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Joined: May 2014
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Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2014
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I have a 52 styleline deluxe 58000 miles. Just through enginereplacing only gaskets and seals. can' get timing cover to quit leaking oil at thebolt on the bottom that threads into rod cap. Anyone got any ideas?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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First by "rod cap" I amsure you mean't front main bearing cap. The bolts on tne bottom of the timing cover that are accessed fron inside of the engine hold the front mounting plate tight against the front main bearing cap and the timing cover to the plate. The front mounting plate gasket seals between the two. This can cause a leak if the bolts are loose or the gasket bad. We used to remove the front cap and seal the area with non-harding Peramatex.
This means removing the pan again.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: May 2014
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Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2 |
Yes you're right the front bearing cap. I've taken off the cover and replaced the gasket twice now. The second time I put gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, cleaned both mating surfaces real good and made sure screws and the 2 bolts on the bottom were good and tight. Also, while I had the cover off I made sure there was no deforming around the bolt holes. Still getting a pretty bad oil leak at the bottom right bolt hole on the cover. So I should pull off the oil pan and put gasket sealer on the front main bearing cap? I noticed the bolt holes on the timing cover are threaded should I put any kind of sealer on these threads?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
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THE TWO LOWER BOLTS ARE ONLY ACCESSABLE FROM INSIDE THE ENGINE. SOME BUTCHERS MAKE A CHANGE AND TAP THE FRONT MAIN BEARING BOLT OPENINGS AND RUN THE BOLTS IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE SO THE COVER CAN BE REMOVED WITHOUT DROPPING THE PAN. HAS THIS BEEN DONE TO YOUR ENGINE?
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Feb 2008
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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THE TWO LOWER BOLTS ARE ONLY ACCESSABLE FROM INSIDE THE ENGINE. SOME BUTCHERS MAKE A CHANGE AND TAP THE FRONT MAIN BEARING BOLT OPENINGS AND RUN THE BOLTS IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE SO THE COVER CAN BE REMOVED WITHOUT DROPPING THE PAN. HAS THIS BEEN DONE TO YOUR ENGINE? I have not done this procedure, but, if this procedure allows the timing cover to be removed, without disturbing the oil pan, what is the objection, if any, in doing this.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I am not sure as I have never done it either. The main thing is the timing cover must be pressed against the front of the nounting plate gasket and the front main bearing cap must be pressed against the rear of the mounting plate.
The original set-up did all of this and he may be getting the seepage from the oil leaking at the rear of the mounting plate to front of main bearing cap area.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Feb 2008
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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I am not sure as I have never done it either. The main thing is the timing cover must be pressed against the front of the nounting plate gasket and the front main bearing cap must be pressed against the rear of the mounting plate.
The original set-up did all of this and he may be getting the seepage from the oil leaking at the rear of the mounting plate to front of main bearing cap area. OK, I understand your concern.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 293 Likes: 2
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 293 Likes: 2 |
Gene
I tapped the two lower bolt holes on the main bearing cap some three overhauls ago (about 270,000 miles) on my '40 216 and have never had a leak. 'course I did put a good coat of "pooky" on each side of the gasket where it interfaced with the main bearing cap. It came in handy one time when I changed the timing gear along-side Route 66 in Needles on a cross-country run from Jacksonville to San Diego when I was in the Navy. It sounds like something is seriously mis-aligned, warped or bent.
Mike
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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It sounds like something is seriously mis-aligned, warped or bent. That was my exact thinking. Have rebuilt a bunch of old Chevy 6s and can't remember one that leaked between cover and block. Have had to straighten particularly the bolt holes so the cover would fit tight.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Mike,
I agreee with you won't say it can't be done but like every thing else it must be done correctly.
Regards,
Gene
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 46 |
I realize this is an old thread but I just replaced the cam bearing in my 216 and am in the process of slowly putting things back together.
I'm considering drilling/tapping main bearing cap, but not sure it it is feasible in my situation as the engine is still in the car, so I really don't have room to do any drilling (other than the timing cover) which is out of the car. Can I just run a tap through the front plate into the cam bearing cap? If so, what size tap would I use? (I borrowed a large brass punch from my neighbor to install the the new timing gear on the crank, but want to address the the cam bearing tap issue before installing the crank timing gear)
Also, speaking of drilling/tapping, is it advisable to drill/tap the front crank prior to re-installing harmonic balancer, or can I pound it on with a big block of wood and a hammer without damaging engine? (I assume I shouldn't heat harmonic balancer)
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
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Your method of installing the damper is the accepted procedure. Use of heat is not recommended.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 476 |
Survivor40Coupe,
If you do tap the two lower timing cover bolt holes, I recommend using a 3/8-24 NF tap. Be sure to take care to thoroughly remove all chips from the tapping operation, and put Permatex thread sealant on the bolt threads prior to installing them.
Regarding the crankshaft drilling/tapping, I hate hammering on a precision machine, so I have drilled and tapped the front crankshaft snout on all my 216 motors, which allows me to install the crankshaft timing gear and the harmonic balancer using a wrench instead of a hammer. I use a 7/16-20 NF tap and go about 1-1/2" deep. I have done mine in a drill press, with the crankshaft out of the engine, but it could probably be done satisfactorily with an electric drill and the engine in place (assuming the front of the car is removed). Getting the hole as straight as possible would be the biggest challenge. It doesn't have to be dead-on straight, since it's only function is to mount the puller stud, but it should be as straight as you can get it.
Mark
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