VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '31 Front Motor mounting bolt

As some recall I have the reinforcing plate placed on top of front cross member for my '30 motor in '31 chassis, rather than below crossmember, causing engine to be out of level. Today I drained/loosened rad and began process of slipping reinforcing plate out (jacked front of engine 1/8") so I could put it where it belongs. I see parts book calls for "front motor support stud" (1/2"-20x2"),and a nut, plain washer and lockwasher. Anyone know what this "stud" looked like?

Mine had a plain washer, lock washer and a castle nut with cotter underneath, and the stud end was drilled for the cotter pin, all that is OK, and came apart fine.

However, the stud protrudes 1.5" through bottom of crossmember and needs to be tapped up and out of the hole in crossmember in order to remove the reinforcing/spacer. I have posted a photo at left of top of this "stud"? Note what appears to be star like serrations around perimeter. This is a most difficult spot to get to let alone take a photo.

My problem is although the threaded part of the stud fron below will wiggle a bit, it will not move up out of hole. I tapped it pretty good with an 8 oz hammer, but nothing moved. Also tried turning it to see if it screwed out but nothing moves. My concern is not to damage anything crucial.

The thought occured that whoever did this engine replacement 50+ years ago may have spot welded the stud in place to prevent it turning? If such is the case, any suggestions? Or were these intended to be a tight fit and I need go to a heavier hammer?

The alternative of course is to discconnect a lot of stuff and lift back of motor at same time and eventually get it high enough (2 " or so)to allow spacer to be slipped out.

Oh the joys of restoring old cars, gRRRRR! Any suggestions?

I've now had a further look at this front engine mount connection. I now realize that the 1/4" strap shown in a previous photo which takes same shape as front engine plate is in fact also a non-original piece, and is welded to the front edge of engine plate. So this means that whoever did this job 50+ years ago added 1/2+ to hieght of engine at front by introducing these 2 thick pieces. And they and the mounting stud seem to be welded together.

So what now? I can I suppose raise the back of engine and front together until the stud clears the spacer and pull it out. Any issues with that (other than disconecting starter, exhaust pipe etc?) Then I could put 1/4" spacers at each rear engine mount and that would make engine about level. Anyone got a better idea??

The front engine mount plate should have a 3/8 thick steel plate section welded into the lower flange (upper side). It is threaded to accept the 1/2' diameter stud. The stud is a very tight fit from the factory. If the front mounting stud has become loose due to engine vibration, both the front engine mount and front cross member can wear thin or wear through, which sounds like what has happened in your case. I have seen other repairs that weld the stud in place on the top side also.

Yes it looks as though a previous owner bastardized something to suit by welding a 1/4"x 1" wide strip along lower lip of mounting plate and then welded a stud to that, and lowered engine into crossmember, also adding a further 1/4"+ spacer, thus raising front only of motor about 9/16".

So my only option I think is to do as described above. A friend has a motorcyclye jack with a broad flat jacking spot, and so on Monday the plan will be to put it under engine using a hardwood board against pan, find center of gravity (balance point) and gently jack motor up sufficiently (while supporting it laterally) to remove the extra front spacer, and to install 1/4" spacers at each rear mount. This should just about put engine in proper angle to chassis. I hope oil pan can take the load, which will likely be 400-500 lbs or so.

As motor sits now, it has at least 1/2"-9/16" extra tilt towards rear. By the time this angle of tilt gets back to UJoint area (another 2') the U-joint ball is about 1"-1.25" lower than it should be, meaning all along the alignment of these components with propellor etc has been way off. By doing it as I propose, tilt will be close to correct, but drivetrain will be 1/4" higher in chassis than factory. Not much else I can do except look for a good/new front engine mounting plate, and go through all the effort of replacing this one (pulling harmonic balancer, drive gears, etc, etc. Don't want to do that now. GRRRRR

Gunsmoke , I have emailed a picture to you of the mounting plate showing the 3/8" plate and threaded hole.

There is a plate spot welded to the top side of the front mounting plate. The 1/2-20 stud is crimped into that plate. It is not intended to be removed. It is common for the stud to loosen from engine vibration and flexing of the front cross member over the past 80+ years. Not exactly sure why it is so long that it requires a plate between the nut and cross member. Also requires a special long slotted nut so the cotter pin hole aligns with the slots. I have had to put extra spacers above the nut when I don't have that special slotted one.

Thanks Chipper and for the photo Jack. The photo Jack sent shows the original bolt was screwed through a threaded reinforcing plate on top of the mounting plate. As I understand it, in order to spread strain and minimize crossmember flexing, a second reinforcing plate was to go under the crossmember and then the washers and long castled nut and cotter pin.

It appears the top reinforment was cut out on mine and a 1/4" steel reinforcement welded in and a bolt/stud welded to that etc. Other than raising motor slightly, there is not much consequence I guess. So my plan is as mentioned above.

Today I readied the car for jacking the motor tomorrow. No big deal, just remove carb, disconn fuel line, take out toe boards and front floor boards and mats, remove starter pedal and accelerator pedal, disconnect clutch and brake pedals and remove all, disconn temp gauge line at head, back off one cowl pad screw near head, take off rad hoses (after draining rad), remove side pans (makes it easier to access stuff), disconn battery, remove rear mounting bolts(I put in 3" longer temporarily to keep everything aligned wile raising motor), made shims for rear mounts, made 14"x8x1.25" oak hardwood lifting plate to go up against oil pan and spread load)and disconnected exhaust from manifold: Did I say exhaust, yes I am exhausted! Time for a cold one.

Just to finish this thread off, completed the lifting of engine and removing front spacer and adding one 3/16" spacer at easch rear mount points as discussed above. Now have it bolted down firmly and putting all the components back on, hope to fire it up tomorrow. Jacking with a standard hydraulic jack and using a hardwood board against pan worked great, thanks for that advice. However it is a two person job in order to get front hole lined up to set it back down.