VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1934 rear engine mounts (in 1928 chassis)

Once again i need your assistance.

I'm looking for new rear engine mounts (rubber parts) for a 1934 engine. Note the engine is in a 1928 chassis. I've been through the parts available at The Filling Station but they apparently don't have these parts.

It could be the engine mounts are modified and the rubber parts therefore are from another car/truck.

Passenger side:
Note the rubber cushion below the mount is missing in the picture. It's just a rectangular piece of rubber - se pictures from drivers side.



Drivers side:
It says "Andre Rubber Co - England" on the part.
The rubber section measure approx. 7x5x3 cm.

If I'm reading this right! Your putting a 34 master engine in a 28? If correct there is now 34 motor mounts will work for you! The frame is not setup to take them.

I have NOS rear motor mounts for a 1934 master model car. If that is what you want E-mail me ; bwbugay@aol.com

If you are putting a 6-cylinder in a,28 4-cylinder frame, tell us about it and pictures if possible.

Thanks for the swift responses.

I can see I haven't described what I need accurately enough

The engine was mounted in the car ~60-70 years ago. The engine has been removed to have an major overhaul.

What I'm looking for is only the rubber bushing between the engine mounts and the chassis. It's shown in the last picture above. It's basically two flat metal plates with a rubber insert in between.

But from doing a little more research it seems it's not an Chevy part. So they've probably modified the engine mounts and found a standard rubber bushing to use.

I'll try to post some more (and better) pictures when the engine goes back in. Though it will be a while since it's still winter here.

There's a few older pictures here:
https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/54044/1928_convertible

The engine was put back into the car during Easter. I've uploaded a couple of pictures of the engine mounting points:
http://s144.photobucket.com/user/svksvk/library/ChevyEngine

We had quite a fiddly job making spacers for the clutch since the clutch plate was replaced. And a hard job cranking the engine for start the first time. It was very hard to crank and the electrical starter was barely able to crank it over. Finally we managed to start it by hand.

The engine has been running really good until now. Timing was adjusted and valves after having run the engine a short trip.

Unfortunately today the engine seized :-(

After approx 1 hours of driving (max. 60 km/h) while coasting (in gear) down a hill the engine started to engine breake heavily. Clutch in and the engine stopped immediately. No funny noises or anything.

The engine is now seized. It's absolutely impossible to crank over. It seems we need to take all out again and send it to the engine builder :-(

Oil has been checked every single time the car has been started and there's an oil pressure gauge in the cabin. Not sure exactly what metric it is (bar/psi etc.). Starting from cold oil pressure goes out of scale (30+) and with hot engine (eg. 40-50 degrees celsius oil temp.) the pressure gauge shows between 5-10. Exactly the same as before the rebuild.

Engine oil is Castrol Classic XL30.

SVK....you need to find in EUROPE a sheet rubber supplier and either buy a block of rubber , hopefully in the thickness that you need, or you will have to get strips and stack them together to make your block. Buy enough to do both mounts.

Drill the holes or use gasket hole punches thru the rubber and then bolt together.. Drilling holes in sheet rubber is not as easy as it sounds.

If those two bolts shown in the pictures with what looks like safety wire holes in them do work........use mechanics safety wire to make sure they do not come undone.. Google how to correctly do safety wiring.

mike lynch

Did you use aluminum pistons on the rebuild? If so were the skirts split? What you describe is typical for aluminum pistons that are not properly fitted. Because they expand more than cast iron the gap between piston and cylinder wall needs to be 0.001"-0.002" more gap then cast iron. If too tight they will seize when hot engine slows down.

@Mike: Sorry it didn't comment on that. Was a little bit to frustrated about the engine. I did exactly what you suggested and have purchased a standard rubber bar with steel plates on both sides. Width and height was as needed. Length to be cut - no problem. I haven't made them yet since the bar was delivered somewhat later than the engine. But they are swappable with the engine in.

@Chipper: Yes it's aluminum pistons ordered via The Filling Station. They're made by Egge. Piston rings are from Grant (also via The Filling Station). Both parts ordered by spec from the engine builder.

What is the typical case when this happens? The engine has to be tore down again and bored/honed? I'm guessing there's no way we can do anything our selves?

I can't recall if the skirts are split. I can't really see it on the pictures.

I suspect that the piston to cylinder gap was not wide enough. You can take the engine apart and check for galling on the pistons. That is a clear sign that they were too tight. Some aluminum pistons need to be have the skirt split and others not. Depends on the type of construction and alloy used. If you are lucky you can hone the cylinders and clean up the pistons and put back together. I would ask the Filling Station and Egge for piston gap recommendations if they were not included with the new pistons.

If you disassemble the engine, measure the ring gap, a very important chore, and can cause problems.

Thanks to both of you for the swift response.

I'm going to call the engine builder Monday to hear their response. I'm thinking it's the best having them fix it. They received the parts incl. papers etc. which I expect included the specs for both pistons and rings.

If not I'll contact the Filling Station for that information.

An extra question: How do you release a stuck piston(s) if that is the case?

If the the problem is galled piston(s), typically they have to be pounded out. Not a pleasant situation. Rarely when the engine cools the piston will release. Good luck. Ray is correct that insufficient piston ring gap will lock an engine. In that case cooling down will most often release particularly if the spark plugs are removed and an ounce of MMO or ATF is poured into each cylinder. It is a good idea no matter what the problem proves to be.