VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Trucks and Vans 1936 1 1/2 ton Low Roof Semi Lots of Pics

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO DAM SWEET!!!!!!!!

I would be SOOOOOOOOOOOO flattered if he was referring to my truck. The truth is, he just saw the pics of my Brothers '40 COE school bus.

Mike

The truck data book says tire changing iron for 3/4 ton and heavy duty equipment.The 3/4 ton touck ton truck also came with a 3000 pound jack....smaller trucks had a 2500 pound jack.
The 1 1/2 ton came with a 5500 pound jack.

The Barn is almost gone.

Yesterday My Dad got the the Fruehauf out of what is left. when they started taking it apart the shoved all the hay that was still in the loft out in front of the exit path so it was not easy to get to.

And then it was gone.

I am an official VCCA member! My Dad surprised me with a membership and my member number is 50,000. How cool is that!!

I am going to have to set aside some time to go threw all of the member photos.

Congrats Sam on your surprise Milestone!!! Enjoy your "full fledged" status here on Chat.

Way to go, Sam!!! Did he wait this long just to get you the special number??!! I couldn't think of a more deserving way to give it out, other than to a next generation member!

Thanks Guys. I already made a new VCCA friend when I called to see if there were any local meetings here in NC that I could attend.

The weather in MO has been nasty this winter so the truck has stayed in while the white stuff is on the ground. I know that the LED tail light project is getting close so when every thing is buttoned up on that I will let everyone know.

You can tell the weather must turing in Mo because my Dad got his one of his LED tail lights finished. Looks like it will be a major improvement and make the truck a bunch safer out on the road. I will get to visit Mo in a few weeks and am looking forward to seeing the truck and messing with wagon.

There will be some more pictures of the light it's self coming.

This is tail lights only in day light.


Here are the brake lights.

LED tail lights are on my list to install on my 37.

Talked to my Dad last night and he got his gas gauge working finally. A new repop sender seems has done the trick. He tried a couple of original units and could not get them to work for long or at all. Lets hope that this crosses off the gas tank from the list permanently.

I am looking forward to My Visit to MO for spring break coming up. It will be fun to help get the tail lights finished up.

Who sells a repro sending unit,my 37 needs one since it reads all over the place. Fill it up and it only goes to 3/4 and when then fuel in the tank actually gets below a 1/4 the gauge starts to read back towards 1/2 again,when it reads 1/4 to 3/8 its time to put more gas in it.

I think it is from The Filling Station.

I think that this is the one you need. CLICK

Yep, the Filling Station sells them. Check out their catalog.

Chevs of the 40s also sells one for 20 dollars less that has a adjustable arm,was that one from the Filling station a drop in and go unit or did it have to be adjusted.

The float assembly I bought from FS is a drop in. It is made by Bob Drake, one of the best reproduction Ford parts guys. FS buys it and modifies it, they told me.
It does not have an authentic appearance but no one sees it but me.

Mike

Since I sold a car I have some extra money and will be buying one along with a heater motor,does the gauge seem to be reading accurate.

The tank is half full measuring with a stick. Gauge shows a little under 3/8. I have not driven the truck since the install so I don't know how it will read at empty or full.

Mike

Well I had a great time on our spring break visit to MO. I spent a day at the shop with my dad and I played with the truck while Dad did real work.

This was the first time I had seen the truck on it's new rubber and painted wheels. they really look sharp on the truck and have made a big difference in how well the truck drives.





The first task was to finish up the tail lights. The kit is supplied with a lens for the license light but it was not going to fit in the grommet.

I decided that I would flip it over and super glue it to the to edge of the grommet. This seemed to work well and unless someone looks under there it will not be seen. My Dad did a great job of recreating the fiber board that is riveted to the back of the lamp.









I got them together after some fitting and trial and error. They really look nice and from the outside you would be hard pressed to tell any thing had been done to them. They really look good and are way safer than the OG setup.

The screws that hold on the door panels have been loose and missing screws for quite a while and it was no the list of things to get fixed. The screws were missing because the threads were gone out of the door and that let them fall out over time. The best solution seemed to be installing RivNuts. This really worked like a charm and if anyone is looking for a good fix for this problem we would recommend it.

First you drilled out the bad hole oversized, then you installed the RivNut with a tool like a pop rivet gun and squeezed until it was good and tight. The finished product is a great set of strong steel threads.






And last we got the the heater for the truck back together with a NOS Motor and core. It is going to look right at home!













He is hoping to get the heater in the truck soon and as soon as an appropriate switch is found that will go in too.

Then it would be nice to install the kick panels and floor mat. It should be ready for some summer fun.

Correction, Sam. No NOS motor. I found a used motor which seems to run pretty good.
I am still looking for a new motor. The size is pretty specific. If anyone has a potential candidate, let me know.

Mike

Dad drove the truck home for work last night and my Mom snapped some pictures of the new lights.

Tail



Brake

The heater was in and then right back out. While the truck was at home last weekend he bolted the heater onto firewall but did not hook up the hoses or wiring. The thought was that it could just ride around in its rightful place until it got hooked up. As soon as he headed out in the truck the heater doors started rattling like crazy.

It seems as if the heater has pointed out a bad vibration in the cab that is amplified by the heater. This shows up even at low speed so when we were talking about it we decided it has to be engine related and not do to tire or drive shaft balance as the vibration is present even are very low speed.

The truck being a ton and a half has solid rear motor mounts so it seems like any vibrations from the motor could easily be transferred. We are a little worried that what ever is doing it could cause a failure at some point so it would be nice to figure out what it is.

Dad thought that with the heater hooked up with the hoses and having the core filled with fluid it may alleviated the shaking. Even if it does the vibration will still be there. Truck ran well otherwise.

Any thought from the brain trust on this one?

On monday morning when my Dad was going to move the 36 out of his shop and thought he would try and see where the tightness and slop in the steering was. He pulled off the drag link to isolate if the problem is in the column/box or the font end.

While turning the steering wheel back and forth he managed to run the sector off the end of the worm and locked it up. No amount of twisting would free it up. So it had to come out and come apart, turns out the tightness was the sector being dry and galled in the bushing. When he took it apart the bushing came out with the sector.

So he has all of the parts to put it back together with all new parts, the stuff that came out was in rough shape so I know that it will make a big difference in the way it drives.

While the floor is out of the truck he is hoping to replace the bake and clutch pedal bushings and button up all of the floor stuff so that the floor mat can go in and stay in .

One question on the steering box for the gurus out there, is there supposed to be something that keeps the grease from from going up the column when you are pumping fresh grease in the box threw the zerk? it seems like there should be something that forces the grease out the pitman shaft to lube it? any thoughts.

I am sure Dad will chime in if I goofed up any details.