VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Installing new wood

I'm getting ready to install new wood in the roof of my 32, 4 door sedan. I have all the books that are helpful. My question is can the the bows and side rails (everything but the slats) be put together then put in place? This seems like a good plan as the entire car is striped out. Any thoughts out there or has anyone tried this?

Thanks for any help as the resto continues.

When I was taking my 32 4 dr apart, I removed the entire roof as an assembly (2 people makes it alot easier). I took the assembly out thru the top. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the info. When you put it back I assume you did the reverse? Thanks again for the info.

I've been re-assembling my '31 sedan for about 16 months. I was told to use old fashioned cloth electrical friction tape on most all of the interfaces between wood or steel brackets and the steel body skin as well as other places. So far it's working really well - great stuff. Home Depot, Grainger and good hardware stores still sell it. I'm using 3M brand.

Good luck,

Happy Motoring!

I'm also reassembling my wood in my 32 and I'm also using the cloth friction tape as well as 15 lb roof felt.

I spoke to Jim Rodman about friction tape and he told the best way was to use a spray on liner protector (rubber type) that you can buy almost anywhere. He says this is the method and the workers of the past would have loved the stuff. It works and stays in place for ever. The only draw back is make sure its completely dry before you put the parts together. It the best super glue you can get.

That's taking advice from a man that's been at this for a long time. So he ought to know. I put my money on Jim. He's a wealth of knowledge.

Quick question from the original post, regarding the helpful books replacing on the wood. What book are out there for tech advice on replacing the wood and re-securing the steel body to it. I need to do this for a 32 and am having some difficulty

Did you check out this book?

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/category/10/Classified_Ads_for_All_Years

--Bill Barker

About the only book out there on wood is the 1926-31 Fisher Body Manual. Purchase the 1932 Fisher Body Manual supplement as well.

There is a book titled "Tips on auto body woodwork" by Don Marsh which covers a lot of woodwork including manufacturing tips .It appears on ebay every now and then, not there at the moment . but here is a link to a previous item.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171270831298

The Fisher book is the only book I have. If you buy your replacement wood from Jim and study the book it begins to make since. The problem with my 32 was the last restoration was very poor and the wood that was installed was not correct. To bad there is not a supplier of the nails. I found a Ford site that supplied some but they are larger than the ones Chevy used.

I had bought a Fastener Kit for my '34 Master from Auto Hardware Specialties . It had a list of instructions on the order and fashion of assembling the wood with it. While their kits start with 1933, it might be something to look into. I might even try to find those instructions and either scan/email them to you or copy/post them

I have been working on my 31 sedan and when it took mine apart i kinda blue printed all the measurements.My car was almost complete.So when I put my top bows I built the front and rear first,then the side rails,then all the bows.But looking at mine right now don't see any problems if your metal is off the wood.buy the way I used old backpacks and cut them up I felt just like what was in the car?you can pm me and I will fax you the paper I drew up I might help

A copy of those instructions would be great. One of the difficulties I am having is installing the screws in the brackets at the base of the frame. The body sheet metal is in the way

In areas that are not accessible to install screws it may be necessary to weld in tee nuts and install the screws from the outside. That is a tip I got from an instruction manual written by Don Marsh. There is also a specialty tool that can be used to install a threaded insert if in an area that you do not want to weld in.

Now know this is hand drawn so give me a number and I will send it to you.I'll see if I can post it,not very good at that.pic;s are allways to big?

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I bought that book and as far as I am concerned its a waste of money !!! I have no idea what I have done with the book and where it is. The fisher body book is much better.

mike..................

You have to understand how the car was assembled.........they build the wood frame and then nail and screw the sheet metal to the wood.

mike

Originally the Tee nuts installed in the wood had nails in 4 places to stop them spinning. The new style Tee nuts have 4 angled teeth and are driven into the wood from below, but unless you have the wood out you cannot install these.

If you cannot get to some screws because the sheet metal is in the way , your other choice would be to use long bolts right thru the wood and thru the steel car frame with a lock nut and washers top and bottom.

You do not want to be welding nutserts in with vintage wood right there, that's asking for trouble and is totally unnecessary.

mike.................

In the booklet I referenced the example was a 32 door. All wood was removed and the photo looks to be of the lower part. I agree somewhat about welding where there is vintage wood, but shielding the wood and using a mig should be pretty quick and safe. The tee nuts only need to be tacked in place. The ideal would be to use a nutsert which goes in same as a rivet and is crimped in place. That tool however is not something the average hobbyist will have. The front roof bow in my car was replaced and both sides of the roof were opened to access the screws and then welded back together. It can be done but does require some caution and careful prep. A helper with a fire extinguisher standing by isn't a bad idea either.

The "Tips On Auto Body Woodwork" booklet is as the title suggest-tips. It is not an A-Z instruction manual, but does have "tips" for fabricating some wood parts. I agree the Fisher Body Manual is a must have, but don't think there is any way to compare the two.

This book also covers wood body repair and replacement.
Automotive Woodworking , by Roland Johnson.

http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Automotive_Woodworking.html?id=UbEizYruK5wC