VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood 1936 Chevy Door Wood

Hello to All

I'm new to this in fact this is my first post. I am attempting to restore a 1936 Chevrolet Master 2 Door Model FA. Presently I'm replacing the wood in the doors and wanted to ask a couple of questions. First, does anyone have an opinion if the new wood should be sealed with with some sort of varnish or lacquer. Second should the wood be wrapped or coated with some sort of fabric or tape to prevent squeaking. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Welcome aboard. I've never done anything on a 1936 but the 1933 & 1934 doors have no anti squeak in the doors. As for sealing the wood, that's up to you. As you know it wasn't sealed when the car was new. From what I can see is it did get some paint, like over spray when the car was painted. The wood builders will tell you to use a good spar varnish to protect it. You live in an area of high humidity. That might be a factor for what you do....Joe

Welcome fellow 36'er!

I suppose it does depend on the conditions where you're at... My standard spent it's whole life around MI with enough salt and water to eat the rockers out of the body, but the wood is still solid. I'm not replacing any wood framework but I would coat it with a thin varnish if I were. I would think that anything sealing out moisture after the wood has dried would be a good thing.

Thanks Guy's

I never thought about the humidity factor. I will be coating it with something.

Tom

I used EPIFANES VARNISH, its made in Holland and most wood working sites the top guys recommend it. Also the wood boat building guys. First coat is diluted 50%, 2nd coat is 25% , third coat is 20%. The varnish is $50 a quart here and the thinner is about $15.00 I used those plastic mixing cups from the automotive paint store to do the measurements . It cleans up with lacquer thinners for your quality brushes.

You might be able to buy it online, just google the name and see whats there. Boat repair place bottom of my street stocks it. You can always buy cheaper products. This stuff blocks 90% UV light .

While rewooding my 35 std roadster I wanted it to last and last.

mike lynch.........

Personally, I would avoid any film type product. Wood lasts best when it is able to breathe, i.e. absorb some moisture when humidity is high, and dry out when air is dry. Most film type finishes risk trapping moisture in the wood with the resulting rot implications. Ship masts are exceptions of course due to extreme exposure.

If you want it to be more protected than natural, then liberally apply some tung oil or other similar product intended to restore some of the wood's natural protective oils. For years, horsemen only applied oil to the spokes of their wagon wheels, and the spokes lasted for decades in all kinds of weather. Once they began painting them, (and were unable to prevent moisture from getting in through the ends), the spokes rotted in no time as waterv got trapped behind the film.

Most of the wood (ash) I replaced in my '31 Coach I left natural.

All of the wood in my car I left natural too. However, if you must apply something to your wood, use a preservative that soaks into the wood and not a film that covers the wood.