VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood How to use filler

The rear spare wheel carrier on my 31 sport coupe is in pretty good condition but has a few spots from rust that are not very deep and could use some filler to smooth out. I have never had an opportunity to use filler before. My questions are 1) can I use the filler over primer that is recently applied and in good condition or do I need to take it down to bare metal. 2) what type of filler to use. Can I use the stuff sold at the local auto parts store (Pep Boys or Advance). They seem to carry only one type for use on metal (and then another for use on fiberglass).
I would like to try this on my own instead of taking it to the body shop.
Thanks for any pointers and recommendations.
Jim.

What you need here is hi build primer and sand/scuff it down until the pock marks are visible in the primer. Then take 2 part SPOT PUTTY filler, mix a small bit of it with the supplied hardener. Let it get hard and shrink any if its going to for 12 hours.

Then sand smooth and prime over it again. use a spray bomb of black primer and dust a coating over it and let dry properly. Now sand the area again with 240 paper with a block till all the black primer is gone. If the black primer is still showing as a LOW SPOT, add more spot putty and sand again until satisfied its no longer pock marked.

No need to BONDO or WHITE LIGHTNING it up.

If satisfied, prime it again lightly & sand or dry sand with 400 grit, wipe down with silicon wax polish and grease remover, the oils on your hands contaminate the surface, then wipe surface before painting with a tack cloth to remove any dust on the surface.

mike lynch

Always check the instructions from the manufacturer. If you already have a primer on then view the information from the supplier of that product. It can usually be found on the container of the product, and also online. Some primers are not compatible with certain types of fillers or paints, such as acid etch primers.

Mike and Steve, thank you for the great instructions and information. Time for me to start reading the instructions before I jump into the project. I like the idea of not using Bondo. The less the better.

Jim.

shallow pock marks are easily filled like I described using primer and mostly 2 part spot putty.

I am not a fan of cake making bondo bodywork either, but it seems like that's all that's used in most body shops anymore. They get a stainless trowel when they graduate from the house of bondo school. More easy to just slap it on, fire up the cheese graters and then the air powered file boards.

The 35 Chevrolet roadster I am working on had it 1/2" thick on the homemade rumble seat lid, a further 3/8--1/2 thick on the front fenders and the rears, never mind the 1/4--1/2" thick tar undercoating liberally applied inside the quarter panels and under the fenders to hide what they had done.

I think they are graduates of a clown school.

mike lynch NOT !