Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#301974 02/24/14 12:03 PM
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Nkopp Offline OP
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I have a 32 chevy pan I am trying to save. It had water condensation in it for years which caused some rust through spots. I had them brazed, but the pan kept warping, and hairline cracking causing three small leaks. I soldered them on the outside where it leaked, and it holds water now. But I would like to apply something to the inside to do more sealing.
Any guidance?
Thanks, Norm

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A couple of blobs of JB Weld on the inside will do the trick.

Cheers, Dean


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Gas tank sealer would be a great solution.


Agrin devil


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I would not dare to use that in the pan. At least if it's in the tank and fails then the car doesn't run. Don't want to think of the damage it could cause in the "lube" system.


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Which is most likely to compromise the sealer, gas or oil?

Gas tank sealer has many uses. When assembling a 4-cylinder engine for example I dip every bolt that fits in a through hole with the gas tank sealer. Basically, the sealer is a glue, so it can be used in many places as a glue.

Agrin devil


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

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That's certainly interesting to know. my concern would be the heat in the oil pan as gas tanks don't get that hot. If it works for you that's great, but I don't like experimenting with something as valuable as an engine. I don't know which product you are using, but maybe the Mfg. could use the info. As for glue I know someone that assembled some wood parts on a 32 incorrectly and didn't realize it until the glue had set. He called the Mfg. and they advised to use a heat gun and he was able to get it apart. Usually when a product is advertised for a particular purpose it has been tested. I'd rather the Mfg. do the testing than me as my pockets are very shallow. If the sealer did come loose and plug off the oil supply causing total engine seizure do you think the "gas tank" sealer Mfg. will warranty the engine?


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I agree with your analysis of the use of gas tank sealer. Most sealers are room temperature cured PVC. The heat stability of PVC is very poor, when the temperature reaches 140 °C (284 °F) PVC starts to decompose. Its melting temperature is 160 °C. It also softens not too far above the boiling point of water. That is why CPVC (chlorinated PVC) is used for hot water piping versus PVC for cold water lines. Sorry for the chemistry lesson but in this case I feel it is important.


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Surely there is a suitable, good, used oil pan out there somewhere.

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Temp wise silicone would be great, but it won't stick. Polyurethane has a use temp up around 250 deg F, and sticks well. What about those truck bed spray on liners? It doesn't need to be thick, just flexible, sticks, withstands temp, not deteriorate by oil. And don't cover the whole inside. Just overlap the potential leak spot.

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I'd quit while your ahead...I've soldered gas tanks before and never had problems after that...


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In your situation I would throw the pan in the scrap metal bin and acquire another. I know the 32 pans are probably rare as rocking horse droppings but I would not trust any repair.
Tony


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I have repaired several oil pans with rust penetration. First used brazing but recently all were welded. MIG wire machines do a great job on sheet metal as they don't heat as much and warp the metal. The key is to get all the pits welded. Recently we fixed a pan with 20+ holes. Took sand blasting and three different welding sessions to find and fix all the holes or almost holes. Pan is solid and dry as a bone on the outside. Cleaning and probing any suspect spot is key to finding all the holes or weak spots.


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A friend had the same problem with his 216 pan. We were on a road trip when the problem became obvious. It was drained, seeping oil cleaned off and JB weld applied. This was 3 years ago and all is still okay.

glyn #302073 02/25/14 06:04 PM
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That's a very nice appearing pan. I'll bet it goes for a lot more than where it's at right now. ($44.95)


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That's what it sold for and only one bid, so someone missed out on a great deal if they really needed one, and they are rare as previously stated.

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It should be delivered here tomorrow. Mine needed painting so this was easier.


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Thanks to Chevrolet6 for the tip on the oil pan. It arrived yesterday and is every bit as nice as the photo posted in the link above. Not one ding and the paint is perfect! I really did wait until the last minute as I know the tip was for NKOPP, but with no bids posted it was just too good to pass up.


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Steve, Yu dun guud! 'Glad you got it!


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