VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood Paint Body with Rust-oleum?

Anyone try it?
Howd' it work?

Paint a body with Rustoleum? Really? I'm not so sure that I would even paint a wheelbarrow with that stuff.

I buy it by the gallon and use a 3 inch roller to get that "orange peel" effect...

Care to elaborate a bit?

I think he means he hasn't had lasting quality results...Even on his iron lawn furniture...

Thanks Kevin. I suspected as much. I, on the other hand have had excellent long term results. I just have not attempted to do any quality work with it. Was hoping that someone here had. (I was expecting to get some flack and knee jerk responses)
Wasn't disappointed either. LOL

Depends on what your using it for...I've found it does chip easily...For a few bucks more you can get better all purpose paint...A paint store will have better stuff than the hardware store, generally...

Glad you qualified that with "generally"...
I restored my 51 Harley Panhead and unfortunately painted it with PPG. It chips just by looking at it. Gas/Alcohol attacks it.
Was base/clear coat too.
I am going to use Napa's Crossfire single stage this time.

Rustoleum makes what they call commercial paint that goes on very smooth with roller or brush and flows out very well.
Now for the bad part if used directly out of can with out hardener some of the colors fade quickly.
This is what the New York Canal system uses on all the metal equipment.

Would this be the product?
Rustoleum

Alkyd enamels are not as weather resistant, long lasting as acrylic enamels and much less than single stage urethane. All should be applied with catalyst.

You never said whether you wanted to use it exclusively on the inside panels, firewall, fender inners, trunk area, floor panels.

Or whether you wish to paint he outside body sheet metal with it ????

mike lynch...........

Originally I was asking about the outside of the body.
I have used it from rattle cans before for small jobs from inside to outside including Iron lawn furniture. Rattle can paint is way too thin IMHO.
I have also used it in the salt water environment and had ok results. I just have never tried it on large areas.
Thanks Chipper for the tip
Dale

That is the correct link for rustoleum
AL

It can be done!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/

I tried this on a motorcycle tank once, and for $10 I got a hell of a paint job that looked great. The secret is prep, prep and more prep. Then prep again.

Myself I primed the tank and sanded a dozen times until it was smooth. I then waited for a calm day and hung the tank outside so I didn't get any orange paint all over the garage. Sprayed once then let it set for 1/2 hour then gave it another coat. Buffed after a week and put it on the bike... looked factory, no kidding.

I wouldn't do it on a car but I wanted to try it and the results were great.

Interesting' Looks like a lot of work.
Think I may have to go the conventional route tho.
Thanks for posting that.

I would go the conventional route also... wise choice!

See, I wasn't kidding when I said I've done it with a "roller" with good results...lol Folks that had even seen it thought I was kidding, too. When I have time I'm going to do the roof of my truck that way, before it rusts thru...

I found a can of what I used to use with excellent results...It was "Iron Clad Retardo" it's made by Benjamin Moore...About $50-$60 bucks a gallon, and it's used on playground equipment by the city...Goes right over rust w/no prep...Leave it out in the rain and rust won't start coming thru for years...Painted my truck with it and a 3 inch roller, I know this topic is old but I thought I'd pass it along...

Well....
Just finished painting the fenders and all lower sheet metal black.
I used Napas Cross Fire Single stage acrylic enamel.
Chips if you even look at it.
Went from bare metal sanded with 80 grit.
to Etch Primer.
to 2 coats High build Primer.
Wet Block sanded with 600 grit.
One more coat high build primer.
Sprayed guide coat.
Wet Blocked with 600 grit.
Sprayed 3 coats of Cross Fire Black.
Wet Blocked with 1500 grit.
Wet Sanded with 2000 grit
Compounded to high gloss.

NOT happy at all.
Paint chips extremely easily.
Top coat chips down to the primer.

Directions followed exactly.
I do not think that 600 grit is enough tooth for the top coat to stick. Even though the paint is supposed to be a "Chemical bond".

I'm sorry to hear about the chipping problem. I'm wondering if your high build primer was an epoxy 2K primer. Also, on all of the spec sheets with which I have worked, the recommendation is usually to reduce the primer on the last coat, creating what they call a "sealer" which is then followed rather quickly by the finish coats. I'm wondering if the paint you used called for that procedure, and whether, perhaps, epoxy base coats followed by a seal coat followed by the finish coats would have adhered better?

Not sure about this--just wondering and still trying to learn about the pitfalls of painting, but I've sprayed a couple vehicles with a single stage product and haven't had any problem with chipping.

Jim

Believe or not I know guys that paint their cars with rustoleum (usually satin black) but they add a universal hardener to it and are very happy with the results. I personally wouldn't do it other than on a tractor or maybe rat rod but they like it.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.
The primer is a finish 1. It is FUN 15 2.1 2 High build primer.
I know that I used the complete system as instructed. Seal coat is optional.
Just think that one or all parts of this system may be not so desireable.

Would like to contact some of those people that have used rustolenm

"Iron Clad Retardo"...Trust me, you won't be sorry...

I use it on all my machine equipment, too...