VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Cold Start

Hello,
Our 1927 Chevy truck is now fully restored. When the engine is cold, it doesn't start properly. Until then, the battery is empty...
once it is warm, is starts directly..
It seems that this is due to a lack of petrol. If we put a few drops on the candles, it starts also directly.
Is it a problem know on this 4-cyl engine ?
is there a solution ?
Thanks in advance !
Gege

The process that I use to start my '28 is:

1. Fully open the fuel valve at the bottom of the vacuum tank.

2. Put the spark advance lever in the full retard position (when starting, it is important for the spark to happen at top dead center, not before). Correct timing is very important.

3. Open the throttle a little using the throttle lever (I move it to where the engine would do a fast idle)

4. Turn the ignition on

5. Fully pull out the choke

6. Step on the starter switch

My '28 usually starts immediately, but I live in a mild climate (California) and that might help. The engine is never colder than 50 degrees F.

I have found that I need to keep the choke out for a short while after the engine starts and also, I slowly advance the spark to a full advance position (25 degrees before top dead center) and leave it there for driving.

Hope this helps.

Dean

I agree with everything "rustoholic" said but would add one more comet. Place the transmission in neutral with the clutch pedal released (clutch engaged) during cranking. When you push the clutch pedal in (clutch released) the crank shaft becomes loaded axially by the throw out bearing resulting in a lower cranking rpm. Engage the clutch and the cranking rpm increases which will help the starting process. I see someone attempting to start their early Chevrolets with the clutch pedal depressed at almost every event I attend. The procedure just described can be found on page 10 of the 1927 Chevrolet Owners Instruction manual.

Probably because their used to more modern cars, where folks forget to put their cars in neutral before starting...It's for safety reasons...Don't want your car to take off, as soon as you turn the key...

Remember in many of these old cars that the throw out bearing is made of wood impregnated with graphite, lots of friction. It is not a real bearing. Use it sparingly.

Hi, with our '27 Landau, if it has been sitting for a few months (like over the winter) we find that we need to manually add some gas to the Stewart Warner fuel pump. These old fuel pumps sometimes need to be primed. I measure out two cups of gas and then manually add it to the top of the fuel pump by unscrewing the fuel line inlet, and then use a funnel to add it directly into the pump.

Given your truck fires right up when you manually add gas to the cylinders with spark plugs removed, I am guessing this is the same issue you are having. Cranking with choke "should" pump fuel, but if your pump is a bit tired (as ours is), it may need to be primed. A couple cups of fuel into the fuel pump will solve the problem.

Hope this helps.

Chuck64

Also, be sure to shut off the valve at the bottom of the vacuum tank when you shut the engine down over night or longer. Fuel will gradually drain from the reserve fuel tank (the bottom half of the vacuum tank). Making the engine very hard to start.