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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hello all. Been lurking here for a while looking for info on the 29 AB International 4 door sedan that I am in the process of buying. I have a couple of questions for you. The fellow that I am getting this rig from was in the process of a complete rebuild. He has the 1930 engine completely assembled and has not fired it up yet. He says that he sent the rods and block out for re-Babbitt. Says he went 30 over on Aluminum pistons and that the crank was balanced for the light weight pistons. The head was redone with all new parts. Has anyone had any experience with this type of engine mod? How did it work out? I can see where the lighter pistons will be a little easier on the rods and crank simply because of the weight. Wondering how the lighter rotating mass is going to affect power pulses from the firing....etc...
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Hello akdale, Your questions will produce numerous other questions to be able to properly evaluate what you are working with. If you have already purchased the 29 with the 30 engine you must deal with what you have and fire up the engine your self. If others are wanting to buy, they'll be dealing with the same situation. Now, if the engine was running, that means a lot. Are you able to determine who reworked the rods, block and head? Is there information/documentation about the pistons? It all relates to the vehicles history and knowledge of the changes made. Welcome to Chevy Chat. If you post the vehicle and engine numbers, you will learn more of it's history. Respectfully
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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I have a 32 with 30 over aluminum pistons and it runs fine and there is no problem with "power pulses". Keep in mind that modern engines use aluminum pistons and with much higher compression ratios. I would not question the materials used but would check the reputation of the shop that did the work. Glad you have found our site and hope you like what you see. There's a wealth of knowledge available here and even more benefits available by becoming a member of the VCCA.
Steve D
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks for the welcome and responses gentlemen. Glad to hear that the aluminum pistons and lighter crank work well. I am unsure where the Babbitt was done, but the machine work was done by ADB in Anchorage. Very good and reputable Machine shop. They did my 51 Harley Panhead crank and flywheels
engine numbers 835501 b40 12 ser#101457
Can someone decipher the below info please?
5AC 2056
On the firewall JOB# 8850 Body# K 167 Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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5AC 2056 = Car manufactured in Kansas City in 1929 and it was the 1056th car built in that factory in 1929. (Note: Serial numbers started at 1,001). JOB# 8850 = 1929 Standard Sedan Body# K 167 = 167th Standard Sedan built in the Kansas City factory in 1929. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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835501 is the casting number for 1929 and 1930 engine blocks. B 4 0 would be Feb. 4, 1930 casting date (B for 2nd month). 101457 engine serial number. 5 AC 2056 is 1929 passenger car assembled at Kansas City, the first number was 5 AC 1001. 8850 is for a 1929 standard sedan, International series. K 167 is for 167th 8850 body style from that assembly location.
If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks for the Number translation, Good info.
This looks like a great project. The seller has built several Home built composite planes and assembled several engines for them. He is still walking around after years of playing with them so he must be doing something right. He has disassembled the entire car and inspected and rebuilt/replaced/repaired all of the mechanical with the exception of the steering box. The rest of the front end was rebuilt using new parts. All bushings holes and shafts/rods were restored to fit and work with minimal slop. Brakes were re-done but do have old but what appear to be usable linings. I am waiting for him to produce a title before I pay and pick up the car. If he can;t find the title (Never was in his name}, How tough is it to get a title with a Bill Of Sale? Where can I find the vin. no? Thanks I will join the VCCA after I have the car in my hands. I understand that I cannot post pics until then? I do have some good pics.
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Where can I find the vin. no? VIN numbers were not used in 1929. A "Car Serial Number" was used instead. The serial number plate is attached to the passenger side wood main sill, facing the passenger side front door under the rubber floor mat. Since the serial number plate was attached with small nails, due to wood rot and etc. it could be missing. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have a tag that is in very bad condition. I can make out an area that says "International Car Number AC 2056" Does this look like it may be the number in question? I don't have the tag here but I seem to remember that it was aluminum, about 2" X 3.5" in size and appeared that the info on it was screen printed.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I see how the generic info would be printed on, but how was the serial number put on there? It is currently hand written with marker and I am sure that DMV won't like that.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Before you get further into this, you might email the head DMV guy/gal at the state capital as to proceedure for obtaining a title. Their answer, in writing, will not be questioned at the local level plus you will know what is required. Been there, done that.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Before you get further into this, you might email the head DMV guy/gal at the state capital as to proceedure for obtaining a title. Their answer, in writing, will not be questioned at the local level plus you will know what is required. Been there, done that. Thanks. Will do
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks JYD Looks like the fella found the title. Is it normal to only show an engine number on the title? And not have the body number on it?
Last edited by akdale; 03/07/14 12:58 AM.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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You'll be glad you did this (I was). Then, you'll know what you must do (ask for required forms, too). The plus is, no local peon will argue with what the "top dog" has put in an email.
At our local CMV, their favorite thing is to smile sweetly and say, "I'm sorry, you just can't get a title". 'Been bumping heads with 'em for 60 years. On one particular occasion (I had already been told "no"), when I handed the clerk the email, she was immediately mad as "****". However, I walked out with the new title application and a new tag!
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Is it normal to only show an engine number on the title? Yes. Many states back then only listed the engine number on the title and not the car serial number. Some states did issue a title with the car serial number however. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Now to convince alaska dmv of that........
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Got the title...They accepted the motor number as ID.
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Good deal. Glad Alaska is not as "backwoods" as some seem to think.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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LOL----It is not as Backwoods as I would like.... When I came to Alaska, the population in all of Alaska was about 200,000. Now there are more than that in Anchorage. My area is fast catching up.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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'Glad you got things squared away.
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