Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
#300300 01/31/14 10:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
ChatMaster - 1,500
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
For those of you who keep track of such things or care, this new thread here is part of the saga of this poor old '46 Aerosedan I drug home a week or two ago - this string follows up the "Looking at a rough '46" and then "temp fix to oil pan" threads.

So now it holds oil. I also put a spare 6V coil on it, and now I've got hot blue spark at the spark plugs ( a little surprised) - just had to sand the points a little, and change out the coil.

So here's the latest Question: with a gallon of fresh oil now in its belly, using just the Starter and a fresh 6V battery - spark plugs out - should I be able to spin up enough RPMs to get oil up at the rockers? I'm not seeing anything up there. Spun it for quite a while. Of course, it sat with no oil in it for God knows how long, so it has to prime the pump and lines, etc. Just wondering if I should expect to be able to see any oil make it up top using just the Starter?

When that glorious day comes that I actually try to start it up, I could just leave the rocker cover off and watch for oil in the first few seconds. Who knows, the oil pressure gauge might even work and tell me.

Getting close now, but the weekend is shot with a funeral tomorrow and getting taxes done (promised myself that was going to get done on Sunday). Maybe next week I'll work on the fuel system...



Chevy Guru
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
With all things being "normal" the oil pressure gauge shoud show pressure when cranking. On my '50 it will show 2 or 3 pounds (with plugs in) should show at least 5 pounds with plugs removed. Cold oil will probably take a few minutes to get to the rockers as they are fed from the low pressure side of the pressure regulator valve.
Removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump with an eletric drill could be faster but more work.
I would just give it more time spinning with the starter.
What weight of oil did you add?


Gene Schneider
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
ChatMaster - 1,500
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
Just the cheapest NAPA brand 10-W-30. It won't be in there long. I keep my Shop heated to 50-53F. When I get it running good and things sorted, I need to get the engine warmed up good and get it flushed and drained. (Assuming things are in decent enough shape that it all seems salvageable and worthwhile.)


Chevy Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
CG,

A couple of suggestions:

a. NAPA 10w-30 is as good as any other non-synthetic brand. Check the circle on the back of the can. Of course, you will want to change it out after it has run for a little while.

b. While the valve cover is off, fill your squirt gun with Marvel Mystery Oil and give the working parts a good dousing. (don't worry about overfilling it, You're a quart shy anyhow.)

After that you can crank it up. Unless the oil screen is stopped slap up, oil pressure will come up right away and you will see it at the overflow connector and eyes of the rockers.

Good luck,

Charlie computer

Joined: May 2011
Posts: 825
ChatMaster - 750
Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 825
hi there,
I am at present having my rockers refurbished.
When starting the engine with the rocker box removed, I observed that there was NO oil coming from the top hole in the rockers, so the newly fitted and overhauled head upper parts were apparently being starved of lubrication!

Upon investigation I discovered that the rocker bushes were very worn, so much in fact that there was only oil dripping out of the underside of the shaft.
I bought NOS shafts and bushes from TFS and they are at the engine place being fitted, honed in and I expect to have them home later this week for refitting.

So recapping:
Oil MUST come out of the small hole at the top of the rocker to then dribble down and lubricate the valve stems and down the other side, down the push rods into the valve lifters and subsequently onto the camshaft.

Peter

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
ChatMaster - 1,500
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
Thanks for all that, blueyAU, and best of luck getting yours back together and all problems solved. My question was about getting oil up there while spinning up using just the starter, not yet running (which did NOT get oil up to the rockers much if any at all), I was worrying about it prior to attempted start-up after a very long sleep. But now that she's running reasonably well, I've got good flow visible at all the key points up top, and showing a steady 15 pounds on the gauge. See updates in the string entitled "Remember that rough '46 Aerosedan" in the 1946-48 Forum area.


Chevy Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
With the lower hot (idle speed) oil pressure of a 1934-1935 oil may not come out of the top hole of therocker arm at idle.
Should be seen when the engine is reved up.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
ChatMaster - 1,500
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,623
Good oil at the rockers while running at fast idle or above, with excess flow at the middle tube as it should be.

I don't understand the reference to 1934-35???

Disregard - I see you are talking about blueyAU's 34 situation.

Last edited by ChevyGuru; 02/11/14 10:32 PM. Reason: cause I figured it out!

Chevy Guru

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5