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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87 |
I am having some issues with my new springs on my car. I bought new rear leaf springs from St louis spring they come with pressed in threaded bushings in rear and normal rubber style in the front. One of the problems is my front steel bushing is a tad bit wider then the spring perch is. My question is should I grind a bit off of the side of the bushing so it fits or what?
Next issue the hole in the rear perch isn't big enough to drive the metal threaded bushing into. I had to grind the other side with a dremel tool and drove it in and it still will not accept the threaded rod part of the shackles. I think the hole in the perch is flattend on the bottom from the old springs slamming on it over the years. I think the springs were heated to lower the car at one point as the springs were flat on the frame with the shackles flat out the back.
I am going to have to either torch it out or if that wont work find another perch and cut that one off and bolt on a new one. Do y'all have any ideas why these are so tight to drive in? The ones I took off were the newer rubber shackles.
Also I have a camaro rear end in my car it is set up in the very front hole on the mounting block instead of the center hole. If I put it in the center hole the tires will hit the front of the fenders. what is causing this? The spring perches are looking to still be factory perches with original looking rivets in them. This is my first go at messing with this rear end lowereing stuff. what can or should I do to make the rear end set in the middle hole of the blocks and also have the wheel setting in the middle of the fenderwell? I hope this is understandable the way I worded it all. Thanks for any help or ideas..
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 604
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 604 |
As you may know, most of our members are "purists". Many of 'em don't take kindly to majoy modifications. So, you may or may not get a lot of advice on this request. (There are also some of the "other" folks on here too.)
I can't address your bushing problems. Others may help. Perhaps you have after market springs that don't match the original shackle/bushing fitment. If a '38 rearend was set up originally like the '41 to '54 (perhaps other models) you will find the spring tie bolt is one and one-half inches forward of the center of the axle. Even then, the '41 to '48 wheels are not centered in the fender opening. They are a bit forward of center. Why they did this, is unknown to me. There was an extensive "discussion" on this point fairly recently. (I haven't looked at a '38 with this thought is mind.)
If you want to put your Camero axle in the same position as the original axle, you'll have to drill the tie bolt hole in the axle pad one and one-half inches forward of the center of the axle. This is commonly done when going to an open drive line.
Good luck with your project.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87 |
Thanks for your reply. I didnt realize the folks on this site were so into if its not done the way they think it should be that they cant help a fellow car guy out. My springs and shackles are factory or are supposed to be that was the reason i came here to ask this question in the first place. No worries i will move along now and find a site that is more helpfull to all old chevy enthusiasts.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 3
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 3 |
Hello Stumpman,
It sounds like the rear section of your car was cobbled together by it's previous owner.( I happen to like old hotrods ) To elininate all this heart burn go to "Chassis Engineering, Inc." I know they have a bolt in system that locates off all the original suspension points and allows you to install a more modern rear suspension and shock mounts. PM me your e-mail address if you want to discuss this in greater detail.
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 865
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 865 |
A spacer can be used to center the open drive shaft rear end when using original off center springs. The spacer is usually made from 1/2" thick metal and drilled to center the rear axle. A hole is drilled on one end of the spacer to accept the head of the spring tie bolt and another hole is drilled on the other end and the head of a tie bolt is welded in to locate the replacement rear axle pad.Replacement springs that are not off center are available for this conversion.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
I second the suggestion of contacting Chassis Engineering. They are excellent. Since there are two companies by that name, here is the one you want. Chassis Engineering
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87 |
Thanks guys. What I did was ordered new original factory type springs and the factory threaded shackles to go with them. Had I know different I would have went the other route. This is my first old car and is a learning experience for sure. The reaerend is now mounted in the front hole of the mounting block on the axle plate. I found some solid 2" lowering blocks made of aluminum. I am going to just drill them in the same place as the mounting plate hole is and go that route. I think that should work fine. The original springs were heated to be lowered I do believe. So with the shackles working and all I know I will need the lowering blocks to set it back where it was before. I am going to grind the side of the steel bushing a bit on the front so it fits in the front perch ok will that cause any isues? Hopefully that should cure my problems. Thanks again for those that answered.
Last edited by Stumpman; 01/28/14 12:20 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 604
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 604 |
Stump, These are all good fellows here and very knowledgible. Some like mods and some don't like 'em at all. This makes for a good mix of folks. I like both if tastefully done (I much prefer an original appearance). Let's all try to be patient and understanding one with another.
"To each his own".
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 865
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 865 |
The bushings come in two different lengths depending on the width of the spring, grinding to shorten the bushing shouldn't be a problem as long as the pin fits ok.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87 |
The bushings come in two different lengths depending on the width of the spring, grinding to shorten the bushing shouldn't be a problem as long as the pin fits ok. Thanks Dandyd.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Thanks again for those that answered.
Hi Stumpman, I would expect a bit more from you than the above comment. I think when you slowed down, and received more help, you got what you ask for. Sorry we hurt your feelings, but give us some time to reply. You were advised in the first post that modifications are not our strong point. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 87 |
Thanks again for those that answered.
Hi Stumpman, I would expect a bit more from you than the above comment. I think when you slowed down, and received more help, you got what you ask for. Sorry we hurt your feelings, but give us some time to reply. You were advised in the first post that modifications are not our strong point.  You didn't hurt my feelings brother. It takes a lot to do that. This is just not the first time I have been told I might not receive help on this site. Why would you expect more then a thank you to those that replied with help? Not sure I understand you here.
Last edited by Stumpman; 01/28/14 06:06 PM.
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