VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 rivet removal

Good morning Team

Wanting to remove the chassis cross brace directly under the radiator and repair/strengthen/cut the rust out etc.
Removal of the rivets looks to be grind the heads off, punch out or drill out and replace with high tensile bolts.
Any one have views on this.???
Think i have seen posted pictures of one repaired in place (Tiny) but would prefer to do it on the bench.(hate welding upside down)

Was thinking of using coach head bolts to simulate rivets on replacement.

All ideas and thoughts greatly appreciated

Ollie

Ollie,

I used a Dremel to cut a groove (like a regular screw driver slot) into the center of a frame rivet. I then used a metal chisel and large hammer and broke the rivet head off by hitting the edge of the rivet next to the frame. This collapsed the rivet top into the groove I had cut. I then took a punch and punched the rest of the rivet out. I have a heck of a time lining up a drill bit!!!

Good luck, Mike

When I got my 38 Coupe the "hackers" had cut off the emergency brake crossmember, all the running board brackets and some spring mounts,all which were riveted. I got some Ford truck rivets, machined the cone shape of the Chevy rivet on the Ford rivet head, calculated how much length to leave on the other end so it would seat when riveted.. and then made a tool to simulate the cone again on the other end....installed it in my hammer tool, heated with a torch and bucked the rivet...wouldn't ever know..looks original..all you need is time and patience ...Billu38

I found that rivets on my truck didn't always come out easily. Sometimes the holes didn't line up completely and the factory rivet just deformed and filled in the void. Also, some rivet heads were brittle and sheared off almost like glass. Personally, I would say that a lot of patience is required here.

I just make a pilot hole deep into the head and then drill slowly with a larger bit until the head pops off. After that I just knock 'em out with an old nail set.

Thanks guys
I was worried about doing damage but it sounds like no big deal.
Now to find something that looks the part to replace them with..

Cheers
Ollie

Good old filling station sell rivet head bolts .. perfect..

Many people use bolts to reattach frame members. I install rivets which can fill the holes much better and are more permanent. An air hammer with the proper tool on a red hot rivet can produce a tight factory looking installation.

Chipper, what do you use on your air hammer? Did you make your own tool for it? How about on the back side of the rivet? Thanks Don

I bought the tools over the years. Most rivet suppliers also sell the tools. One source is Model A and/or T part suppliers. You may need to grind the depression in some of the tools to get a round enough end. Also need a substantial bucking bar or tool on the other side to keep the head tight.

Chipper,
for my education could you tell me how you heat the rivets up?

I use oxy-acetylene but you could use MAPP. Propane with oxygen would work but just propane takes too long to heat them hot enough. Need to heat them to cherry red and then quickly set them. Takes a bit of practice but goes fairly fast once you get the hang of it. There are plenty of sites (Hansen Rivet is a good source) that sell rivets and have specs and clinch allowance charts. Clinch (the amount of crush) is generally equal to the diameter of the rivet plus a little depending on how round you want the clinch side.

Thanks for that information. I have heard of people installing them but they never tell how it is done!