VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Sorting out the '34

So far so good. No signs of leaks yet.



Dumb question. Why is it that when I pick the hub up with the hydraulic jack it only moves up about one inch before lifting the axle off the stand and when I let it back down after putting the wheel back on it goes down by a whole bunch more?

Next step, the side cover. I may even remove/clean/repaint Wisebri's starter.

Answer to the dumb question.
It is the angle of the dangle. With the jack under it the wheel can not roll back - the long arm moves the wheel ahead when jacked up. Same thing if the hand brake is set and car is jacked-up.When the jack is lowered the car will be sitting high and drops to normal when the brake is released.
It is some times normal for a knee to leak when the car is jacked up.

To repiar the leak I would apply a very thin coat of gasket sealer along the bottom on both sides of the gasket. The problem is the modern gaskets are much harder than the all cork gaskets from years ago preventing them from compressing.

Well, the one I fixed looks OK. But...we haven't taken it for a ride yet. The other one still weeps. The oil appears to come from the top, either some overrun from topping it up or leaking around the top cover. I'll have to jack it up with the wheel off and take a closer look.



Removed the side cover, put a beat of Permatex #2 as per Gene's instruction & reinstalled. Looks good in there after 500 miles.





What about the plugs? They're all brown between the electrodes but the rest looks sooty to me.

Normal if you have been making a number of cold starts and putting around with it. A good drive in the country will clean them off.

Thanks Gene.

As Gene said normal and dont adjust anything.
Tony

Finished that board for the fire extinguisher and mounted it in the trunk with self-adhesive Velcro.




Masked around the window rubber in preparation to inject some windshield sealer.

What kind of window sealer are you going to use...brand ect.

mike

CRL (C.R.Laurence Co.Inc.),Windshield Sealant, No. CRL7711. Made in Los Angeles.

Okay I assume this is going to come in a tube or a caulking gun ???? which one.?

How are you going to get the windshield rubber to peel back while you inject the glue to seal the rubber to the metal ?

Last question Pat...........why this particular product ??

mike

Hey Pat... I'm not well versed on '34 paint, but do you have plans to pinstripe it? Some matching orange would sure look nice with your wheel colour!

Hi Mike,
It comes in a cartridge for the caulking gun. He told me to drill a 1/16 or 3/32 hole in the tip rather than cut it and it should stay stiff enough to pull and lift the rubber while injecting the stuff. Otherwise I'll need a helper to pull the plastic wedge thing ahead of the nozzle.

The product was recommended (and sold) by the glassman at the local glass shop who cut all my glass. It was Ziebart/Uniglass.

You must be a mind reader. I was tossing ideas around. One was to buy one of Eastwood's little pinstripe rollers and try to do it myself. The other was to do what I did with my Model A, lay
down a twin pinstripe tape and paint in between.

Also, I had asked Yosemite Sam if he'd come here (His ad says your shop or mine)but he said the trip charges would kill me. He suggested trying to link up with him at a show further South.I had visions of the June show in Gravenhurst.

While the valve cover is off, I ran the engine with the intent of ckecking the valve clearances. They look OK to me. A sight drag on the gauge. However, I noticed there is still a slight hesitation or stumble when applying throttle. So while I was revving it up I thought I saw movement down below. Sure enough, there were tiny orange sparks coming out from under the manifolds. So I shut it down and waited for my heart rate to get back below 300. I looked underneath with my dental mirror and couldn't see anything untoward. So I started it again and felt underneath. There appears to be a leak on the underside of each exhaust manifold runner, more in front. I'm sure I lined up the flanges when I put the two manifolds together. I might even have tightened them only after they were attached to the engine. Would doubling up on the gaskets help?

I also reinstalled one of the hood corners which had fallen off. I used epoxy, it should stay there. I also put a bit of split tubing on the flange at the rear of the hood which rests on the cowl vent when the hood is laid flat.







On a lighter note, I found the perfect article for the glove box. If you look closely there is no 401. And if you look really closely, you can just about see Brewster and Mike Lynch's homes.

Pat, my house was not constructed until 1976, it was all part of the Ontario Ladies College grounds.. Just up from me is a circa 1850 real castle that the sherrif of durham had built . His wife passed away early after it was completed , and he passed away with no children.

Its a magnificent structure built in the English castle style with all kinds of chimneys sticking out of the roof. Its now a finishing school for women from all over the world. Its a live in or a come to everyday.



Your hood corners, do they have a stud with wings that gets bent over on the inside ?? They should never come off. good idea on the rubber on the inside.

mike

Pat:
Did you check the manifolds with a straight edge before you put them back on? Extra gasket material can help a bit but you may need a machinist to mill them.
Steve

I seem to remember putting them flange down on the table saw deck before snubbing them. I may need to take them off and get them planed.

They do have the little tabs. That the corner that I welded up, making it somewhat thicker. Of course I had forgotten to make a template for the location of the hole which ended up a bit off.

Pat... I noticed that there is no hiway 9 between Orangeville and Aurora. It ends at Hiway 50, right where it turns south to my town of Bolton. Also of note is all of the ferry lines that run the Great Lakes. Now we have Super Highways, no ferries, and gridlock! Progress Blows!

I'm sure we'd have a lot of fun poring over that map with a cold one. Maybe this summer....

I found that the bolts holding the manifold to the block could use some tightening. So I did that. Now it looks like the leak is only under the front runner/port/branch. what can I squirt into the carb to do a smoke test?

Transmission fluid

mike

Pat,
I experienced a similar problem on my 35 manifolds, I made the mistake of assembling the 2 halves of the manifold before attaching to the head...wrong...
I slackened the 4 inlet manifold nuts after loosely attaching the complete assembly to the head, I then did all the manifold bolts up tight to the head.
Once that was done I tightened the 4 inlet manifold bolts and by doing it that way, the flanges tightened up and aligned and any discrepancies between the inlet and exhaust flanges were eliminated because the top casting with a small amount of movement was allowed to move and settle in a none stress position....then no more leaks!
this worked for me, your flanges may need machining as mentioned before, but maybe try this first ?

Peter

Thanks Peter, I'll try that. However, I think I may have to replace the gasket.