VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 correct fuel pump for my 34 std

So my 34 std came with an electric pump fitted and the mech pump bypassed. I didnt like this and on investigation I found out that the plunger of the mech pump was broken off. (Sorry, I tried to post a photo but couldnt get it right) The pump that was fitted was propably the wrong type as it looked exactly like the 1937 pump in the Filling Station catalogue. (The one with thje glass bowl) So, with all this info I have a few questions please:

1) Would it be possible that the plunger broke off inside the engine? I am asking this because it seems like the cam is running above the pump and I cannot see how it could have contact with the plunger. I'm wondering if the PO didnt just fit the broken one for the show. I could be wrong here of course so please help me with this?

2) So lets say it did break inside the engine, would there be any danger if the broken part was lying in the sump bucket? I will obviously take it off and clean it out eventually but I have other issues I'd like to sort out first. If I have to pull the sump, can I just replace the gasket or do I have to do the crank seals as well.

3) the FS doesnt list a new fuel pump for the 34 std so I looked on ebeay and there is a guy who claims the fuel pump he advertise will work. Here's the link. could someone please confirm this before I buy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORS-FUEL-P...=item4d16a5388d&vxp=mtr#ht_374wt_698

First I will answer the last question. The pump on ebay is correct for a 1934 Chevrolet....the 1934 pump did not have a glass bowl. The 1935 and 1936 pump had a glass bowl and will fit a 1934 Ok but the pump is a little longer and some line modifications would be necessaery.
If the pump arm broke off and is inside the engine it would have fallen to the bottom of the oil pan (sump) and if it were my car I wouldn't worry about it.
Removing and cleaning the pan and oil pump screen is always a good idea.
The 1934 engine has no front and rear crankshaft/timing gear cover seals.

Wow, thats a relief, thanks for the great explanation. O.k, so i will get the new pump from enay and fit it. The old pump had a spacer about 1/2" thick, should i keep this in there when fitting the new pump? Mext question is the filter. Would a normal inline plastic filter be o.k or should i fit the filter which has the removable element? Does it matter where the filter fit? After the pump close to the carb or before the pump?

There is no spacer between the engine and the pump.
I prefer the glass bowl filter with a replaceable element. You can see the dirt that settles to the bottom of the bowl and clean it out. The element can be resued many times.
The proper place for the filter is right in front of the carburetor.

Hi there,
the fact that you think that the arm may have broken off and fallen into the sump it the most worrying part.
I would remove the sump anyway and clean it out so you know where you are going and if the arm is in there, you have completed 2 tasks in one action.
I have removed and replaced my sump many times and all you need is a new gasket if the old one is hardened and comes away with the pan when you remove it..best to have those parts on hand before you undo the screws...
good luck with the rebuild and restoration...

Peter

IF the pump arm is laying in the sump it is highly unlikely to move for 2 reasons (a) it is heavy enough that the oil pump wont be able to pick it up and (b) the oil and if any sludge will lock it in its current position.
In short leave it alone until there is a real reason to drop the sump then clean the lot out.
Tony

I agree with the aboce....it would be below the oil troughs and too big to go through the oil pump screen. If it hasn't caused a problem yet you are safe unless the car is turned up-side-down.