Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Tims37 Offline OP
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How do you get the cylinder out I did a search and I know you stick a stiff wire in the hole in the ignition and you are supposed to be able to turn the key counter clock wise to remove but it won't turn what am I doing wrong is there some other trick to removing this? I need to replace the wire to the electrolock mine is shorting out inside the cable. togo

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you should be able to feel some spring tension as you push the stiff wire(staighten out a paper clip). as soon as you feel the spring tension, turn the key counterclockwise and release a little tension on your paper clip and finish the counterclockwise rotation, then pull cylinder with key towards you. good luck, mike

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Tims37 Offline OP
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I don't seem to feel any spring tension so I don't know if there is something goofy with mine or what but I also have an extra electrolock with no key but I don't seem to feel any spring tension on that either I know I need the key but I was just comparing the two and neither seem to have spring tension. Also if I do get it apart how hard is it to replace the wire?

Thanks

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Do you have a Genuine Chevrolet Eletrolock with the same key that fits the doors?Spray a little WD40 into the hole - it should get to the pin which may be stuck.Let it soak over night.


Gene Schneider
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I usually use a bent paper clip to depress the pin.Cut off a paper clip and make it nice and straight.Stick in it the hole and give it a little tap.The pin may be stuck from not moving in the last 65 years.


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Also, you shouldn't have to remove the lock cyliner to get the electrolock apart to replace the wire. The lock cylinder housing is in two pieces, a top and a bottom, therefore you should be able to uncrimp the two pieces in the middle and then remove the back half of the housing with the cable assembly. At that point you can replace the wire.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Tims37 Offline OP
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Yes I have the a genuine GM electrolock but now I guess I don't need the cylinder out as JYD has said I need to carfully split the two haves is there anything I should be aware of when opening this..Flying springs or anything? :eek: :eek:

Thanks :)

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Be careful that you don't break the housing when taking it apart and take note of how everything goes together for reassembly.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Tims37 Offline OP
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Oky doky I'll give er a try thanks JYD!

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Tims37 Offline OP
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Well I got it apart but how does that black plastic looking piece with the brass contacts come out I don't want to brake anything.Do I have to remove the armored cable from the back of switch? I see it has a hex head on it but don't know if I have to mess with that or not.

Thanks for the help :)

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On the black Bakelite piece, look and see if the internal wire is soldered to it. You don't have to remove the armored cable to replace the wire.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Tims37 Offline OP
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Well I got it all put back together and works great also for future referance there is 3 indents on side of switch that also need to be pried out in order to get the plastic bakolite out of switch in order to solder a new wire on back.

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Cool and good going!

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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My cable wire is shorting too so I took my switch apart as well. I have been trying to pry out the 3 pinch points that hold the bakelite body but it means leveraging off the bakelite. Is that how you did it? It is wiggling but won't come out and I don't want to crack the bakelite..
Mike

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Tims37 Offline OP
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Yes that is what I did. But once I got to the "Wiggle Point" I took a channel lock pliers and pushed it out using the screw terminals on back of switch I did cringe a little but I was very very carful with it and I did have an extra switch in case I did screw up. But everything worked out great for me and that usally is not the case...You know Murohys law wel it seems to follow me everywhere...Good luck and be very slow and carefull wink wink auto


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