Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#29492 04/15/06 09:52 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
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Garbo Offline OP
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I'm replacing the window channels on my '39 and have found that the clips that come with the kit have very little holding power. They have just two little points that stick into the rubber backs of the channels. The channels don't seem to want to stay put. I thought of rivets, but thought that might be a last resort. How about a little of the weatherstrip cement? I await your wisdom.
Best wishes,
Chuck


garbo
#29493 04/17/06 10:40 PM
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I've been mulling over your post and thought that there must be something I am missing. I haven't worked on a 39, however the original 38 weather stripping does not have anything like what you are describing, but again that could just be differences in the models. Which window are you working on and where on the channel is the problem? On the 38 channels there are small hex screws that hold the channel molding in place, rivets that hold the vent window straight molding, a metal channel holding the curved vent window molding, and staples on the trim molding.

Brian

#29494 04/18/06 10:31 AM
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Garbo Offline OP
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Thanks Bigbth for your reply. (a picture is worth a thousand words) I am working on installing the window channels that the 4 roll up windows roll into...the channels are U shaped with the chromed beaded edges and the "mohair" material inside the channel. The back windows have a single channel piece that surround the window on the 2 sides and top when the window is rolled up. The fronts are a single piece that runs across the top and 1 side of the rolled up window. (the 3rd side is the straight vent window molding) The kit (Chey of the 40's-yes, I called them) included clips that don't seem to have any holding power...they consist of 2 points on each clip that just stick into the backs of the channels at intervals...I felt like the channels needed something more to hold them firmly in place (like screws, rivets, or cement)...particularly when the windows are rolled down. Anyway, any thoughts are appreciated and I hope I was able to clarify this somewhat. Thanks in advance.
Best wishes,
Chuck


garbo
#29495 04/18/06 11:28 AM
Joined: May 2002
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Backyard Mechanic
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I know the clips that you are talking about. On my "40 I resorted to using a few flat headed counter sunk screws (size 6 - short). On the front windows I used one at the front, one about half way back, one in the curve, and one at sill level at the back of the window. Reverse the procedure for the rear window. Countersink is a misnomer. I really just tightened the screw into the channel until the screw head was below the level of the felt. The material is plenty thick to allow you to do that. Take care when you drill the holes for the screws because it is tough to find the screw hole in the whiskers after you remove the drill. I inserted a wire in the hole as I removed the drill. Give me a call at 318-798-0493 if you have any questions.


Mike
#29496 04/18/06 05:12 PM
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Garbo Offline OP
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Thanks Mike...I feel better now...I was wondering if I had missed something...I used some weatherstrip cement on the first one I installed as an experiment...I'll see how well it works before doing the rest. I'll use your suggestion if it doesn't work...nice to know I'm not completely nuts.
Thanks again and Best wishes,
Chuck


garbo
#29497 04/18/06 08:23 PM
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I don't think there are supposed to be any clips. The screws are, if I remember correctly, 4 head 6 body. I could only find them at Restoration Speciality http://www.restorationspecialties.com/.

There should be holes at intervals around the window, those are the screw holes. If you use a little hook, like a dental instrument, you can pull the fabric on the channel away from the screw head just before it seats and they will be almost invisible. You have to screw them in tight so that the metal back of the channel will bend in slightly, this prevents the window glass from rubbing on the head of the screw during use. Cut the channel so that they push up against the inside door channel rubber, located in the door, then flare the bead out slightly so that there is a smooth transition from down position to up position. You may have to adjust the front door inner channel, the adjusting screws are behind the door panel, that guides the glass along the vent window edge to get a good fit after new channel is installed. Hope this helps a little.

Brian

#29498 04/18/06 10:21 PM
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Garbo Offline OP
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Thanks Brian...that adds alot...I feel like I'm on the right track now.
Best wishes,
Chuck


garbo
#29499 04/19/06 11:42 AM
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Posts: 132
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What's a 4 head 6 body screw? I thought screws were always head size# and length?
Mike

#29500 04/20/06 05:59 AM
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There are all sorts of combinations, go to Restoration Specialities and look at the catalogue on page 173. The screws in my channel had the small head and there were other places in the car where odd screw sizes were used. I never found them at a local hardware store, although you may have better luck.

Brian

#29501 04/29/06 10:06 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
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Grease Monkey
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Brian, thanks for that link.


It ain't a truck if you can't hose out the cab.

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