VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 29 Electrolock Issues

On my 29 electrolock; sometimes it has troubles "popping out." In other words, the inserted key won't allow the switch to turn and pop out. I used carb cleaner, and I get it to work a while.
Any thoughts on fixing this more professionally?

The two die-cast internal cylinders are growing. While it still works the lock mechanism should be taken out and both cylinders sanded to remove a little metal. If the cylinders actually stick then the lock will be junk.

Thanks for the quick reply especially on Thanksgiving.
How do you take the lock out?
and/or
if it is junk
Does anybody sell replacements?
Thanks
Have a good Thanksgiving.

To remove the lock cylinder, turn the key to the right and get it to pop out. Then, with a pointed tool, push down on the half-moon brass plunger that is visible on the top of the lock cylinder. Will pushing down on the plunger, turn the key to the right and pull out the lock cylinder.

The problem is that both the plug (the part where the key is inserted) and the housing of the lock cylinder are made out of pot metal and pot metal expands with age. Once the lock cylinder is removed, take the lock cylinder with the key to a qualified locksmith (if you can find one....there were only two left in the USA and one died last week) and have him remove the plug from the housing. Once removed the housing will have to be reamed so that the plug will turn freely. Also, the outside of the lock cylinder housing will have to be inserted in a lathe and then filed slightly so that it will move in and out of the electrolock freely.

A replacement lock cylinder is very hard to find and usually the lock cylinders with a key bring around $100 each.

Remove the ring that holds the electrolock in the dash. Pull the assembly backwards out of the dash. Unlock the lock and let it pop out. On the top side you will see half of a brass button. Push it in while twisting the key clockwise. The lock cylinder assembly will slide out. Once the cylinder assy is removed the fun begins.

On the rear of the cylinder assembly is the button that you pushed earlier. Push it down and remove it out of the back of the assembly. Don't loose the spring under it. It will try to pop out and fly! Now turn the key clockwise and remove the lock plate by pulling it up and out. Once the plate is removed slide the inside cylinder out the back. You will have to eventually remove the key as you slide it back. Be extremely careful not to loose any of the wafers or springs. Once the inside cylinder is out reinsert the key to retain the pieces. Now you can sand off the outside of the inside cylinder (with wafers), the inside of the outside cylinder and the outside of the outside cylinder. There will be high spots particularly on the inside cylinder. Try to get them as round as you can. Test fit occasionally so you don't take too much off. That includes the outside cylinder in the steel case. Once they all fit without any binding reverse the process to put it all back together. Lube with a light oil and you are good to go.

If (that is a big IF) there is a local locksmith that understands the lock it might be better to take it to him to get fixed. It will not be cheap but can save the lock.

No, no one makes replacement parts, yet. Steve at the Filling Station has a set of parts that I supplied so he can have them reproduced. Don't know if it will ever happen though.

tu-papa: i suggest you send your electrolock to the junkyard dog or to chipper for its rebuild. if you attempt and end up destroying the electrolock, finding a used working replacement will be a costly headache. mike

I have had junkyard do 4 electros. and dist. Very very good they look brand new!!!! and work!! New plating and every thing He needs the work, hes just a poor old man. Roger

Thanks one and all for the help. I'll look at it this afternoon. I am wondering why carb spray would loosen it up for awhile. Can dirt get behind it and clog it?
I'll give you all an update later.

i had issues with my lock for as long as i had my 30. i was able to find a pop out lock on e bay that dog rebuilt many years ago. its cost me over 300$. after i put it in i felt i could take apart my stock lock. i did get it to work but didn`t like the way it worked after a put it all back together so i left the e bay one in my car.

The carb spray will act as a lubricant but only for a very short time as it will evaporate quickly. WD-40 in my opinion would be a better choice other than having it repaired as suggested.

Carb cleaner is a solvent that removes oils and greases. It evaporates quickly so any lubrication will not only be removed but when the cleaner is gone so is the lubrication. WD-40 is fish oil so will lubricate the parts much longer. 3 in 1, ATF or MMO are better lubricants for the lock.

If the pot metal is swelling due to age, about the only cure to make the lock work as it should would be to ream the lock cylinder housing and etc. as described above.

ATF is automatic transmission fluid? How about graphite? Thanks one and all for the help.

ATF is automatic transmission fluid, the old red nearly universal type. You can try graphite but hard to get it to all parts of the lock.

Go with the ATF instead of the graphite.

A local locksmith (the other one in the US that didn't die) recommended Tri-flow to lubricate the inside of locks. It is a lubricating liquid with Teflon suspended in it.

The door locks to my house were sticking recently, so I took them out, sprayed with carb cleaner to clean them, and then put a few drops of Tri-flow on the mechanism. The locks work like new now. ;-)

Be sure to shake the container to get the Teflon floating around.

Here's more info on the product: http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html

Cheers, Dean

Thanks one and all