VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 How to Remove 1929 Rear Drum

Looking at my Rear Brakes, was trying to figure out how to get teh drum off. I have removed the cotter pin & Castle Nut off the shaft. Thought that the Drum would just slide off, but was wrong.

Did Some homework and it seems that the proper way to remove the rear drum is by using a Really Big & Heavy Duty Gear/ Pulley Puller ??

How have you guys done it, and what is the Best/ Safest way to do this, with OUT damaging the drum or anything on the Rear Axle ??

I don't know about this being the "safest" or best method but it worked well for me on my 32. I backed the retaining nut off a couple of turns and with the car on jack stands started it and applied the brakes a few times.

On my car I backed off on the rear brakes and then I used a drum puller. Both brake drums came right off.

you might be able to RENT a puller from a tool rental place. My friend bob just had to do this, my 3 arm puller was too short.

mike

For one time use-I would improvise your existing puller by adding a chain to extend the length of the arms to fit the drum. Also have seen a scissors jack centered on axel used with chains. Have not used these techniques or recommend that they are successful or will not damage your truck.

A big drum puller works best, but I have had success with a smaller gear puller. Since you're working with a six lug pattern, you can work 180 degrees apart. Just put two lug nuts on backwards being sure they're opposite. This will give the dogs a good purchase and if the stars align, you can get the drum off. Be sure to back off on the brake adjustment first.

I bought a puller for 70$ by tools-world. Works well.

I used a big, three legged, spanner puller. Has just the right depth to pull a drum off. Legs hook to the lug studs and fine treaded screw fits on the axle shaft. worked great. Found mine on e-bay for 80 bucks.

Mac

Looks like everyone has their way, seems most use a large hub puller or crum puller. I am going to see if I can rent one from the local parts store before I buy one to make sure i buy what i truly need.

How do you reinstall the brake drum and make sure it is secure and on all the way ?? Does it have to be pressed on or jsut slid on then tighted up and pinned ??

Replacing the drum is easy. Push it on with the brakes loose and tighten the castle nut and replace the cotter pin. I would look into the torques specs before I tightened it.

Hello BearsFan315,
I seem to recall the technique of backing off the castle nut a few turns, then replacing the cotter pin and drive in tight circles to break loose the hold between the drum and the axle hub. If the vehicle cannot be driven, building your own puller that uses a bottle jack can be done. There is a post here that describes how. You'll need to do a search.

Right now the car is up on Stands, so no way to Drive it around :/ looking at a few pullers, nothing locally all have to be ordered !! Even for the local parts stores...

Need to find out the Torque Specs, do not want to strip the nut or tear up the axle threads. But want to make sure that the hub is ALL THEY WAY ON and SECURE.

No torque specs. were used in 1929. Just follow the instructions in your shop manual.

Perfect time to back the nut off a couple of turns, start the car and with it in gear apply the brakes intermittently. Works best with the wheels and tires on as that gives you some leverage. The hub and shaft are tapered so once it loosens it will come off easily. The retaining nut is fairly large and stripping it or the shaft would require an excessive amount of torque.

On my 32, one hub took a 3prong puller, a week of penetrating oil with puller pressure, and a big rubber hammer to give it some shock to break the bond. It was undriveable, so couldn't try the other easier suggestions.

Problem is I am working on the brakes, as the Previous owner had new brakes, but not installed completely. So I am trying to install new springs, and set the brakes, but wanted to check the bearing as well as the emergency brake, since it is internal.

Got me a Hub Puller on the way, this is what I am looking at getting: Universal Hub Puller

exactly like mine....Excellent

That is also the same type I used and it worked great for me. When I used it I did not use the original wheel nuts I put washers and a flat nut instead.

A couple if ways I have used, one: using two long screw drivers, place them 180 degrees apart and pryse the drum off. 2: use a soft mallet and hit on the flat to break any rust off the shoes then gently tap on the flange until it come off. Both after letting the brakes off fully of course.

Dan

I just had marginal success (one came off, the other will have to soak some more to try again) by first spray it with a rust remove, then apply remove pal force by inserting two large opposite screw driver prying between the back plate and drum. Don't apply too much as to warp the back plate. Then hammer the shaft with a soft hammer. One came off, the other not yet.
Good luck.

Well got my Hub Puller in last night !!

Will post up some picts of what I got. It is stamped as a Hunt brand, anyone ever heard of them. This thing came in an old metal case, weighs a ton. In excellent condition and will long outlast me and the next 12 owners :)