VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 wing windows

Today I was trying to remove my wing windows so I can replace the rubber seal. Do I have to remove the entire crank assembly or does the window just fit down into a splined shaft. I bought a repair manual, it has nothing on windows. I also tried the search function and its pretty worthless too. My success has been thru asking questions, but now everyone knows how limited I am.

A lot of windows are starting on page 321 of the "Master Parts Price List, six-cylinder models 1929-1942". In addition there are a lot of other good drawings of other car parts. Hopes this helps.

You must remove the entire crank assembly.

Thanks for both replys. I drilled a hole in the wood that exposed the bolt that holds the wing window in place. It may not be too difficult to remove the crank assembly.

Terrill, the book I have is the 1935 chevrolet repair manual, with the 1936 supplement. Not much of a book, I will look into the other manual. Desperately trying to get the car painted next week.

Look here: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/index.html for the online parts manual.
Richard

Thanks, perhaps the manual will also tell me how to remove the wiper motor too.
John

Wow, downloading that PDF file was an experience. I had 3 different programs jump into my computer and it took me an hour to get them out. Ask, Wise, and Norton all invited them selves in. All three are worthless and only makes my PC run slower. I will look for a reproduction copy and just buy it. Free sometimes ain't free. I'm sure this is the manual I want.

Just view the parts manual as an online web link not a downloadable PDF. I think you may have clicked on one of the online ads and tried to download.
Richard

Mine are not wooden doors. I have steel frame. I can send you some photo's via E-mail if you want?

My doors are wood and there are a lot of pieces. I drilled a hole so I could get to the bolt that holds the wing window to the regulator. Looks like the regulator has to come out. The rubber seals were bad, so they have to be replaced.

Well by now you have:
1. Removed the lock knob that locks the door.
2. Removed garnish molding.
3. Removed door inside handles.
4. Remove door handle retaining screw in lock face.
5. Loosened the upper 1/2 of door trim pad by drawing out the tacks. (that lets you get it off the door.)
Now you need to:
6.Removed the Regulator Board Screws.
7.Removed the Regulator Board. (note: some jiggling or light tapping may be needed to get it out.)
And now you can remove the Wing Regulator from the Board! Some time the wing regulator may have not held during in the wind and was blown shut or rattled. The board may have been cut out and the nut tightened. So you may see that part cut away on the Regulator Board exposing the wing regulator workings. The Regulator Board is that big board across the door. The other boards are around the door. Hope this helps you. There are other ways around this door. Study your moves first and take photo's with each move. Good luck.

The upholster had the door panels off the car, so I'm down to step 6 now. I will be careful and I printed off your instructions. I will wait until painting is done, before I install the rubber seals. I took the car to a body shop in Roswell, NM and he wanted $3000 to wet sand and paint the car using my acrylic enamel. I guess I will have to paint it myself.

Those body shop guys! If they are not "hot" to do the job they jack up the price. It they have other work and do not want any more they jack up the price. Thing to do is find one that "wants" to do the job and is "hungry" enough to give a fair price. But if you take your time and know how to do it I can not see why not. I put at least two coats on my jobs some times three. It is the prep. that makes it come out good. I'm a real stickler about prep. I "drag" with a clean rag and thinner to remove dust just before I spray. Also, I paint in an enclosed area....use a breather...etc. Border line pro I guess...Hey! Good luck...get her done.

Terrill, I was sort of relieved to bring my car home. I really didn't know his quality, only what his brother said. All I really saw there was junk all piled up. I came home and ordered a set of Dura block sanding blocks, 5 rolls of sandpaper, and some dry guide powder. I've got a pretty good helper, the supplies should be here thursday or friday. We shall see. I can partition off a big area with plastic and I have an exhaust fan. My problem is time now, I leave here Christmas day until next may. So time is running short. I think we can block this car out in a week.

I read your post again, are you saying just cut out enough of the regulator board so I can remove the regulator. That would be a snap.

Terril
A lot of the body shops around here wont do the finish if they havent done the prep. Some will allow you to do the prep at their shop under supervision but they are rare.
Tony

It is all those little "hickies" and "what noties" under there that make for a rough job on top. Remember what is under neath there will show up big time! I paint with another darker color first. Let dry and take a good look at the shine. Take pictures. Review the photo's. Then go back and re-do those "hickies" and "what noties" that I missed. Re-sand, clean, drag and respray again and take a second look. A good way to find that mistake you missed a second time is to take pictures again. It lets you see sometime when a shadow or bright light blocks your eye. Re-sand and when it looks perfect then it is time for cleaning, dragging and those finishing coats....I like two or three. I like to "drag" between each coat of paint. (Dragging is a cloth with a thinner on it to get dust off.) Vary-temp and medium drying time (some like fast drying time) thinner. Check you paint shop for the best in your area. What you put on is what you got to look at. I also use a air moisture trap. Noting like spraying and a spit of water to spoil your day. The more control over the area you spray and what you spray the better your job. Inside with a fan to blow fumes away vs. out side under a tree with falling leaves. Practice makes perfect. Use something to paint on first to see how it is going to "do". I "test spray" every time I paint, just before a couple of times, to be sure, before doing the car...nothing like having rough spray come out first thing! You get my point. There is a lot more to be said about painting...these are just a few....good luck and take your time. (even though you feel rushed, better to get it right the first time.)

The regulator board may have already been cut away to fix the nut on the bottom of the reg. That was the fix for a rattle or wind blowing it shut. You might luck out on it that a way. You will have to look at it and see what you can do.