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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113 |
I'm feeling the need to try and start an engine that likely hasn't been started in 20 years.
I'm thinking I'm going to pull the engine out of the car and separate the engine and transmission. Put the engine on a stand. The engine will have fresh oil.
Then hookup an external gas can and a battery and give it a go???
Should I clean out the carb?
Starter fluid?
Fresh spark plugs?
Squirt oil in the cylinders?
New distributor and rotor.
When I drained the old oil it was cleaner than my modern car.
Pulled the valve cover and all the valves move and look really clean.
Engine isn't frozen.
This car has been in the dry west Texas desert for a long time so it's likely the rubber's all dried out in the carb but can I do much harm if I see if it will start???
I feel like I should see if it will start before I rebuild it or am I just being impatient??
Any advice?? Including "Be patient"!
Thanks
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model)
Basketcase
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 48
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 48 |
I suggest trying to start it while it is still in the car. Personally, I wouldn't pull the engine unless I really had to (I knew something major was broken) or if I was planning a restoration (but that's just me). Here is a good thread to read with some suggestions for approaching your project: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/241612/Re_1928_Chevy_sitting_for_49_y#Post241612Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Don't know why you want to take engine out and separate transmission. I have always left engines in the frame if possible as there is more support than on an engine stand or sitting on the floor.
Oil everything possible. Crank engine (or remove distributor and spin oil pump) until oil flows to rocker shaft. If it takes more than 1/2 minute then best to remove distributor and spin pump. May find it necessary to prime oil pump. Once you have engine parts lubricated try to start. A little gas down the carburetor throat or squirt of carburetor cleaner should get a short firing. Connect small clean gas tank to fuel pump as tank on vehicle likely contains crud. Can even run a short time without coolant in engine. Let cool before adding coolant so you can run longer.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113 |
Thanks all,
You've convinced me to leave it in the frame.
I'll let you know if it starts.
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model)
Basketcase
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 47
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 47 |
Well, we are waiting. LOL
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 113 |
Me too, Darn work keeps getting in the way!!
1936 Chevy Standard Town Car (Late model)
Basketcase
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 799
ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 799 |
Fear Not.....I started a 32 after it had been stored dry for 24 years.. Turned the flywheel with a screwdriver..tapped the rockers with a mallet .fresh oil spun thru pump with drill, gas in the carb and VIOLA' The carb didn't even leak......Geez..I love old cars
Old cars have always owned me.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478 |
Hurrah! Get her dun. Glad to hear you are running! I have done it with my two 1936's. Both had set up a long time!
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