Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 250
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 250
Hello.
I've been spending some time prepping the front end of my 40 MD Sport Sedan for a fresh engine rebuild installation and noticed the nuts that secure the tire rod ends and pitman arm retainer plate/bushings were fairly loose. I had some mechanics put in a front end kit and I'm sure they didn't use the manual I let them borrow (they never do!). The nuts have cotter pins in place, but the nut rotates easily with my fingers. I studied the service manual and didn't really find how tight they should be. I know they probably shouldn't be loose, but not too tight as well. Front end stuff is obviously serious business!
Any help you pros could give would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Curt

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 179
DFC Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 179
Curt, the shop manuals usually don't specify torque values for suspension parts. My Daddy told me 50 years back to tighten with an 8 inch ratchet without busting a gut then tighten until the cotter pin slipped through the castellated nut and shaft. Been doin it that way ever since with no problems so it must be gospel. I'll bet that mechanic planned to come back after lunch to snug things up but a big plate of Linguini slowed down his thinking. Dan

Joined: May 2011
Posts: 596
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 596
Snug them up and back off just enough to get a cotter key through the holes. If it's close enough, snug them a bit more to get the key through.


Richard
Waverly, IA

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