VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Water pump and front shocks

CH05 is the crank hole cover peice. It does not use screws to hold to the grill. The sides are slightly bent so after pushing on the grill will stay on.

CH05-L goes below the crank hole and is below the grill against the body. It does use 2 screws to hold this peice on. I hope this helps.

Thanks old chevy. I have the CH05-L, so I will order the CH05.

Hurrah! For New Mexico! Enjoy your new title...good deal.

Thanks Terrill:

About a month ago, I got a title in NM for a 1930 Ford roadster, that I'm building into an AV8. It took me 13 months to get that title.

HJ,

Your radiator shop saying that they think the radiator is bad leave a lot to be desired in explanation. Why do they think it is bad? It's either bad or good. I expect they just don't want to mess with it. Easier to just tell you it is bad.

I would flush out the block from high pressure air from the petcock on the left rear of the engine and reverse flush the radiator with water and air pressure and reinstall it.

If needed, the ides of boiling and rodding is a good one. After boiling and roddding, there may be some holes show up when test-tanked under about 10 lbs of pressure. The larger ones can be soldered up while the very fine, pin-point ones can be resolved by using some Solder-Seal or other similar graffit product with satisfactory results. Any competent radiator shop will suggest this when an original replacement core is not available.

I'd suggest not modifying anything to fit some other radiator without seeing what the old one will do beforehand. And avoid parades.

Good luck with it.

Best,
Charlie

BTW: Look for an old time radiator shop that has an old-timer with experience in radiators from the 30s-50s. Some of these young whipper-snappers don't know squat.

I and I said they will put the CH05 on a fast horse for me. LOL

41 special:
Radiator shops now a days are a scarce as a hen's tooth. The guy I took the radiator to in Roswell said he could see some seeping where the radiator is trying to come apart. After 77 years this radiator is starting to get pretty crusty, I do think its a good idea to try to back flush the engine block. I'm sure there is rust in there. I was told the car sat for about 30 years and there is some fairly heavy rust on the necks where the hoses mount. I'm cleaning them up now and try to get as much rust out as I can. The frame that holds the radiator in the car is in perfect shape and at first glance it would appear to be easy to insert a new radiator into the original frame. Of course I cannot solder a steel frame to an aluminum radiator, but I should be able to bolt it securely to the tabs that come on aluminum radiators. The aluminum radiator is for a 32 Ford and is 1 inch shorter than the 36 chevy radiator, but is a 3 core and is advertised to handle 1000 hp. I put an aluminum radiator on my AV8, with a 53 ford flathead and it runs very cool. I have not done anything on this radiator, except look at it. LOL
I think, from what I have read, the older chevy's have a tendency to run a little warm, because of the water pump design.
Thanks for you reply.
John

I really wish you luck on back flushing that block. But one thing you do not want is chunks of rust into that new rad. I did the same thing you are doing with out success. It kept running hot. Until I pulled the head. I found chunks of rust had hung up on the holes from the block into the head. The rest of the water jacket was clean. I found that the rust had blocked the water jets in the head. These jets squirt the coldest water onto the hot spots around the exhaust valves. They plug up very easy. I know it sounds like a bit much but she now runs on 170 degrees on the hottest of summer days. That is with a 160 degree thermostat. Wish you the best of luck. Hope you don't have to pull that head.

Terrill, I don't want to pull that head either. Since I already have the hood, grille, bumper all removed, a buddy said I should remove the freeze plugs and do a better job. Just hate to knock them out. Today I found out the trunk latch is broken, I think I found one on AAAParts.

not long ago, you posted about doing the woodgrain on your window mouldings. I started removing mine today, they still have a good bid of the wood grain finish, but some fading and some light surface rust. Did you lightly sand yours before clear coating. I was going to paint them the color of the dash, I will leave it original, but the mouldings are pretty ugly. That said it would be nice if I could bring out the wood grain paint job.

I would like to be able to post photos, but this is the most difficult site to navigate, that I've had the pleasure of using.

You can try that flushing. I ran a garden hose in. Removed the thermostat and the chunks of rust came out. Ran the other way several times, too, back and forth. Only by running it you can tell. I did not luck out on that...on the moulding...After cleaning, you can try water base poly and see what you get after dry. If it looks good try a second coat. Here is the deal...it is water base! You can remove water base paint by using water and a rag and a lot of rubbing! Then you can do the other thing.