Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#290179 09/26/13 06:22 PM
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Davis38 Offline OP
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Hey all,
I am thinking about changing to a 235, however I wanted to ask a few questions those that have them:

Are they easy to maintain?
Do they leak oil?
What horsepower and RPM range can I expect out of one if I do a decent build?
What internal parts, if any, are interchangeable from the 216ci?

If theres anything else you'd like to add please feel free to let me know.

Thanks,
Davis

Davis38 #290185 09/26/13 07:28 PM
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It's more than a drop-in swap. Send a PM to wawuzit and ask him. His '38 coupe had been swapped to a 235 so he can likely give you some advise.


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Davis38 #290188 09/26/13 08:40 PM
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I had a 56 235 in my 38 coupe. It is a pretty easy drop in but there are a couple of problems.

1. Either the rear motor mount brace has to be modified or modify the oil pan in the 235. The engine is the same length but the oil pan on the 235 is about 3/4' to long by the shape of the pan.

2. The throttle linkage is made differently. I'm talking about the part the gas pedal rod connects to on the side of the block.

The 235 has a little bit more power and the waterpump does not have to be oiled like the 216. If you're doing it to have alot more power you might be disappointed.

The intake and exhaust manifolds will interchange .

check out this link.


http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap_216.htm

[Linked Image from i1302.photobucket.com]

Last edited by wawuzit; 09/26/13 08:44 PM.
wawuzit #290192 09/26/13 09:13 PM
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Davis38 Offline OP
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The main reason I am thinking of doing it is because my 216 just keeps giving me problems left and right. I was wondering if the 235 will allow me to do freeway speeds 75+ comfortably and if it will leak as badly as the 216 and hopefully it's more manageable

Davis38 #290196 09/26/13 09:22 PM
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75 plus cruising speed? I don't think so. Some will say yes,I say no. opinions vary.

235s do leak oil.Some say all of them leak. Replacing the drip/vent tube with a modern PCV valve will help alot. Just my opinion.

wawuzit #290202 09/26/13 10:15 PM
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The 216 and 235 are about the same engies with the same problems.
A 1953 and laer 235 with full preesure oiling and a 3.55 rear end will beable to cruise at 70 MPH for long distances....and will run up to 80+ for spurts. In their day they were driven at 75 MPH.
A 1953 Chevrolet with Power Glide won in the Mexican Road Race in the light car class. It was driven wide open through the mountains and deserts.


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Chev Nut #290204 09/26/13 10:19 PM
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"and a 3.55 rear end". I thought we were talking about engines.

wawuzit #290208 09/26/13 10:35 PM
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I thought we were talking about a 235 (or 216) engine and a 75 MPH cruising speed. You can not have a 75 MPH crusing speed without a tall rear gear.


Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #290209 09/26/13 10:37 PM
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"75 plus cruising speed? I don't think so."

Yep

wawuzit #290213 09/26/13 11:11 PM
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With a 3.55 gear the engine would be turning about 3200 RPM at 75 MPH. A very safe engine speed for a "good" 235 engine.
I ran my 216 at 3200 -- to 3400 steady with no problems
If the engine isn't as new I woulldn't attempt it.
If this is a truck it will be a handful to keep on the road above 60 MPH.
Also over 65 MPH can be some what unsafe for any old car.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 09/26/13 11:13 PM.

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wawuzit #290214 09/26/13 11:12 PM
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I think there might be some concern about driving a "fat fendered" car that fast.
I have experienced a slight amount of lift at that speed in my 37 pick-up due to the head wind entering that large open area under the front fenders. Steering becomes very touchy and it really doesn't feel all that good at 75! It makes me think 60 is better!!
Be careful! There are reasons why some things shouldn't be.


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70 is the fastest I like to drive my 37 p/u,even being lowered a little it still feels a little top heavy and a car might be a little different but they were not designed to go very fast for a long period of time back then. Even my rebuilt 235 leaks a little and if you decide to go with a 235 try to find a 54 motor as the 55 to 62 motors have the water pump lower in the block which will require a short pump,if you have to go with the newer 235 there is a adapter made to mount the 54 and back water pump to the newer motor.


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I have a 37 chevy, 216 MD with a 4.22 rear end in it. Can any one tell me what the reasoning was behind this? I mean, I can see it in a truck but not a car. When I'm going down the road with it at 45 MPH the engine sounds like it wants to fly out from under the hood. Where can I get a 3.55 gear for it ? Thanks,
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Joe's 37 #290233 09/27/13 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe's 37
I have a 37 chevy, 216 MD with a 4.22 rear end in it. Can any one tell me what the reasoning was behind this? I mean, I can see it in a truck but not a car. When I'm going down the road with it at 45 MPH the engine sounds like it wants to fly out from under the hood. Where can I get a 3.55 gear for it ? Thanks,
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In 1937 most roads were dirt. The MD with the lower gear provided faster acceleration which was seen at the time as an advantage. Top speed wasn't a priority because the roads didn't allow for high speed driving. I believe Patrick's sells conversion kits as does Chevs of the 40s.




Last edited by Tiny; 09/27/13 08:07 AM.

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Tiny #290235 09/27/13 08:18 AM
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A more modern 235 will give a significant boost in horse power. I recently rode with a friend on a 1000 mile journey in his 1953 Chev panel. It had a 261 (235 big brother) and the 3:55 gears in the rear. We cruised at 70 to 75 for hours with no problems. Although it is a 53, the comparison of the drivetrain and highway speeds is relevant.

If you do go the 235 route, you will probably need to use the flywheel from the 235 as I don't think the older flywheel will bolt on.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Tiny #290237 09/27/13 08:42 AM
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I agree. Here's another problem with driving 75mph,since we're talking about this subject. Going 75 in a 37-38 model car with standard brakes is dangerous.Unless you live in the desert where the roads are straight as an arrow clear into the sunset,with no cars seen in the last 30 minutes,I'd think twice about going 75mph., you might have to STOP quickly.I got nervous at 65 mph. It sounded like I was going 90mph. But again,just my opinion.

wawuzit #290252 09/27/13 12:11 PM
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I put a 1954 *235 in my 39 . it's great . I also went 12 volt electric. frank

the39 #290278 09/27/13 08:36 PM
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If you want to stop an older Chevy, install a hydravac in-line booster. (You can hide 'em anywhere.) You'll be amazed!

Gaither #290357 09/29/13 06:56 AM
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hi gaither , where to buy & what is this booster ? thx. frank

the39 #290388 09/29/13 05:06 PM
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Frank, used to see 'em in some of the hotrod magazines. I think Advanced Auto has 'em. Or, you could search on line. Been around for years - and they do the job!

Davis38 #290490 09/30/13 03:58 PM
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Davis38 Offline OP
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In that case, are there any of the straight 6 engines that I can use that wont leak oil everywhere? Maybe a 250 or 292? That brake booster is an interesting idea, Ill have to look that up a bit more.

Thanks,
Davis

Davis38 #290494 09/30/13 05:42 PM
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I never had a GM motor that did not leak any oil.


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I never had a GM engine that leaked oil until I owned a 235.Some say all 216/235/261 engines leak oil,they may be right.

wawuzit #290497 09/30/13 05:59 PM
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I never had one that did not leak. Even in the heavy truck business I worked in the Detroit Diesel was know as the "Detroit Lubricator".


Steve D
m006840 #290498 09/30/13 06:15 PM
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Davis38 Offline OP
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Well, such is the way of the motor then. Thanks all, I will let you know if I end up changing the motor

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