Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#289455 09/16/13 07:47 PM
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holtzie Offline OP
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Hi all,
I have a 32 Chevy Generator cut-out that the contacts are sticking together. I start the car, it charges at 7.6 volts and when I try to turn the car off the engine stays running. I have to open the hood and pop the cover off the cut-out switch that is mounted to the generator and ply the contact points apart. Any clues?????

Thanks, frankie

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Hello frankie,
Don't know what to make of the ignition not turning off unless your ignition switch is hot all the time in all positions. Others should have some troubleshooting ideas for you to try, besides trying a different ignition switch.

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When you turn the electrolock off, the car should stop even if the points on the cut-out are stuck closed. Sounds like you have other issues.

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Somehow the coil is wired to the cut-out. Not sure how that happened or which wires are switched under that dash but apparently one or more are not on the right terminal.


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And....your cut-out might be sticking closed because of some incorrect wiring.

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holtzie Offline OP
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does it make a different what wire goes on what termial on the Amp meter?

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Yes. You might want to get a wiring diagram and then check the wiring to make sure that it is per the diagram.

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Frankie,
I noticed that you ARE a VCCA member... So, I'm going to update your privleges and add the logo to your profile.

Also, I just looked in the Members area and we have electrical diagrams for lots of years, incliding 1931 - but none for 1932. I think that '31 would be clsoe enough for you to begin your diagnosing.

Go to http://vcca.org/members/

After you log in, go to Resource Center.
Then click on Technical,
Then click on Electrical.

Lots of stuff in that area.



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Yep, the 1931 wiring diagram will work just fine for a 1932.

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holtzie Offline OP
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Thanks for the info on the wiring, but i looked at the wire diagram already and it is hard to follow. so i look at 29 and it look easyer. is it close?

Thanks, Frankie

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I would not use the 1929 wiring diagram. I would go with a 1930, 1931 or a 1932 wiring diagram. The diagrams that are about 8 1/2 x 11" are easy to follow.

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holtzie Offline OP
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I checked the wiring on my 32 with the wiring diagram on the VCCA website and I changed the wiring to match, but is there power(6 V) at the cut off switch at all times? Here is how I wired it. Does the wire that comes from the cut off switch at the generator go to the right side of the amp meter? and then does a wire go from the right side of the amp meter to the fused post of the light switch? and then does a wire go from the right side of the amp meter to the ignition switch? and the left side on the amp meter the wire comes of the starter positive post?

PS: I purchased the vehicle completely disassembled and all the wiring was cut and cracked, so I purchased a new original wire harness made for a 32 Chevrolet and it come wire the same wire diagram that in got off the VCCA website!!!!

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With the electrolock off, have you checked to see if the points in the cut-out on top of the generator are open or closed? They should be open. If they are closed then you probably have a defective cut-out and the current from the battery is draining back into your generator and melting the solder on the armature.

Is your generator hot to the touch with the electrolock off?

The wire the cames out of the generator housing goes to the "GEN" post on the cut-out. On the other end of the cut-out marked "BATT", that wire goes to the post on the back of the ammeter. The wire from the starter switch terminal goes to the other post on the back of the ammeter. A wire on the same post as the generator wire on the back of the ammeter goes to the fused post on the back of the light switch. A third wire on the same post on the back of the ammeter as the generator wire and the light switch wire goes to the "BATT" terminal on the side of the electrolock. A wire on the "Coil Gauge" terminal on the electrolock goes to the positive side of the coil. A wire from the negative side of the coil goes to the "Coil" terminal on the electrolock. And from the "Ignition" terminal on the back of the gas gauge a wire also goes to the "Coil Gauge" terminal on the electrolock.

From your description is sounds like you have everything wired correctly.

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holtzie Offline OP
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Thanks for the info. I checked, and with the electrolock off, I have power at the cut off switch wire that comes from the amp meter and the points are closed. If I disconnect the wire at the cut off the points open.

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With that scenario, your generator is cooking and the solder is melting in the armature. You probably have a defective cut-out. You need to disconnect the cut-out immediately and replace the cut-out to see if that fixes the problem.

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holtzie Offline OP
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Thanks for all the help, everyone that owns a Chevrolet are GREAT.

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I suspect the the cut-out is mounted backwards. The BAT terminal is attached to the wire coming out of the generator and the GEN terminal is attached to the wire from the ammeter. The power for the electromagnet in the cut-out should come from the generator. If it comes from the battery via the ammeter then the points will always be closed. The terminals may not be identified correctly or not have identification stamped in them or ??? But, if the cover is taken off then the terminal leading to the winding on the electromagnet can be determined.


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Quote
The BAT terminal is attached to the wire coming out of the generator and the GEN terminal is attached to the wire from the ammeter.


Just to clarify, the wiring route listed in the quotes above is backwards, which would cause the points to always be closed.

The "BATT" terminal is on the same side of the cut-out as the points in the cut-out.

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holtzie Offline OP
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Thanks Guys, that's what it was. The cut off was on backwards!!!! That's funny how something that easy to fix, can cause so much trouble.

Thanks again

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Great....glad that you found the problem. Also, you might want to check your generator to see if any solder melted on the armature while you had the problem of the cut-out points staying closed.

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Glad that fixed your problem. Getting parts on correctly is important to their proper function. Works the same with a diode if it is used to replace the points and electromagnet on a cutout. It must be installed correctly or will not work as intended.


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