Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#288244 09/03/13 06:59 AM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Okay, has anyone addressed the situation of just how tight the interior dimensions are on 32 Roadsters....I think I have far more room in my 26.....

I am going to be looking at constructing a lower seat bottom, and then considering what to do with the seat back....

Jay

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Hello Alfaromeo,
Do you mean to say 'constructing a lower style of the lower seat bottom'? Does your 32 Roadster have seats that are too tall for you, or do you not have seats and are needing to know what the stock seat measurements are, so that you'll have the numbers to start your seat project? If you have stock seats, does your head hit the top or your knees hit the steering wheel, or both? If both, overall lowering seems the way. If just the knees, maybe lowering just the front of the lower seat cushion would work. Sorry I don't know much about upholstry work.

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Hi Harry,

Its a combination of the seat being too high and too close.

If you take a 1929 through 1931 Roadster, they have quite a bit more room. And its all down to style, because Chevy has the top folding into a recessed area behind the seat in the 32, but it sacrifices interior room. The earlier cars have the top folding onto the rear deck area.

Now, I can build a new seat bottom but the seat back is too close still, so, I am going to see what alterations may be possible, you know, I doubt the top will be folded down much at all in my case....

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Hello Alfaromeo,
Because it's your 32 Roadster, I think that you should build a custom seat to fit both height and length. If you could preserve the stock seat for when you pass the car on to others, that would be a good thing. If you were to make a two part back that the upper half removes for when you have the top down, that might be something to think about. In the interest of safety, I would get your wife to test it out first before you risk it.

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I have the perfect solution. Trade that cramped '32 Roadster for a spacious '31 Roadster. Far better than chopping up a body (human and/or auto), learning contortion or tolerating pain.


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I have a 1932 chevrolet EXPERI-METAL INC catalogue from when they produced the repo all steel 32 roadster.

in the section " sub-structure group " continued parts #1100 thru 1149 page 33. they show the stock floor plus the stock seating and all its components including the top holding area. It does not say how wide this area behing the seat is. But if its 9--12" thats a significant gain.

The catalogue also shows the optional MODIFIED SEATING. There might be a 2" wide ledge behind the seat maximum . Panels are made to go straight down on the seat back area and the sides. This is going to give considerably more leg room but the loss of the ability to fold the top down.

Only other solution would be to add a TEA's or a Glide bench seat that slides forward to allow the top to fold down , when you want it down. Or bucket seats that slide.

mike ref

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Hi Mike,

That's great info. Experi-Metal certainly realized the limited space and were wise to offer a option.

I plan on retaining the seat contours as much as possible, I will most likely just be locating the seatback further aft, and a simple high density foam seat bottom is easy. Oddly, the seat is measuring some 39-40 inches across, while the seat in the 32 Coupe is measuring approx 37 inches....

I knew of Glide's offerings in seat frames, but am not familiar with TEA's.

Thanks Mike, I will send you a PM in a bit.

Ciao,

Jay

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A shame to modify that old Chevy. A good orthopedic surgeon could likely remove a couple of inches of leg bone and no one would even know LOL!

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Originally Posted by Gunsmoke
A shame to modify that old Chevy. A good orthopedic surgeon could likely remove a couple of inches of leg bone and no one would even know LOL!

Or the more sensibal , or they could cut the chassis in half add the extra foot needed, weld it back up. Take the doors and make a frame for the new 12" longer sheet metal out of angle iron, weld the metal to it. Then create the body line with 1" thick bondo. Just like carving a piece of wood EH ??? Coat the door skin with 1/2" of bondo and air file board it smooth.

There ya go, problem solved and our health care system did not have to pay one cent for it.

mike wizard

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I checked with the ortho surgeon, and while he is willing to remove some leg bone, he pointed out quite correctly, that I would end up either :

having the classic physique of a Italian, with short legs and v. long arms, then having to shorten the steering wheel shaft to move the steering wheel further away, or,

having a simian stature, of walking about, dragging my knuckles as I went, which can also be characteristic of the first example...

Anyway, the small amount of seat modification makes great sense to me, and will make it a pleasure to be driving this 32 Roadster. One thing I would like to point out, is how useful the cowl vent on the 32 Roadster is, allowing all that cool air into the cabin, blowing the heat away from the floorboards, its great. Wish the 1926 and 1928 Roadsters were so equipped, they can be rather hot to drive in the good ol summer time.

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Hi Jay,

Off the wall question for you, how tall are you? I'm 6'1" and don't have a problem driving my 32 roadster. Just wondering....maybe your car is put together wrong.


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I'm 6'2" and I don't have a beer belly, either, well, maybe a touch of a wine belly, ....

I have had the seat bottom out and the raised box section looks stock to me, etc....the seat bottom is a typical wood framed, springs, etc affair.

In contrast, my 28 roadster has the same sort of framing/construction, and the seat bottom feels like its in the right place, I am not sitting too high in it, etc. I did redo the seat back to a slimmer version, to get the space that way.

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Well now that is funny! I was not going to tell you that I had a Pepsi belly.....well I have lost 15 lbs's in the last couple of months.

I've driven a 28 roadster and you are right, it is much better. I have always thought it was our car since it has two layers of upholstery on it's seats, the original and the 60's stuff.


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Originally Posted by Alfaromeo
. One thing I would like to point out, is how useful the cowl vent on the 32 Roadster is, allowing all that cool air into the cabin, blowing the heat away from the floorboards, its great. Wish the 1926 and 1928 Roadsters were so equipped, they can be rather hot to drive in the good ol summer time.


alfa romero.......trick is too seal the firewall inside, using the insulation rolls you see at the swap meets. Its about 3/8" thich with a cellfoam type innner and aluminum foil on the outsides. Cut to shape and use auto upholstery spray glue to attach it. Probably have to remove heater and some other stuff temporarily to get really good fit.

now for the floor....get the recycled wool with aluminum on one side about 1/2" + thick and cut that to shape to cover the floor completely side to side, starting at bottom of firewall to behind the seat frame. pay special attention to the foot area of firewall on both sides where there are openings on the sides where hot air can pass on the sides.


I did it and worked for me in my 35 std coupe. I used both types on the floor.

mike carbana

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Thanks Mike,

I can look up those materials, maybe at Hershey next month.

Thanks,

Jay


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Originally Posted by Alfaromeo
Thanks Mike,

I can look up those materials, maybe at Hershey next month.

Thanks,

Jay

Also look at speed and custom = performance stores / shops. Ebay and on line places. Beats trying to walk around carlise/hershey with your arms full of stuff.
mike

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I am 6'4'' and as other members have mentioned .I have had a new seat cushion / base made which is approx 1-1/2"lower than the original seat . It works out OK . Note : I am keeping the original seat for the next owner whenever that may be . My 1930 Chevrolet Sport Roadster body was built by Holden Motor Bodies in Melbourne , Victoria - Australia .


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