VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Rocker Arm Oil Line

1940 (216) - When I lost the Timing gear, I also sustained valve damage, while removing the head, the oil line to the rocker assembly broke off where it enters the block, it seems to pass thru the water jacket. Anyway I now need to replace this line, not sure of the difficulty in doing this, it's obvious I have to remove the oil pan, but from there I'm lost. Any help, advise and or anything would be helpful...
Thanks,
Wes Marquis

By pan do you mean the lifter cover on the side of the engine from the sparkplugs down to close to the distributor?
I think that is where the rocker oil line is connected, at least it is on a 235

Mr Mack, That's the one

With the side panel and the head off, the line should not be too diffucult to disconnect and remove. However there is always that Murphy's Law to consider... If you don't have a shop repair manual you should seriously consider purchaseing one from one of the vendors mentioned frequently here, The Filling Station or Chevys of the Fortys, both have online catalogs and online ordering.

I am sure you have seen some postings from some of our resident gurus here also, like Chevnut and JYD.

Mr Mack, I have both a shop manual and a Motors Manual. They don't go into detail on this particular problem, I'm assuming the line goes into the block and to the oil pump or there abouts...

It should be attached to the engine block in the area near the lifters.

That' where the line broke off, about 1/8 inch is sticking out of the block.

oil pipe . this line goes thru the block . it has a soldered pipe fitting on it . this pipe is copper and came straight from dealers. feed it thru the block bend upwards connect to rocker arm fitting. the other end connects to the distributer check valve on the side of the block .its purpose is to direct oil the rocker arms. especialy on a cold engine . the side valve cover will have to be removed to do this/. remove intake and exhaust manifold also .i have these nos at $20.00 ea. plus shipping

Thanks all, I guess I didn't explain my problem very well, I'll just pull the oil pan and see what I've got.

The oil line with the correct fittings is available from Chevs of the '40's-part #609912-$11.75.

The original line had the fitting soldered on.The replacement Chevrolet line when it was still available as well as the present Chevs of the '40's line uses compression fittings so the soldered fitting is not necessary and it makes the line eaiser to install.

On a 1940 the line begins just behind the oil pressure regulator on the LEFT side of the block.From there it curls up to just below the rear side freeze plug-passes inside the block between the cylinders and comes out behind the push rod cover on the right side.From there it runs up to the rocker arm connector.The fittings must be installed correctly to prevent a coolant leak on either side of the block as that area of the block is filled with coolant.Also be careful so it does not contact the push rods.
When the line is straight it can be inserted thru the block .Insert from the right side and install fittings and bend as necessary on the left side first.The copper tubing will bend very easily.

Thanks, Chevgene,

Is this installed with the oil pan off ? I'll purchase from Chev's of the 4o's..

The side cover pan must be removed-oil pan not....

Thanks, I guess I'm set, It's ordered.

whmarquis, I just recently ordered from Chevs of the 40s, and installed rocker arm oil line. All written before was correct, only side cover has to be off, not oil pan. Don't be dismayed as kit is wound copper line and assorted nuts and ferrules--- astightly wound as it looks, mine straightened well. Cut off and save as a template the first 4" or so of pipie from the oil distributor valve. Make your first bend to match this. Use teflon pipe compound, paste, wher nut tightens into block. insert through block, attach to oil distributor valve and then go to other side to bend, carefully end up through cylinder head and to union on top. I bent this first, then installed head leading copper pipe through opening. If your head is on it may be differant. I do remember the original pipe was soldered and somewhat wider through block ----new piece stabbed right through for me. I dont think you could repair break in line like you had without reducing flow through repair. Good Luck to ya!!! Chevy40

A warning on the oil line. Make sure it is not touching any of the pushrods or:

and make sure it doesn't rest against the side cover. The strange noise will drive you nuts.

that picture is worth ten-thousand words!!!!!!! Look at the crimp on the nut end tube!! Can you say " Oil deprivation ? " Chevy40

You've all made my day, I was worried sick until I posted and thank goodness I waited for responses before pulling things apart. Your all the greatest...
Many, Many Thanks..