VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Clutch pilot bearing--1940 216

Got my transmission all wrapped up- Wire brushed it well and put on a light coat of exterior poly to keep it unpainted as previosly discussed. looks good but I just cant put it on engine with out replacing clutch pilot bearing at end of crank. The bearing retainer appears to be pressed into the flywheel. If I take off flywheel, I havent bent over locking tabs yet, can I get at the caged bearing and remove it easily? The shop manual speaks of a K-445 puller to do this, but I could take off the flywheel easier than try to locate tool. Also! Chevs of the 40s ,page 97 has one for 39, but do not appear to sell one for a 40. Any sugges. for a source for one for my 1940? Hints on install? Many thanks, Chevy40

I would try to call them on the phone (Filling Station or Chevys of the Fortys), I am sure they will be able to help, have you checked the casting numbers on the engine to be sure which engine you have, they probably will ask.

The pilot bearing (bushing) can be removed with a universal pilot bearing puller.Its a very thin jaw type puller.....OR.....The opening in the center of the bearing can be packed with grease.Then using a round shaft the size of the opening-just so it enters-drive the shaft into the opening and the bearing will be forced out. :)

The 1940 should not have a caged type roller bearing-the bushing type entered production in mid 1939.The caged type can be pryed out.

Thanks for clearing that up, Gene, that is why I asked Chevy 40 about the casting numbers on the engine (whether it had a caged bearing or a bushing). Also there is no need to remove the flywheel, since the bushing is installed in a recess in the end of the crankshaft. If you don't want to use grease I have used a tap to cut threads in the bushing (if it is to be replaced and then screw a bolt into the bushing it will pass thru the bushing and when bottoms out in the crankshaft it will either push the bushing straight out or it will turn it and loosen the bushing in the crankshaft, or you can use the bolt head to pull on the bushing, that is what I have found is the best way to pull even the most stubborn ones. Also you will need a pilot tool to set the clutch disc in position to stab the transmission, I bought a plastic one from either Chevys of the Fortys or The Filling Station for a few bucks well spent.

On the pilot bearing for the 1940 I just purchased a NORS bearing at my local Advance Auto Parts Store. It looks like a bronze oil impregnated bearing with no moveable parts, just one solid piece of metal. Do not put in the old style roller bearing in the crankshaft. Once that style of bearing runs dry, there is no way to grease it again without pulling out the transmission.

That same bearing was used from 1940 up thru the '90's.

Thanks for the responses. My engine is # 3500893. I am pretty sure it is original to my car. My crank does have a caged type roller bearing. It is retained by a about half-dollar size disc with flared edges yes, after looking more closely, pressed into the crank. How do I get this retainer out? I gather the new pilot will be of the bushing design. Good to know. I have an Advance Auto parts about 15 miles from my home. Thanks for the help, Chevy40

Are the bronze replacement pilot bearings available for 1934 Master?

No, from the info. that I have the caged bearing was used from 1931 thru 1939 except the 1933-34 Standards.Some late '39's had the bronze bearing as well as everything from 1940 and up..The hole in the crank is of a different size for the bronze.The caged bearing never was troublesome.

Also a retainer and spring is listed for the 1940 thru 1946 bronze pilot bearing which is not required when a later bronze bearing is installed .When chevy40 gets the retainer out I believe that he will find a bronze bearing in there.

O K Now I am a little concerned--- I can (and have) insert a dental pick into end of crank past retainer and roll the linear bearings around. I have also scraped grease from in between rollers to be sure they are indeed rollers. The bronze bearing(really a bushing) has no rollers, correct? If the caged bearing was not troublesome, then maybe I should grease and leave alone. My car has 75000 on the odometer. As asked previously, what is the best way to remove retainer? Thanks, Chevy40

A correction- I looked up the 1947 new product features.The 1947 was the first to use the bronze bushing (of the later years)...The 1939-46 used a caged bearing with the retainer etc.The replacement for that set up is the bronze bushing type with no other parts used ...the parts book wasn't too clear in that department.Packing the present bearing with a good hi-temp wheel bearing grease would probably be sufficent for another 50 years.

Other than that I have no idea on the retainer removal except due to the fact that it wouldn't be used with the bushing damaging it would pose no problem.

Thanks for the research, Chevgene. I think to remove retainer I will drill two opposite holes in same and insert two sheetmetal screws tightly , and use some sort of slide hammer tool to remove. Since this will not be used again, I will use " Gorilla" finesse to get it out. I will then replace with new bronze part. The more I turned original roller bearing the more black crap was brought up, and the more resolved I became to replace. Don't tell anyone my pilot bearing is not original!!! That's between you and me!!! Grateful as always for the help, Chevy40

Chevy40
By what chev nut said with a retainer it will probably be a circlip type piece set into a groove inside the crankshaft. Have a good scratch around the outer edge of the retainer plate for a edge (it may be a square section or round). It is bound to have a gap to allow the ends to close in and slip out of the groove. This clip is likely to bounce on the floor so be prepared to catch it.
Tony

There are no clips or snap rings holding the pilot bearing in place. Just pry out the old bearing the best way you can.

Had the time to work on Ol Blue today and thought an update was appropriate. I removed old retainer with a 20" piece of 7/16" rod that I used my cut-off tool to groove- Like the top of a valve, only smaller crown, placed in between retainer and roller bearing and struke with a slide hammer. Came out easy for 60+ years! Roller bearing came out easier. 8 roller- 4 pylon- One pylon stamped " Made in u.s.a." No other part # Retainer was easily pounded back to good. Roller bearing was cleaned in the under side of a spray can lid filled with brakleen--- looks sloppy and not to be returned to end of crank. I will look for a new roller bearing from sources, but may have to go to bushing design. This was all done with flywheel attached. I promise pics before i set 216 back home. Chevy40

I had a stubborn bronze bushing that broke the puller at the fingers. I filled the bushing and crank with grease and drove an old clutch shaft from a bad transmission in to it with a sledge hammer. I added more grease and out it came like a hydraulic jack. .
. I use a sealed ball bearing on the Chevys that require them.

If you get a really stubborn pilot bushing try tapping the bushing all the way thru with a tap just larger than the i.d. and screw a bolt in the bushing until it goes thru the bushing and bottoms out on the crankshaft, keep turning the bolt and it will push the bushing out, or when it bottoms out you can work it back and forth and it will come out, if the bronze strips out go up another bolt size and before long you will GITTER DONE!

For removing the bronze bushing, I use a ground bolt after filling the cavity with grease. It always works for me.

A ten year old post has been resurrected.

Bob,

Now that right there is funny! I hadn't noticed. Wow!

Good catch,
Charlie

So I appear to be the one that awakened the old post. Something funny happened here. The post was listed along with all the latest ones. It was not from a search.

I think we all should reawaken our favorite Charlie post!!!

Thanks, Mike

One thing that we have to remember about the pilot bearing/bushing is that it is like the clutch plate and throw-out bearing, it only gets wear when the clutch is released/disengaged when one presses the clutch pedal down. Otherwise it just sits there turning in sync with the crankshaft and transmission main drive gear. And thus will last a long time.

(Hmm, somebody help me out here. I think the above is right. Is it? I'm trying to visualize the mechanics of the engine/clutch/transmission operations. At my age things start to get a little fuzzy. Sorry. )

Charlie

I agree with that description Charlie.

Transmission input shaft is stationary, whether clutch pedal is depressed, or not depressed. The bronze pilot bushing is an alignment guide/support for the input shaft.