Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Rustoholic #285556 08/04/13 03:06 PM
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Dean,
Why did you name it "Justin"?

Originally Posted by rustoholic


~Justin

Grandad's 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Originally Posted by 37ChevTruck
If anyone is near SE Wisconsin in 3 weeks, I'll post an invite to the "truck delivery / brisket" day!

Where was this offer when we were in Lake Geneva in June? Just kidding. I don't suppose I could get you to bring some of that brisket to Kansas could I??? beermugs


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Originally Posted by 37ChevTruck
Hi Brewster,
Thank you. Great question. As you can tell from the plates, the truck hasn't run since '69 and I wasn't around then to see it. #youngbuck?

I guess I am still sorting it out. At this point in time I would say, "How grandpa run it!"

I want to drive it occasionally and not so interested in a trailer queen but okay with trying to keep it a 6 volt system.... Does that answer your question?

I have the original block (along with some spares) and tranny. So the first step is to get it running and operational. I would consider an upgrade to the brakes and moving the fuel tank, but not much else at this point in time.

Besides, according to my sources, originally the truck was red with black running boards. The story of the green paint has to due with a scorned woman, bucket of green paint, a paint brush and a long weekend... Always wondered why grandma's house, shed, garage and "the old truck" we're the same color. I would hate to lose that story!

What kind of upgrades are acceptable to something like this?

The original block will have a serial number beginning with a K. The matching head will, have the same serial number but without the K.

Looks like you may have a 1938 fuel tank, or a modification, as the filler for a 1937 was under the passenger seat, not outside the cab.

You should have no problems keeping it 6 volt either.

If you have a 3 speed tranny, near all the internals are the same as a car, except for the output shaft. Gears and shafts are easy to come by. Based on my experience, use only GM gears, not aftermarket, as I found they are not machined a accurately as GM did.

The hydraulic brakes work fine on a stock 37...mine do, but you will most likely need ALL new parts...master cylinder (resleeved if pitted), brake lines, shoes and wheel cylinders. The only thing not readily available are drums, but unless yours are trash, get them turned.

The really isn't much room elsewhere for the fuel tank. If you find a spot under the bed, it will probably hang too low and below the manual fuel pump, thus requiring and electric fuel pump.

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Regarding the name 'Justin', I named the truck after the previous owner who pulled the truck in from a barn and tinkered on it for over 50 years before passing away. Unfortunately, he never got it running.

I was blessed to be able to buy it from the family. I got to know them a little and shared my story of my other truck, Lurch (1927 LM 1 ton cattle truck - see the links below). They wanted someone to take on the project and not hot rod it, which I would never do.

After two years of researching and fixing stuff, I got it running. I'm still working out the kinks, but 'Justin' is alive and kicking. ;-)

I'm into survivors. I call myself an era-reconstructionist.

Cheers, Dean



Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Rustoholic #285587 08/04/13 11:13 PM
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Justin,
Give it a bath, a brake job, and a tune-up and take your boys for a ride.
If my Grandpa drove that truck like it is, I would drive it like it is.
Mike

'27,'28,'36,'38,'39,'40,'41,'42,'46 '59,'71,'72 Chevy trucks


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Morning everyone,

My Dad sent me a copy if the title from when the truck was transferred from grandma to himself. Please take a look at the serial and motor number in the top right. What can we know from this information?

5GC05-8341-Serial
K758 610-Motor

[Linked Image from i1318.photobucket.com]


~Justin

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Serial Number:
5-Made in Kansas City
GC- Half ton pickup
05-Made in May of '37
8341-The 7341st off the line.

May be the original engine, the K is for a half ton engine.

Last edited by Tiny; 08/06/13 09:33 AM.

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Tiny #285789 08/06/13 02:48 PM
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Thanks Tiny.


~Justin

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How did the 1937 date get altered? Curious

wawuzit #285833 08/06/13 10:28 PM
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The first time I have seen this document. I am not sure. I noticed it as well. A typo?

Originally Posted by wawuzit
How did the 1937 date get altered? Curious


~Justin

Grandad's 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
"Wylburr Clyde"
Pictures of Clyde
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I wanted to provide an update and ask a technical question.

Update:
Due to circumstances beyond my control, the truck will remain in Wyoming for one more winter. It has been covered with a very large, thick tarp and will remain on my sister's property until we head out in May.

After talking with my Dad, I have learned a bit more about the truck.

Grandpa drove semis most of his short life (died in '64). Dad believes the bumpers were made by a co-worker at one of the companies where he drove truck.

Dad remembers the gas tank being changed in the late 50s or early 60s. The original tank is there somewhere. They put in a bottom seat from a '32 (he believes) because the original didn't fit any longer.

I asked Dad why he stopped driving the truck and he said, "'cause I joined the service." After four years sitting in the garage he tried to start it. When it didn't start he just let it sit. He said, "I just never felt like messing with it." How I wish I would have known that in high school!

Here is the technical question:
If the truck ran when it was parked in '69, a tune-up is in order before it will run again. What needs to be checked, repaired, or cleaned before we try to start it up?

The current plan is to get the truck here in mid-May. What are the odds I can get the truck running in two weeks so I can take Dad for a ride while he is in town for my daughter's high school graduation?

Last edited by 37ChevTruck; 11/05/13 01:47 PM.

~Justin

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Thats is an awful long time to sit unused, especially with out proper storage. You can count on the entire fuel system as needing a lot of work. Same for the brakes and cooling system. The pistons could be rusted tight to the cylinder wall, valves stuck in their guides and more. It will not be just a tune-up and run project.


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I would make sure the tarp you put over the truck doest touch any of the body as it will hurry the corrosion until you get it into the garage.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
You can count on the entire fuel system as needing a lot of work.
X2!! This is what happens when you run your engine without proper prep of the fuel system after sitting for a long time.



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Big week here, on Sunday I will be traveling from SE Wisconsin to SW Wyoming to pick up our 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton.

I'm the third generation owner, grandpa bought it new.

Truck was parked in '68 when Dad joined the Navy and hasn't been driven since.

I'll post more pics as we find stuff next week.



~Justin

Grandad's 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
"Wylburr Clyde"
Pictures of Clyde
Tiny #308039 05/13/14 07:44 PM
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Tiny,

Did the serial number start out with the first car of the year as 1000 or 1001?

Charlie computer

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1001


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