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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Can someone explain to me how to properly install the manifold heat valve spring? I know hot to slip it on and where it goes...but which way does it wind? Does the tail of it rest against the front of the peg or on the back side of the peg? Is it wound clock-wise or counter-clock-wise?
My problem...the valve is rotated toward the top and toward the out side of the manifold. However, it stays there whether it's cold or hot. I can push it toward the bottom and toward the inside but the spring pops it back to the top and outside. I currently have the spring wound counter-clock-wise with the tail on the outside of the peg. Do I have it backwards? Pictures would help greatly too:)
Brandon Hughett Powell, TN 1941 2-dr Town Sedan
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I'm not sure if that's the same spring. The page you refer to is talking about adding an anti-rattle spring. The page before talks about adding the thermostatic spring. I think I'm seeing that it's wound counter-clockwise...I think. That is the way I have mine but it's not turning off after it heats up.
Brandon Hughett Powell, TN 1941 2-dr Town Sedan
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Hall Monitor ChatMaster - 7,000
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Hall Monitor ChatMaster - 7,000
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This shows the heat riser and anti-rattle springs. FWIW I don't have the spring on mine. I have it locked in the heat off position. Been that way for years without issue. When I got the car it was frozen in the heat on position and caused driveability issues. I got it freed up enough to move by hand but not enough for the spring to work so I jammed it into the warm engine/heat off position and left it.
Last edited by Tiny; 07/27/13 10:23 AM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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The anti-rattle spring was never installed at the factory. It was sold trough parts to cure a heat riser rattle that was not common.
Gene Schneider
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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With it locked open you just need to tickle the choke a little longer on start up...had a manifold blow through exhaust to inlet... that was a tricky one to fix .. brazed steel plate to cast iron .. plenty heat needed .. vacuum loss .. fixed the wipers too...
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Hi Mike, I have been busy for a while so didn't post an answer. I think the fact that your spring is not making the riser open or close properly is caused by corrosion on the shaft of the heat riser. By doing an Advanced Search using the phrase in quotes "41 heat riser" you should come across the articles on our last discussion 6-21-12 on this topic. Use the Date Range as Newer Than 2 years and Older Than 1 year. This is what I said:
"Hi Sid, Please no beating!!! You should be able to fix the problem with out removing the manifold. Take a small brass hammer and starting on the end with the heat riser spring lightly tap on the end of the shaft. Try doing it about 10 times then tap on the other end of the shaft next to the heat riser about 10 times. Eventually you will notice that the shaft is moving back and forth about 1/4 of an inch. When it seems that you could almost move the shaft right to left by hand then try turning the riser up and down. This also could be done with a little taping on the bottom of the riser then on the top. Eventually the riser should move easily up and down and you should feel the spring tension wanting to close the riser and keep it closed. If the spring is working then the riser will open when the spring is hot. If you decide to beat on the end of the shaft you will end up flatting the end of the shaft where the spring fits in a groove and it will complicate removing or installing the spring. Reestablishing a working groove for the spring is a bit more complicated. I use an old knife blade to pry the groove back open. If you remember who the Pointer Sisters are then you know about the "slow hand routine" working out best. The riser shaft is not lubricated so friction or the lack of a lot of friction is what keeps the part working well. It probably is a good idea to test your heat riser several times a year to see how it is working. New springs are available from Chevs of the 40's."
Hopefully, you have already solved the problem, but other Chatter's might be helped by my answer. Thanks, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hi Mike,
The heat valve is loose and free. I made some adjustments to the spring but haven't gotten to see if it fixed it or not. I was starting to wonder if I had installed the spring backwards or something.
Hope you're doing well.
Brandon Hughett Powell, TN 1941 2-dr Town Sedan
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