VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Sorting out the '34

That makes sense. How does one go about getting the mixture right? I've turned that screw up to two turns with no noticeable difference. Right now it's at factory setting of 1/2 to one turn.

The miss is gone and I'm sure if I'd held it it would have crept to over 60.

If it idles smoothly then don't worry about it. If you have a rough idle then try to clean out the passages in the carburetor. Blow every opening you can get to with air, both ways if possible. Squirt carburetor cleaner in them as well. If that does not work then you might have to send it off to an experienced rebuilder.

Now that we're crowding 180 miles, I decided to get down and under to check for loose stuff and to try and take up what appeared to be 3-6 inches of slack in the steering. Turns out there was movement where the steering arm goes through the king pin housing. Tried to tighten it but it wouldn't. Took off the big nut and inserted a large washer. That did it. It had been bottoming out on the threads. Probably a result of my mix & match.

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That was also why my alignment appeared to change for no reason. I also found where the knees are leaking from, it is the shock covers. Any ideas on how to seal that?

Dumb question here Chipper, I suppose I do that with the carb off the engine? I'm not sure if you can call it a rough idle. There is very little vibration but the exhaust sound isn't regular. Valve adjustment?

I would first check each spark plug. Are any a different color? Or have build up on the electrode? While at it run a compression check hot. That should tell if you have a valve problem. In most cases it is not the carburetor but something else.

Hey Pat,

Be careful with the early Knees! That packing nut comes off from what I have been told. That is why GM changed to a hex number later in the year.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-1935-1...ries&hash=item2c708cb480&vxp=mtr
This is a seal kit on ebay, Pat.

Hi Bruce, mine look safe and sound and don't leak there.

That is where I got my original one. Had to go from SC to AZ before coming here, that guy doesn't ship to Canada.

Looked in the differential Happy to find out it wasn't overfilled with oil from up front. But, there is always a but, the oil looks foamy. Is that bad?




Also, I had adjusted all the doors but the driver's door now rubs at the top and sags a bit. I suppose I could give the front bolt a few cranks but I'm afraid it might pop some of the filler in the roof. Any thoughts?

Pat if the door is rubbing at the top, you cannot shim the body to the frame bolt on frame in middle of the door, to lift the door up, to get body lines too line up, only going to make the rubbing worse.

But if the door is rubbing on the side of post, does it look like shimming door up slightly will move the door slightly up & away from the post. It will also align the body seams.

mike

Mike, it is rubbing at the top of the lock pillar. I had it lined up but maybe we lost something along the way or it settled during the rides. I'm just worried that pulling down on the front bolt might stress the body & crack the filler above the door.

I guess if you feel the danger is there, then leave it alone.

The very slight mis-alignment of the body lines , thats easy enough to live with. If it was down 3/8---1/2" now thats very noticable.

mike

Hi Pat: The leak you showed photos is an easy fix. Take the covers off, discard the cork gasket, clean the surfaces well with brake parts cleaner, and apply a small bead of "Right Stuff" silicone sealer. Be sure it is "Right Stuff". Let the sealer dry for a couple days, then using a single edge razor blade, trim off the outside bead keeping the blade flat against the cover. Top off the fluid. End of story. JIM.

Hi Jim, Tried one with the Blue stuff. Didn't work. I guess I should have listened to you and bought some "Right Stuff". Those covers are not bad to take off but a pain to put back on. Maybe all that fussing damaged the silicone bead. One thing I might have done wrong, is not waiting for a couple of days.

Hi Pat, I just wanted to add my opinion of the Blue stuff. Jim is 100% on when he says to use the "Right Stuff". I have seen a lot of engine failures when people used the blue stuff-mostly because of improper application , however in the shop I worked at the blue stuff was referred to as the "Blue S#*t".

Now Jim, is this the correct "right stuff"? While I was at it I bought a gun similar to the one on the shop manual to put the oil back in.

Finally getting around to starting on the To-Do list. First item is to install a fire extinguisher in the trunk. I can't bring myself to drill into anything so I'll mount it on a piece of wood which will be either velcroed or carpet taped to the trunk floor. I have a piece of willow left over from a previous project which will do the job.

The raw board,


After sanding & routing,


After one coat of pre-stain conditioner,

that's a fantastic piece of wood......willow you say..........2 thumbs up from here !!!

I also bought a tube of right stuff......to use on intake manifold ends of a small block chevy. Gotta be quick getting things together , label said 5-6 minutes is all you have to assemble parts.

mike

I've had some suggestions to put the extinguisher inside the passenger compartment in case a fire develops at the rear or if it takes too long to get out, open the trunk, and take it out. I'm open to suggestions. I hate to drill into anything.

I keep mine under the passenger seat. I was having fun some years ago honking the horn for folks as I passed by. Then I smelled smoke. Opened the hood to find the grease and oil around the horn wire (before I restored the engine) had caught fire. It was a quick trip to the passenger seat and returned to put it out. A fire ext. is a must. You never know when it will come in handy to save your "baby".

That sounds like a good idea.

Attacked the leaky knee. Removed the two shocks and placed them on the confusion avoider. Stuck a piece of paper towel in the housing to wick up the oil to a lever below the bottom bolt hole.

Cleaned up all the mating surfaces. Last time it had been a challenge to collapse the springs and attach the bolts So I threaded some 3" bolts all the way and "pushed" the caps on. Used some "Right Stuff" as per Jim Hogan and will let it sit for a couple of days as he says and then trim off the excess and refill. Everyone please pray they don't leak.

Pat excellent fix it right.

Next time get some long studs with allen key sockets in the ends, snug them up and get right size nylocks and torque them to a specified torque and you should not have to play with them for a long time.

Everybody says this new RIGHT STUFF is a great product.

mike