VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Sorting out the '34

Took it to a shop to get the alignment (toe-in) verified and corrected. The machine that goes on the wheels doesn't clear the fenders. So he measured it by hand, 1/4 to 3/8.He thinks that is close enough. I think that will likely lead to scrubbing. I'll try and get it to 1/8.



The new condenser didn't seem to alleviate the miss at 40-45 mph. I'll install the rest of the tune up kit anyway. I wonder if I tried a new coil? Could it be missing on account of not getting enough gas as well?

The miss can be due to several things. Do you get popping or just a miss? If it is fuel generally you will get the typical popping from lean burn. Also normally if fuel starvation then the engine will noticeably slow down before picking back up. Weak valve spring(s), points bouncing, carburetor not coordinated are other possibilities.

I'm not sure what you mean by a pop, I did get a single backfire a few times when letting up from full throttle.

Weak valve springs are possible, I reused the old ones. Who sells new ones?

How do I correct or prevent points from bouncing?

By coordination of the carb , do you mean linkage adjustment?

Sorry for all the questions.

Pop or backfire are same by my way of expressing. I have some orange valve springs that might be '34-'35. Would need to check against specs to be sure.

Bouncing points are due to a weak spring on the movable point arm.

Yes I am referring to adjusting the rod from throttle arm to coordinator. If it is not adjusted properly the carburetor will either be too rich or too lean at some given speeds. Other speeds will be okay.

Thanks Chipper. I'll change the points too so that should eliminate that possibility. Would the carb rebuilder do that coordination as a matter of fact or is that something I have to do? If it is something I was supposed to do, then I am in trouble.

The rebuilder should have coordinated the carburetor. It takes a special gauge to set it right. Some rebuilders don't have the gauge. Anyone the specializes in W-1 carbs should have a gauge. They also should have the correct replacement parts. I have seen several W-1 carburetors with incorrect parts that don't run well at all. I have a few that I can't make run right. Don't know why, yet! Still learning!!!!!even after rebuilding a bunch of them.

Chipper,if I sent it to you, could you tell if it has incorrect parts?

I also have this one which is, I believe, a factory supplied replacement for the other one.

Yes,
The Boss still tells me we have a spare room and plenty of old Chevys to work on when the snow begins to fly.

Pat,
Are those your winter tires stacked in the foreground of the photo?

Mike

It snows in Texas?

I think they are big off-road pickup tires on fancy rims.

Pat, the carburetor pictured is a later model ca. 1941-48. Has the double bend accelerator arm that fits '37 and later. '36 and earlier use straight arm.

Chipper, assuming we eventually narrow it down to the carb and I want to change it, would the arm or arm/shaft combination be interchangeable? It actually was on the engine I bought that was in this coach.

It can be made to work but, be cautious about interference and potential sticking of linkage.

My problem with the carb on the 34 is the bowl cover pivot point needs to be bushed. That is why I was having all kinds of popping before Flint....figured that out and over adjusted the carb to make it work. Just need to get in there now and make it work correct before I try driving it more this summer.

Bruce

Is it possible you have a valve adjusted too tight?I would think if all your electrical parts are working fine and you get popping through the carb,you may have an intake valve too tight.

I installed the rest of the tune up kit today. There is quite a difference in the tension of the breaker point spring. Didn't have time to pick it up as my cousin's son in law came and picked it up to bring it to the family reunion we are having tomorrow. I'll have to drive it about 6 miles tomorrow morning. We'll see then.

If you get any popping or backfire try to determine if it's thru the carb or out the exhaust. That would help to determine the possible cause.

I'm pretty sure it is out back.

This is what his garage looks like. I'll drive it from there to the reunion later. The reunion is taking place in a community halkl which was the grade school I went to.

Here's another shot.

Thank you Chipper. Turns out the points were the culprit. When I drove the 7 miles or so to the reunion I had a searing 55 mph run followed by the Vauxhall and the Chrysler. There were about 150 people there spanning 4 generations. At least 30 remembered the old car sitting in the field or had played in it as children. One of my uncles had actually ridden in it in the late 40's. We recreated a scene of him sitting in his own '34 Master coach in 1950 when he was 22. Now 85, he had a bit of a problem assuming the same position due to the shorter window but he was a good sport about it.

Pat, it is a shame you obviously aren't having any fun!!!

That sure is a shaarrp coupe!

I've had too many sets of points that caused missing under acceleration or high speed once they have been run and/or stored for a while. I think it is the slight amount of oxidation on points that coupled with short duration of point contact that produces a weaker spark. Of course the acceleration problem is the richer mixture that needs a stronger spark to complete the burn quickly.