VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1929-31 Push Rod Gasket Set

Wondering how many people install and use the round gaskets that go around the Spark Plug. Also what is the trick to get them to stay and NOT fall down inside ??

Any Pictures would be greatly appreciated as well.

I used Permatex 2.....Worked great,

Mac

With the Cork Gaskets installed around the Plugs, can you remove the plugs With out damaging or Removing the Gaskets ?? If so how did you accomplish this ?? I was unable to get my socket around the plugs ot remove them with the Gaskets installed.

If the ID of the cork ring fits around the lip on the inside of the push rod cover there shouldn't be a problem. Have your cork rings shrunk?

It is als worth knowing that the 1929 motor shouldn't have the cork seals around the spark plug opening as there are no vents in the rocker cover on a 29 and the motor is designed to vent around the spark plugs.

That is not completely true. Only the early 1929 engines did not have seals around the spark plug openings and the early valve cover did not have any vents. The engine vented around the spark plug openings. However, the late 1929 engines used a vented valve cover and a different push rod cover with seals around the spark plug openings.

With the seals in place the spark plugs can be removed on all late 1929 through 1932 engines.

Ok, here are some photos of what I have, this is how hte previous owner set up and installed the gaskets around the plugs. Doing it this way the gasket pretty much touches the points on the hex of the plugs, they are AC Delco C86 Plugs.

Let me know if this is right installtion method, or how they should be properly installed.

1929-31 Push Rod Gasket Set 01
1929-31 Push Rod Gasket Set 02

The gaskets fit on the inside of the cover and there should be a lip built into the cover that they fit over.

The photos show an early '29 side cover and valve cover. The cork gaskets were not used with those parts. If you have a vented valve cover then a side cover with internal ridge held the circular cork gaskets with enough space for the spark plug wrench.

As mentioned above, the seals go on the inside of the push rod cover and not on the outside. And, the push rod cover that you have is an early design so it doesn't use any seals because the engine is vented around the spark plugs.

Also, in late 1929 and in 1930 the seals were not cork, they were felt.

OK, that would explain a lot, he said he had to use a spot of silicone to hold them in place so that they would not fall in. and I know that I could NOT get my socket in there with the Gaskets in place. Had to remove the plug wires, pull the cover off, then pull the plugs. also had to remove/ loosen the valve cover as well since it overlaps the push rod cover.

So basically I need to remove the Plug Hole gaskets clean up the silicone around the holes. Then reinstall the cover with OUT the Gaskets in the holes for the Spark Plugs.

Is this Correct ?? Anything Else I should do or tend to as well.

Yes.

Think you got the picture now. It is sometimes hard to understand why you have extra parts in a gasket set. Feel that each was put there for a purpose. It was, to cover several year applications. Therefore not all pieces will be needed for a specific application. Same can go for other "kits".

Thanks Junkyard Dog & Chipper

Hence why I always ask before I assume !! Always doing Homewrk is what I say, just learning.

You bet and glad to help out!

!! YEAH !!

Just got home and guess what was on my porch ?? A UPS Box from The Filling Station !! Now to open up and check out the Merchandise, and ponder the work ahead :)

Cool!

That's one nice, clean engine bay! Got any pictures of the other side? I'd like to look at the vacuum connection coming off the manifold. :-)

Jim

Just for Jim,
shot of the other side

Manifold Side of Engine

And thank you very much. I got questions but I'll start a new thread.

Jim

Ok, No Problem...

About the gasket that goes aroung the Push Rod Cover. I took some time and looked at mine, it is saturated (looks like with oil) and wondering if it should be replaced. Also noticed that they used some kind of silicone (clear stuff) to aid in securing it to the actual cover. Also noticed that there was a layer of some orange rtv style sealant as well.

On the Engine/ block side it looks clean/ clear and smooth. it has been stripped and painted recently.

My thought is to remove the gasket, clean up the surface, replace existing gasket with a new gasket. In doing so should i use anything to secure the gasket to the cover or engine ?? On the cover i noticed it has some sort of indention or seal track, looks like a way to help seal the gasket to the engine. will have to get some pictures, monce i remove gasket and clean up surface.

Sounds like you need to replace the push rod cover gasket with a new gasket. I used a thin coat of black Permatex on the push rod cover before applying the gasket.

Thanks Junkyard Dog, on the Black Permatex, which one? Assuming 82180 based on the Permatex Site Info:

81158 Permatex® Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant
General-purpose, black RTV indoor/outdoor sealant. Seals, bonds, repairs, mends and secures glass, metal, plastics, fabric, vinyl and weather-stripping and vinyl tops. Protects and repairs electrical wiring. May be applied to horizontal or vertical surfaces. Waterproof and flexible. Handles a temperature range of -75°F - 450°F and resists oil, water, weather, vibration and grease.

Suggested Applications: Windshields, door frames, electrical connections, seams and roofs, vinyl tops, weather stripping (Not recommended for engine gasket applications)
OR

82180 Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
OEM specified. For dealership warranty requirements, ensures extended drivetrain warranty compliance. Fast-curing formula. Sensor safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets. Retains high flexibility and oil resistance properties through use of an adhesion system. Handles temperatures ranging from -65°F to 500°F intermittent and resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, differential covers

Or could you go with/ Use:

80016 Permatex® Form-A-Gasket No. 2 Sealant
Slow-drying, nonhardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for simple disassembly if required. Handles temperatures ranging from -65°F to 400°F and resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion.

Suggested Applications: Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets

I use Permatex No. 2. It is brown not black. Don't use silicone if I can help it.

I don't use RTV.