VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1930 Engine, 1st Start

I'm hoping to start my engine for the first time and would like some advice.
The engine was rebuilt in '08 and has never had oil in it. I sprayed some Marvel Mistery oil in the spark plug holes, let it sit for a week and then turned it over with the hand crank. I know the valves have to be set close to specs but then final set with the engine running. I have some experienced help coming but want to here from anyone out there that has any tips on what I should be doing with this engine in particular. And if anyone knows the correct plug gap for champ. c-16's I'd be greatfull.
Thanks in advance.

Verd

It is best to lubricate everything you can before starting the engine. If assembly lube was used when the engine was put together it may not be necessary to take out the distributor and rotate the oil pump (for a minute or more after oil pressure is measured) to fill the main bearing reservoirs and troughs. I would still recommend it to be sure those parts have oil when they begin to rotate. That way you know the oil pump will be working. Also squirting oil onto the valve train parts and down the push rods (to lube the lifters) is a good idea.

Check the ignition system. Take off the distributor cap, remove the center wire to the coil, operate the points manually with the coil wire end 3/8 - 1/2" from a ground. You should get a spark that will jump the gap and make a sharp "snap" sound. If not open the points (or put a piece of paper between the contacts) and short across the points with a screwdriver. If you get a better spark, clean or replace the points. If still not "snappy" spark, check to be sure the condenser case is grounded. If still not "snappy" check the coil wire and terminal ends to be sure they are clean and fully seated. If no spark check to be sure that you have 6 volts at the positive post on the coil. You should also have 6 volts on the negative post with the points open (much less with points closed). Check inside of distributor cap, rotor, make sure spark plug wires are firmly seated.

If distributor has been removed and there is any doubt that it is still timed correctly, rotate the engine so # 1 piston is at the top and on firing stroke. Position the rotor to point toward the # 1 spark plug wire and have the points just beginning to open. That will get the timing close enough for the engine to run. Once running you can reset to max idle speed or use timing light. Make sure that the distributor is full seated into the oil pump every time it is replaced.

When starting rotate the starter until oil pressure is noted before switching on the ignition. Only choke in short pulls.

The Champion D-16 (think C-16 is typo) plugs or any other plugs can be set on the stock setting of 0.025" or up to 0.040". Timing can be 12 deg. advanced or up to 18 deg. advance with wider spark plug gap.

The spark plug gap of .040" and the timing at 18 degrees does not seem to work as well with the aftermarket D-16 spark plugs as it does with the correct AC spark plugs. Those settings are what is recommended for the correct AC C-86 or AC C-87 spark plugs. With the D-16 spark plugs you might have to play around with the spark plug gap and the timing to get the best performance.

Thanks Chipper and JYD, that's exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for. I think I'll just get some of the original type plugs and then I can stick with original specs. I'll let you know how I make out, looks like it will be next weekend.
Thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions.

Verd

Verd,
FYI, the AC C86 or C87 plugs are not original type plugs. They are modern replacements. G or G-14 are. I have used Champion D-16, Autolite 386 and the AC plugs in my '31 or '32 Chevrolets. Never could tell much difference in performance but never tried a scientific type test to evaluate them either. Anecdotal information is worth just what you paid for it. Controlled scientific based tests and information does have some positive value. I currently have Autolite 386 plugs gapped to 0.040" in the Boss's '31 Fire Truck. Runs liked a raped ape (well maybe not that fast as it is ~ 5500 lbs).

Ok, let me come clean here. I'm not much of a mechanic, I'm good at doing maintainance and I'm almost anal about greasing, oil changes, checking tire pressure and everything else to make sure my cars are dependable. I have a Model T and a Model A both on the road and drive them almost dailey, my cars don't gather any moss.I'm not very good at fine tuning and points and valve setting confuse me so I call in my friends who are much better at that than I am. So I want to be able to gap my plugs at one setting, points at one setting, valves also. I'm just not bright enough to figure out anything on my own.
I thank you all once again.

Verd

The standard spark plug gap is 0.025" for your engine. Point gap @ 0.018" (thickness of business card if you are on the side of the road). Timing 12 deg. advance. Plug wires are solid metal cored. The engine should start and run well with those settings. My recommendation is start there with the plugs and points you have. Get it to run well before messing with timing, plug gap, etc.

It will likely run better with 2-4 deg. advanced timing and wider gaped spark plugs (up to ~ 0.040"). Modern replacement plugs, condenser, coil (except for some made in China) will likely perform better than older original or replacement parts.

Thank you Chipper.

Verd