VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Antifreeze change interval

How often do you folks replace the antifreeze in your cars. When I bought my 48 3 years ago I flushed the cooling system, put in fresh antifreeze, and a can of water pump lube. Wondering if its time to do it again?


Regards:
Oldengineer

Through the years I have been changing it every 3 or 4 years on my cars.

Probably couldn't hurt...Don't know why you'd use water pump lube...The bearings are sealed...Or they should be...Depending on the winter weather has a lot to do with how much anti-freeze to use...You don't want to crack a head or block...Other than that, go with distilled water/a pint of "Water Wetter" and some 140,000 mile anti-freeze for corrosion and the "anti-freezing" properties...

The water pump lube is to lubricate the seal and not the bearing. When the seal is "too good" it can squeak. With modern anti-freeze a rust inhibitor is not needed or recommend.I use a 50/50 mixture.

You've got me confused about the rust inhibitor part...Unless your referring to the "water wetter"...I don't recall the label mentioning that...On the other hand, I thought the pump lube was a water emulsifiable lubricant...

I like Gene's recommendation about water pump lube and 50/50 antifreeze. I have had a squeaky pump and the pump lube cured it. I also use distilled water when I use straight antifreeze at a 50/50 measure.

You should check with your manual on the recommended tightness of the radiator belt. Mine (1941) calls for one and a half inches of finger depression. This is to protect the bearings in both the generator and water pump. Modern belt tightness is more like half an inch, which are old engines can not tolerate. This might also be a good time to lube your generator, starter, and distributor. A good time also to check oil levels in the rear end, transmission, steering box, engine, shocks, and don't forget brake fluid recommendations. I guess in some parts of the country it must be spring!!!
Have a good day, Mike

When you consider using a water pump lube also be advised that the soluble oils in them can reduce heat transfer inside the engine. It will not result in an increase in coolant temperature (may even be a reduction) as more heat exits by the exhaust and surrounding air flow.

All things being equal a higher measured coolant temperature can result in more heat exiting through the radiator, better cooling internal engine parts. Read the article in the April G&D by Lee and Dave Folsum. It discusses the heat eliminated by the radiator accurately. Ignore the confusing comment by the editor.

Thanks Guys:

I'll give her another flush and coolant change this Summer. My main concern is - I still can't get any coolant to come out of the petcock on side of the the engine block. So I know my engine still has some crap in her cooling jackets.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Try removing the petcock assembly completely...Perhaps even get a new one...I'd try using some engine block/radiator flush before hand...

With the petcock out you can do some serious cleaning with a wire or section of speedometer cable.

Yes,

Get the petcock out and use something, as suggester, to clear it. Then fill the block with a continuos supply of water and using an air compressor (setting on high pressure) nozzle, reverse flush the block. Take the thermostat out first. Do the same for the radiator at the bottom outlet. Flush (reverse) from the bottom.

Good luck,
Charlie

Caution: Using chemical clean out (flush material) will loosen rust and other crap. Guess where the most restricted place is for it to be captured? Yep, the top of the radiator flues.

Although, there are many testimonials for the stuff, I don't recommend using commercial cooling system cleaners. That's a job for the re-builder's tank. If you do use it, flush the block and the radiator shortly thereafter.

Same problem. Going to try the petcock removal on my '49.

Hey...! I was going to suggest the air compressor thingy, too. Maybe hold a rag over the hole to help from keeping the air from escaping... In years pass I used to use compressed air over the oil cap to aid in getting all the old oil out, when doing oil changes...Don't laugh...You'd be surprised at the extra old oil that keeps coming out of the drain plug hole...

To keep the crud from blocking the radiator tubes, I'm afraid you may have to just "bite the bullet" and remove the radiator for "good" flush...I just did that on the Toyota FL ( with the muratic acid ) and you wouldn't believe the stuff that came out...Be sure to use baking soda to neutralize the clean water flush afterwards, though...And don't use it as an engine flush...Boy 'o boy, you should how clean at radiator is...! I just used some rubber gloves and rubber bands to block the in and outlet holes while the flush sat...Don't breath the fumes neither....!

Ok - I'll try it. Think I better soak the threads on the petcock for a couple of days with blaster before I try to unscrew it. Looks like it hasn't been touched for years. I'd really hate for it to break off. Is there any way to run a wire through it w/o taking it out?

Regards:
Oldengineer

I don't think so. So, be careful removing the petcock. You will be amazed what will come out of that hole.

I suspect I'll get a bunch of goop out. Now - if I can just get the petcock out!


Regards:
Oldengineer

I wouldn't worry about removal all of the peacock that much...Use a "line wrench" with a good rap from a ball-peen...A stubby ball-peen...Might be be hard to swing...Or use what Charlie uses... An old river rock...Be sure to put it back behind the tire when your done...He uses them as "chalk blocks" and what not... lol

Kevin:

No problem - I'll just give the wrench a little tap with a big old brick. I'm sure Charlie would approve. The brick's way older than my car is.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Now, don't be tearing up the patio just for some 'o brick...Charlie would probably be happy to send you one of his...

Yes, use a line wrench. Some blaster should help.

If you have a new petcock to put back in, just break the wings off and use a box end. If you round it off use a pair of non-straight jaw vise grips, If that fails use an extractor. If that fails, attach everything to another block.

The crud you get out of the block will be rusty looking, Blow back until it becomes clear. That's all you can do.

Good luck,
Charlie

BTW: I am aware of and annoyed by all the negative references to my tools. One of these days I intend to get me a good non-bounce-back ball-peen hammer. Do too! I'm a-runnin' out of suitable brick-bats. Am too!

And, in the meantime I'm a-taking names and a-looking for some good smooth, flat, slick river rocks suitable for my sling. Maybe some day I'm meet up with one of you smart alecks with your stacks of tool boxes full of "Snap-ons. Think of David and Goliath. Oh, yeah! Just kidding.

"A picture is worth a thousand words." I have used both flushing methods. Using a coat hanger as a probe in the petcock hole is very important. It keeps debris from plugging it. I also use a hanger to probe the cylinder wall area underneath the water pump inlets on the block. I think you will find a buildup of several inches of debris there. I keep picking at it until I hit solid metal with only straight air or water coming out of the petcock hole. The better the angles you get with your probe the more you will get out.

I have a petcock that is designed so the middle opener unscrews, then you take a socket and unscrew the plug it is mounted in. I took it out of a 47, 216 block.

I think that any block being rebuilt should have its freeze plugs removed for a through cleaning. The head should also be cleaned. I took about an hour blowing out a head that came back from the machine shop after being hot tanked. Boy did it look nice and clean and like new. But where was all the debris going to end up? Any time you have an over heating problem I would check the engine along with the radiator. Good luck, Mike

Charlie:

Don't feel bad. I don't have any of them fancy tools either. A lot of mine are the "Snap-off" brand - from Harbor Freight. I'll let you know if I manage to get the old petcock out without bustin it off. I do have a secret weapon if I need it - I'll put my 308 pound son on the other end of the wrench.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Wow. that's one mighty pile 'o stuff you got out'a that block...Kinda cheat'in removing in the block to do it...I thought we where referring to a simple in vehicle "flush"...

No offence Mike, But I thought we'd agreed to stop calling them "freeze plugs" and use the proper term "core plugs"...Just ribb'in ya buddy...Man, did you make a mess...You aren't married are you...? lol ...Nice "Engine cart", by the way...We should all be so lucky...Bet your wife was out of town...

Hi Kevin,

I am a very lucky guy and she is a very lucky girl. We have been happily married 43 years on the 24th. We spend about 6 hours a day with unsupervised time to pursue our own interests and hobbies. We trust each others' judgments on what we spend on our hobbies and have never micromanaged each other. We each worked hard as teachers for 30+ years and now like to set our own schedules and priorities instead of living by the bells. Life is too short to not live it to the fullest. We have lost friends and family members far too soon, who never got to do anything but work. We go to sleep at night with big dreams and awake each day to try and fulfill our interests and be caring and helpful to those around us.

Best wishes, Mike and Carol

Dear Mike and Carol...Your story of a long and happy marriage along now with so much "unsupervised" free time really made my morning...Sounds like a match made in heaven...! Wishing you a long and wonderful life...

Best Regards from your fellow member, Kevin

P.S. Still trying to figure out who's the "luckier"...You or Carol...