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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hello all!
I am new the this forum, and this is my first post. I own a 41 Chevy Special Deluxe town sedan that I recently put new wheel cylinders on.
It has new shoes and the drums have been turned. I have not replaced any hoses or lines yet, or haven't done anything to the MC.
Once I got all the new wheel cylinders on, I bled the brakes like 3 times, and when you go out to the car and push on the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor the first time, but will pump up.
I had to back the car out of the shop the other day, and as I pulled it back in and hit the brakes, the left front brake seemed like it was the only one working.
Liked to threw me through the windshield! So, now that it's almost April, and the car shows are right around the corner, I need to get myself into gear and get the brakes working properly.
I thought I would start by replacing the brake hoses, and then inspect the MC to make sure neither of the 2 holes are plugged. I know that the brake lines can look good from the outside, but be defective on the inside.
So, I may need to replace them as well, but will start with the two things I mentioned first. So, looking to get some thoughts from you all, please.
Also, the left rear wheel brakes are dragging, and I think it's the emergency brake adjustment.
Thanks in advance!
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ChatMaster - 4,000
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WELCOME. You're at the right place. Great information on this forum. 
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you!! How the heck do you see the most recent post? Any other forum I have been on shows the most recent on page one. Maybe I just need to get familiar with this one!
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Did you bleed in the right sequence. For a 1941-1948 it is left rear, left front, right rear and right front last.
Gene Schneider
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most recent post is at the bottom of each sub section title in the (37-42) area.
Last edited by wawuzit; 03/23/13 10:56 PM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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No, I apparently didn't. I was taught to start with the farthest one away from the MC first, then second farthest, etc. So, I normally start with the RR, then LR then RF, they LF.
Appreciate you sharing the sequence. I will start with that.
Last edited by jughead; 03/23/13 11:02 PM.
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Funny, I was taught to start with the closest WC - LF, RF, LR & RR. I've been doing it wrong (but successfully) for 60 years! I'm beginning to think it doesn't matter as long as you get all the air out. Now, I'm too old to change.
Welcome! You've come to the right place for assistance. These folks are great and really know 'bout these ol' Chevies. (I ain't been here very long.)
Last edited by Gaither; 03/24/13 12:37 AM.
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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The MC will be a good place to restart your work on the brakes. At some point you need to spend some quality time on adjusting the brake shoes. If you have the service manual it will provide specific instructions for the adjustment, but basically you will need to adjust each shoe until it locks the wheel, then back each shoe out about 5~6 clicks. At that point the wheel should turn freely. If the brakes are adjusted and bleed correctly the pedal will have resistance even after it sitting for a while. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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I would also check to make sure that the rod going into the master cylinder is adjusted.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks everyone, for your replies. I agree with the importance of making sure to get all the air out.
I don't think there is any air in the system, what I think is happening is that there is a small leak somewhere up front in the system and possibly plugged holes in the MC. As soon as winter decides to leave and it's nice enough to open the shop doors, I am getting to work!
I have also spent some quality time with adjustment, and adjust them up just the way mentioned. Will go back around the car though and ensure all is right.
I bought this car back in July, and some work had already been done on the brakes but not all the work.
Never had a hose go bad on an old Chevy yet and owned many over my 50 years but I do know that on newer Chevy pick ups around 1989 to 90's (somewhere along those years) the front brake hoses went bad and it was the inside that was the issue, which caused problems.
So, going to replace them, blow all the lines out, check the MC, and if needed, I will replace it. I am not 100% leaning on the MC being bad though because the pedal did not go to the floor on the first pump, then pump up prior to WC replacement.
Anyway, work will be starting and I will report back to all as to what I find out.
Thanks very much!
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If the shoes are not adjusted it will feel like there is still air,if it still has the original hoses its probably time for replacment.
VCCA #45194
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The sequence I posted is from the shop manual and is the longest to the shortest believe it or not.
Gene Schneider
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The distance is from the MC is measured through the lines. The outlet from the MC goes to the right and links up at inside the right (passenger side) frame, thence to the front and rear. Accordingly, Gene's sequence is correct. It is the distance the brake pressure must negotiate that counts not the most direct linear distance from the MC. Charlie 
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks all, much appreciated!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Well, I spent the better part of the day working on the brakes on my 41. I replaced the front brake hoses, but did not replace the rear one because it looked like it was pretty new.
Also, did not replace the MC, it appears to have been replaced not long ago as well.
Chevgene and Antique Mechanic, I want to especially thank you for your direction. I feel silly because I thought I had the brakes tightened up pretty good, but it turned out I didn't! So, Antique Mechanic, you were right on sir!
I adjusted them up again, and this time the car stops great, and the pedal don't go to the floor the first time it is pushed.
I don't know how I missed this obvious problem. I have owned lots of old Chevy cars and trucks with drum brakes and have done quite a bit of brake work, but I sure missed this one!
Anyway, a BIG THANKS to all who threw out great mechanical direction. Thank You!!
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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A really good lookin' '41 Chevy!!!
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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JH, I'm happy for you that you got the brakes correctly functioning. Sometimes we can miss the most obvious things in repairing our old Chevrolets. Been there, done that. Congratulations on having a 41, too! It looks great. None of that old, antiquated, and obsolete stuff such as running boards and annoying stick shift in the floor. I could go further but you get the picture and in order to save owners of other years their supply barf bags, I'll not "pile it on." Best, Charlie BTW: I notice a little red paint where it's not supposed to be, save for your call, that is. The grooves in the chrome above grille are painted black and there is no red paint or any other color in the grooves in the grille surround pieces or the bumper guards. Again, you're the owner and can do what you want. I'm just pointing this out in case you didn't know. Nothing more.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 50 |
Hey Charlie!
Thanks for the compliments on my car, and for pointing out the red paint where it's not supposed to be. I guess the PO did that because I didn't. He owned the car for a long time and did most of the work on it.
Thanks!!!
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