VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Looking at a 33 Sedan

The reason I have a 1936 made in the last half of the year (half year model change) is the steel "Safety" doors (not wood frame) and steel door post, the rear is wood. I think that is the best of both worlds.... wood and steel. My '36 truck still has the wooden door post, but steel "safety" doors and steel "safety" cab frame. 1937's are all steel no wood. So, I have worked with both steel and wood. You have to choose a hobby area that you like. These Old Chevy's give us a rare chance at going into an era of time when wood and steel came together or all wood or all steel. We are so lucky to have a choice. So, if you like the '30's it is your choice.

I agree that for me at least the wood was more of a challenge than the engine and mechanicals on my 33 coupe because I am not a wood craftsman. But, I got it done. It needed new wood sills and cross members, new door hinge posts, dash support, all top wood, and much of the door wood. I made my own, some of it with not much for a pattern. But it was fun and a challenge. The engine I found for it was stuck and 2 cylinders had to be sleeved because of deep pitting. It was all fun and very satisfying to get it on the road. It has been on the road since the year I got it and that was 1979. It is all how bad you want to do it. On the other hand, I have a general class ham radio license and I don't even try to fix that stuff. Like I said, It is all in how bad you want to do it!

Thanks to all of you for offering opinions and ideas. Lucky for me to find this site. I reached out, you guys reached back.

There was some chat about how I have nothing to gain by getting this baby going or that I'm perhaps wasting my time or working for free.

Some background. I've been dealing with the wife of the owner. He was working in Tower 1 in the WTC when the first plane hit. He had the presence of mind to leave his building and the good luck not to return to it. He survived that day only to lose a battle with leukemia five or six years later. So this is a woman, his wife, in her mid 60's that has decided to sell the car.

I'm not a dealer, just an interested car guy. If I eventually get it unglued or even get it running and someone else buys it the next day, I ain't gonna feel bad about it. I figure I did a good deed for a complete stranger. And in the process I learned a little bit about a 1933 Chevy and found a great forum here.

But I haven't given up just yet! I was talking with a local engine rebuilder and he suggested his magic elixir. He mixes 1/2 ATF with 1/2 lacquer thinner followed by 2 days of rest.

When I go back I'm gonna snake a small wire into the cylinders to determine if something is nesting in there. If so, then I think the head would have to come off and that'll be it for me.

Thanks again boys.

Sent you a PM

Nic, we didn't know the circumstances you just described. You are right and at least some of us were wrong. We thought is was a typical "trying to unload an ol' car" situation. You are a good person attempting to help a lady who needs help.

Try a mix of 50/50 ATF and Acetone in the cylinders. Let 'er soak a day and dose it again to sit another day or so. In actual tests, this mix far exceeded the results of many popular penetrating oils. Then, if it were me (and it isn't) with the spark plugs out, I'd put the tranny in high (3rd) and gently try to rock the car back and forth by hand. If you keep repeating this process, you'll get it to turn.

Good luck!

Back at ya'.

Well I applied an elixir of 1/2 ATF and 1/2 lacquer thinner to each cylinder. Gonna wait a few days and give it another go.

On 4 of the cylinders I could hear the liquid dripping down to the pan (I think). On 2 I didn't hear that.

I should have poked around with a small ground wire and seen if there was any nesting material in any of the cylinders. That'll be next.

Been back a few times.

Poked around the cylinders thru the plug holes and found no evidence of mouse "nesting" material.
Removed the valve cover and ran some elixir down the rods.
Poured some more ATF/Lacq_thinner and waited a week.

Put an extension in the hand crank for leverage. No luck.
More rocking to and fro. No luck.
The thing that's bugging me is that the owner swears that the car was backed in the garage about 2 years ago and left alone. I realize that these results point to a seized engine but the chain of events don't seem to fit.

It's getting to be a personal challenge now.

Since the plugs are out and the valve cover is off, have you also removed the side pan to see the valve lifters and push rods? Are you sure the clutch is disengaged when trying to hand crank? With the valve cover off have you tried tapping on each rocker arm to see if the valves are not seized? (That was my cars problem and with stuck valves nothing moved). (I used every kind of spray on rust buster on each valve stem and with a wood block and hammer, tapped tapped tapped and sprayed until they got loose. Once that worked the engine turned over freely)

Jeff

My freeing (car in neutral)of my engine was a mouse nest on the fly wheel. It was made from the cotton off of the seats inside. Mice can be ingenious little devils. Remove the dust cover from under the car near clutch (it is only two bolts). Look with drop light in that area to see. It can be something as simple as that. Good luck...

Sounds like you have not tried the method I mentioned earlier, "rocking" the car in gear will not do it and could damage the drivetrain. Just get underneath and pry the flywheel back and forth using a small pry-bar or big screwdriver on the ring gear. All you have to do is get it to budge just a little, then work it back and forth until you can get it to turn all around. If this doesn't work you'll have to disassemble the engine; don't keep pulling it around in gear.

Well, I was back at it yesterday.

I removed the starter and gently tried to move the flywheel with a pry bar (trans in neutral). No luck there.

Then I jacked her up and removed the flywheel cover. No indication of rodent nests. I was able to get some decent purchase with the pry bar again but the damn thing wouldn't budge. I mean like nothing.

Smells like I'm at the end of the line.

If you can't get the engine to move with pry bar on flywheel teeth, pull the pan and head and have a visual look to see what is keeping the crankshaft from moving. If the main bearings are the problem the crankshaft will not easily forward and back with a gentle tap. If the crank taps forward and back then try tapping on the rod caps. They all should move back and forth. If all that seems loose then it is most likely pistons, rings, cylinder walls. Check the cylinder walls that you can see for any sign of rusting, deposit buildup. Light tapping with hammer handle can quickly identify the problem cylinder(s). If it sounds solid then add some ATF (mixed with small amount of Acetone is even better) and let it soak a while. Light tapping and more soaking will help get the lube to and between the parts. If you can't get it to break free in a few days then might as well take the engine out and work on it. Good luck.

All very good advice. However, before pulling the head/pan, you might follow Jaw33's suggestion to make sure the valves are not stuck. If that isn't it, I'm betting on stuck pistons. But then, what do I know?

Chipper is right (as usual). Acetone works far better than thinner.

Keep after it. You'll beat it yet!

If it turns out to be major, I'll make you a good deal on my rebuilt 216.

Good luck - -