|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
OP
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306 |
Before I install my pushrod cover and oil pan I would like to test my oil pump and oil line fittings. All are new and were replaced with my engine rebuild. I know about using my electric drill and a shaft of an old distributor to activate the pump. I am not concerned about determining the oil pressure just that the pump does pump oil up to the rocker assembly. Can I just fill the oil pan with 5 quarts of oil, loosely tighten the oil pan without its gaskets and test it? Is this a bad idea because it may squirt oil on my crankshaft which is all prelubed with break in lubricant as is my rocker assembly? I don't want to have painted the engine, installed the pushrod cover, etc., and fine I have a problem???
I have no experience with this so please lead the way! Thanks, Mike
P.S. I assume I am to run the drill clockwise???
Last edited by Mike Buller; 03/15/13 06:15 PM.
Mike 41 Chevy
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,136
ChatMaster - 3,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,136 |
Gee , Mike...I'd a little more concerned with you getting enough sleep at night than worrying about pump and fittings...I would have the confidence that you did a good job and leave it at that...What do the rest of you guys think of Mike's fine work...?
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21 |
Mike, Your pump will deliver oil to your rocker assembly. It is made of a bunch of gears confined in a close place. The erl therein has no place else to go but up. So, it will pump. The water pump will pump, also. You can count on it. Just put that critter together and fire it up . Everything will be fine. Will too! I think Kevin is right: We think you worry too much. You may want to make sure that each dipper is scooping just the optimum amount of oil from the troughs, though. A molecule less oil than they should pickup on each pass could spell the difference in the engine lasting 60,000 miles and it only lasting 59,999.9 miles. Now that is something to lie awake at night a-worring about. Mercy!  Good luck and all, Charlie 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 258
Backyard Mechanic
|
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 258 |
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Was the pump removed from a running engine?
The only things I would worry about is if the pump cover was removed was the correct thickness gasket used for replacement and is the sliding relief valve free to move. Those pumps never gave any problems.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
|
OP
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306 |
Hi Gene, please tell me if this is the pump cover and behind it is the sliding relief valve? On page 160 of the 41 manual the gasket placement on the valve is discussed as being very important. I do have two gaskets, one on each side of the valve, so I am assuming all is okay? Should I just install the pushrod cover and oil pan or test the valve? How do you test the valve? ![[Linked Image from i1321.photobucket.com]](http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/41chevymike/IMG_0012_zpse39c85be.jpg)
Mike 41 Chevy
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
That is the pressure regulator valve. It splits the oil between the high and low pressure lines. The high pressure goes to the main bearings. The low pressure goes to the rod trough pipes and rocker arms. The gasket I am refering to is on the oil pump its self.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
|
OP
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306 |
Thanks, Gene, I will look for the gasket when I have the engine on a revolving engine stand and am finally installing the gasket. You didn't tell me how to check the valve. Is there a way or should I assume it is okay. So looking at the above posted advice I should ignore testing the pump and lines for leaks,etc.?
Thanks, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The valve is spring loaded and is held into the pump via a drive pin - see exploded view in the parts book. I believe it can be moved by going through the pump main feed fitting hole which is in line with it,
Note that the parts book shows the pump cover gasket should be replaced only with a genuine Chevrolet gasket to insure proper thickness. In measuring a Chevrolet gasket years back I seem to remember it was .009" thick.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
I prefer to drive the oil pump prior to starting a fresh engine if possible that way the system is fully primed at first start and not relying on the assembly lube to last long enough.
You could leave the distributor out until the last thing prior to starting though.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21 |
I prefer to install a new oil pump, lubricate the bearings and every other moving part during assembly, then button everything up except the valve cover and get the timing as close as possible. Then using a squirt can, I liberally douse everything in the rocker and push rod area with Marvel Mystery oil (it is light enough to go everywhere and will serve until the oil gets there in a few seconds) and I then fire her up. I do not pre-oil the system. If the pump is not going to work as designed and instantly (immediately) begin forcing oil to the system then all the pre-oiling in the world is not going to matter. A few revolutions is all that it takes for the oil from the pump to trace the lines and channels and in that very short time no parts are going to suffer meaningful damage, if any. Pre-oiling is a waste of time when an engine is properly assembled. It may make you feel better but it is an unnecessary step. Just the way I think and, thus, my opinion. Charlie P.S. I have my helmet on and am a-standing by for "incoming." Remember you can't prove a negative so any testament to the value of "pre-lubricating' the engine by spinning the oil pump with a drill is hopeless. It will be just an opinion. Nothing more.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I agree with the above. I fill the con. rod oil troughs with oil to speed things up in that area. Also spin the engine over with the spark plugs removed so as to fill the oil passages. The main get oil with in a few seconds . Thats why I would break-in with 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil as the thin when cold oil will get thrown up on to the cylinder walls faster. Also keep the RPM's up to get the oil mist flying around.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294 |
I prefer to install a new oil pump, lubricate the bearings and every other moving part during assembly, then button everything up except the valve cover and get the timing as close as possible. Then using a squirt can, I liberally douse everything in the rocker and push rod area with Marvel Mystery oil (it is light enough to go everywhere and will serve until the oil gets there in a few seconds) and I then fire her up. I do not pre-oil the system. If the pump is not going to work as designed and instantly (immediately) begin forcing oil to the system then all the pre-oiling in the world is not going to matter. A few revolutions is all that it takes for the oil from the pump to trace the lines and channels and in that very short time no parts are going to suffer meaningful damage, if any. Pre-oiling is a waste of time when an engine is properly assembled. It may make you feel better but it is an unnecessary step. Just the way I think and, thus, my opinion. Charlie P.S. I have my helmet on and am a-standing by for "incoming." Remember you can't prove a negative so any testament to the value of "pre-lubricating' the engine by spinning the oil pump with a drill is hopeless. It will be just an opinion. Nothing more. I also agree. I raced 250 six's,big blocks and small blocks. Just assemble,start up,re-torque head and head for the track.
Last edited by chevy1937; 03/19/13 06:56 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
If this is turning into a breaking-in discussion then some words should be said about how to treat a new camshaft.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I would use the method provided by Chevrolet in 1958. It was basically dipping the base of the lifter into General Motors Engine Oil Supplement which at that time was a detergent and engine break-in lube. The remaing amount would be added to the oil. It was to be left in the engine for at least 1000 miles to insure proper cam break-in. They never mentioned runnning the engine at a higher RPM for a period of time.
The cam lube is not that important on a straight 6 Cyl. engine as it is located along side of the crankshaft and get plenty of oil thrown on it. The 8 Cyl. cam sits above and is not exposed to the oil splash because the block casting cover the area.
The 6 Cyl. has weaker valve springs and there is not as much load on the cam/lifter area.
The 8 Cyl. usually has a higher cam lift and stronger valve springs.
There are some cams and lifters sold today of questionable quality that need all the help they can get.
The common story is the rebuilder installed a new cam and lifters. A lobe wore off and the oil is blamed where it is actually the poor hardening of the parts that caused the problem.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
