VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Transmission gears worn?

Hello Charlie,
many Thanks for your offer. Can you tell me via PM your adress, where to pick up the trannsmission?
I have to see first how to arrange it and what it costs me. About 500 I mean?
During the Time a picture with open cover would be helpful.
You don´t deliver? do you deliver inside USA?

Regards André

Andre,

I sent you a PM.

Charlie

Frank,

No. Just close.

Andre.

I opened up the 40 transmission. There is some etching on the sliding gear and the second gear. The others look good. See pics.

It's a toss-up as to whether it is worth shipping or not.

What exactly do you need? That may be a better repair plan, that is, to merely acquire the worn parts without duplicating what you don't need. Like the case, etc. That will also lighten the weight.

The transmission is still free. Your call.

[img]http://[/img] Charlie
[img]http://[IMG]http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/CharlesMHill/DSCN1728_zps2294fd3d.jpg[/img][/img] [img]http://[IMG]http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/CharlesMHill/DSCN1727_zpsee5021b0.jpg[/img][/img]

Hello,
here is an Update. I´ve dissasembled my Box yesterday to 70%. Most gears are in good condition. The cluster gear and the second/reverse gear i need definitely. The Bushing in the Cluster gear comes out as shavings to the hole you can see in the gear.
But, how can i get out the countershaft and the idler shaft? Should i drive it out with the metall cover on the right (clutch) side? And how can i get out the rear bearing, i only see one end of the lock ring? At the time i don´t see any other parts broken. The front bearing has some clearance when i push up and down the shaft. But i get a new one anyway.
And the case is damaged. A upper mounting tab is broken off, probably by vibration of the propeller shaft caused by defective universal joint

Andre

I´ve found the time do disassemble the last parts. You can see the pictures here with comments
Transmission Inventory
What happend to the contershaft bushings? What do you think about the synchronizer ring condition?

I wonder what caused the pitting? Was it sitting with water in it for years?

What are you going to do about the broken mounting ear?

The pitting is from the metall shavings from the damaged bushing.
I will take the used case and some parts from charlie

That is interesting. It was grinding those bits up. This is educational for me, thanks.

Hi,
Case and gears from Charlie arrived and the transmission is on the way to be finished today. At the moment at least i´ve installed the flange with the gear for the speedometer. Interestingly the speedometer driven gear from charlie doesn´t fit with my flange - the toothing is not compatible!
Urgent for me, is to know if it is correct that the flange has clearance although the cap screw is tightened?
Will the clearance fix, when the u-joint and drive shaft is installed?

I believe you are correct...I've never seen "shavings" leave "pits" like that...Unless it was left for years and moisture added to the corrosion...Besides wasn't it flecks of brass...? It could not have caused the "pitting" in the first place...I'm sticking with H2O corrosion...

Excuse me, thought you were referring to the pitting on the gear surfaces...

No idea? I do not understand why, because I have everything back as it was so assembled.
The sleeve is definitely too short, the flange has game. Will measure the length and compare it with the parts catalog.
Otherwise, I have to make a longer sleeve. Should be no problem, the U-joint Yoke on the Axle Shaft is displaceable. What do you think?

The 1940 speedometer gears are not the same as the 1941-1948. Can't mix the two years.

Gene,

As can be seen in the picture I posted earlier in this thread, the transmission is a 40 (rearward location of the speedometer pickup). The case number checked out as well. I left the speedometer gear in place. Accordingly, I can't understand why the gear won't fit his 40.

I'm plum puzzled.

Charlie

Hi,
the speedometer gear is changed and not really a problem.
However the play between sleeve and Flange troubled me. Don´t know why??
The washer is installed, Main shaft is the old one, Second gear the used one from Charlie. The sleeve is roundabout 0,196 inch too short

See the pictures in my album
Sleeve Compare with the old sleeve and the new one in comparison.
Only Option.., is it possible that the Second gear from Charlie is shorter than my original? Can not be?

Is that a problem, that the U-Joint sits 2inch more towards to the rear axle?? I don´t want to reassamble the tranny again. The function is really good and the gears switch clean

I'm sorry but I just don't know the answer. I hope someone else will.
Charlie

Hi,
no problem, but can you please measure your sleeve?

Today i dissembled the Tranny again, the Problem don´t let me sleep.
What should i say, can´t imagine what is going on there. Nothing to see, nothing forgotten. The Second Gear from Charlie has the same dimensions like mine?!
Only Option,...Charlie, can you please measure the retained mainshaft at the marked positions (or anyone else who have a 1940 mainshaft)
Guess, that there was a mistake in the earlier time by assembling in Argentina.

In the G&D magazine there's a listing of experts than can be contacted for help or hire. Just an idea.

Sorry, the commas in the Drawing are not correct. Must be 4,2965 inch and 1,9 inch

Here are some pictures of 1940 Chev syncro-mesh transmission repairing. I'm not experienced on transmissions.
Maybe your case is shorter than a 1940 case.
Maybe the rear bearing LOCK RING is not staying in position in the case and bearing grooves, letting the bearing & shaft move to the rear.

The Tranny is now back in car, but there are new problems. When installing the universal joint, I noticed that the drive shaft is out of alignment.
Therefore, it has also knocked out the old universal joint. The drive shaft is located on one side of the universal joint. Look at the pictures. I have tried jacked and with car on wheels, allways the same. What can I do so that the drive shaft is aligned, can i open the U-Clamps from the springs and fix it?
Something strange, when I had the car jacked up and the drive shaft was connected to the gear, I wanted to turn the shaft by rotating wheels. Gear is in Neutral. But nothing happened, the wheels turned around but the shaft was rotated only sometimes.
When i turn the u-joint by hand the wheels rotate?!
Is this a problem or have I a mistake in reasoning?

When you turn the wheel,you must somehow hold the other wheel from turning in order for the universal to turn.

Maybe raise the car and put jack stands under the frame rails and then the rear end can hang free. You can also look at the shackles for the leaf springs and make sure nothing is bent. If all looks good I would measure the wheel base on each side and see if the rear end is square, go from center of front wheel to center of rear wheel. Couple ideas that come to mind. Good Luck. Don

With both rear wheels off the ground, when one is rotated the other will rotate the opposite direction. Only when one wheel is held will the drive shaft rotate with rotating the other wheel.

It may be necessary to straighten the torque tube. There is a procedure in the Service News. Essentially it involves heating the outer tube and applying pressure to move the tube sideways until it aligns perfectly with the transmission. Take an accurate measurement from an identical point on each backing plate or outboard point on the rear end housing to the front of the torque tube. If these measurements are identical then the problem is elsewhere. If not the same then the torque tube is bent.

There are several other possibilities for the problem. Bent frame, uneven wear in suspension parts, bent suspension parts, springs not properly installed or one spring not correct are among them.

Andre.

Owing to the distance from the rear housing to the u-joint it is not uncommon for the torque tube to favor one side or another. You should be able to push it over with your hand. Accordingly, the ball will take care of aligning it up. I wouldn't worry about it.

If you can't move it over by hand, the check to see if the rear housing is free to seek its neutral position. Sometimes when it's sitting on jack stands it will be out of position and resist going to neutral. Either put the rear wheels on the ground or put a jack under the rear center so it can seek.

Good luck with it.

Charlie