VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 '40 Special Deluxe, torque tube-clutch-u-joint

I'm getting ready to dig into my '40 Special Deluxe. I know that I need to replace the gaskets/seals for the torque tube ball. I'm going to order the Filling Station #FS125 for that. I am also going to order the #FS101 U-joint kit and will use if needed and also ordering the BA-30 U-joint locks with bolts. I don't have a hoist so I will be putting the car on jack stands. Any tips on the best location on the frame for the stands? I know that I don't want them under the rear end. Wondering if anybody has any tips on taking the floor mat out? I know that a replacement is un-obtainable these days. I plan on pulling the transmission and clutch to have a look. I know that I'm getting close to the end of being able to adjust the clutch so it may be a good time to replace the disc. I also want to check the bushing for the driveshaft and if needed service it. Any advise would be appreciated and if I'm missing something give me a heads up
Thanks
Don

One suggestion would be to read and understand throughly the section in your 1940 shop manual regarding the clutch and transmission assembly before removing those units.

Don,

I highly recommend using truck jacks to work under your car. They extend to at least 24 inches, so plenty of room to do all your work. The extra money they cost is well worth the dependability and safety. I have always used the rear axle for supporting the rear end and right behind the firewall for the front end. I see no reason to not use the rear axle?

I don't see how you can check the drive shaft bushing visually. You can tell it is bad if you are feeling any vibration in the drive train through the floor of the car. A new universal joint will not compensate for a bad bushing. Likewise, bad or missing motor mounts will cause clutch, transmission, u-joint, or bushing problems.

I would review some of our chat topics that have covered what you want to do. It seems like we have been having a lot of discussion on replacing the drive shaft bushing with an Oakie bushing, etc.. Good luck, Mike

P.S. I always check the 46-48 Forum to see what they have discussed. It's the same drive train/motor, etc., if you are doing mechanical work?

Yup, got that covered JYD. Thanks though.
I'm looking for any information and tips from people who have done this project. I'm a 1962 model so most of my experience turning wrenches has been on newer stuff and as sad as it may be the guys that were turning wrenches on these older cars are long gone. Its not surprising that the number of young guys jumping into the hobby is on the downslide.
Thanks Mike, I've been doing some searching and I still have it in the back of my head that when dropping the torque tube the rear end should be left hanging and the car supported by stands on the frame. Seems to me that the torque tube can be a real bugger is the stands are on the housing.
Thanks
Don

Hi Don, I have removed transmissions many times and do all my servicing of the undercarriage of my car with the stands on the rear axle. The stands allow you to raise or lover the drive shaft tube without any instability. They also allow for jacking up the rear of the car a little higher. Good luck, Mike

So how does the axle housing rotate when it is resting on stands?

When my 37 still had its original rear end I put the stands under the housing and was still able to move the torque tube enough to remove the trans.

There is no problem rotating the axle. It moves the same as if there were no stands. To preserve my paint I put a wash cloth between the wash cloth and the stand. I have used this method since 2003 when I got my car and can see no harm. Maybe someone can let me know the harm incurred? Thanks, Mike

Since Sid and I are dealing with transmission work I thought we should re-visit the discussion on gasket installation on the torque tube that Don started. Maybe he could update us on his gasket installation, and others could contribute their experience.

I just assumed that the there was no movement of the torque ball so you just took a gasket from the gasket/seal kit, smeared it with sealer, tightened everything real tight, and you were good to go? That is probably why the half a dozen times I have had this apart it has always leaked and there are so many deep scratches on my ball. The light bulb has finally gone on so this time I want to install the torque tube ball correctly.

To justify my ignorance I will just say, "I never saw anything in the 41 manual." If there is something there someone please tell me! I stumbled onto the following article on The Filling Stations web site under the heading "Tech Articles." There are also other articles there worth checking out.

Thanks, Mike

Universal Ball Housing Adjustment
By Stephen Kassis

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Proper adjustment of the universal joint ball housing on closed driveline cars & trucks from 1929-1954 is critical for good operation. This type of joint, if improperly adjusted, may result in oil leakage if too loose, or drivetrain noise if too tight. Whenever the universal joint is opened for any service operation, or should a leak at this point be experienced, the adjustment should be performed with the ball joint collar oil seal (cork) removed. Attempted adjustment with this cork seal in place, whether new or old seal, will give a false adjustment.

The following procedure should be followed in making this adjustment:

On passenger cars or 1/2 ton pickups remove universal joint ball from torque tube and on 3/4 ton models, remove intermediate universal joint yoke and dust shield and then remove bearing support bracket and rubber cushion from propeller shaft housing.
Wash the universal ball thoroughly in cleaning solvent, then inspect it for roughness. If ball is rough, smooth up with fine emery paper or if deeply scored, replace it.
Using four new universal ball collar shims as a starting point, install universal ball and collar. Tighten the four attaching bolts to 8-12 ft. lbs. torque.
NOTE: Do not install ball joint collar oil seal (cork) at this time.
With attaching bolts tight, place both hands on the universal ball housing assembly at the end of the housing. If the assembly can be moved and is a snug fit, the torque ball is properly adjusted.
NOTE: If the ball housing assembly cannot be moved by hand or is too loose, remove the ball collar attaching bolts and remove shims to tighten or add shims to loosen until proper adjustment is secured.
Remove universal ball housing. Install new gaskets at the back of the retaining collar and the back of the ball housing. Hang the shims over the ball housing until ready to install the U-joint. Note: 1929-33 ball housings with a fixed seal at the back will require FS-4356 O-ring seal for replacement. To install use a screwdriver to remove any cork that remains between the two flat washers. Clean the housing. Lube and press the O-ring into the back of the housing between the two flat washers and install onto the torque tube.