VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1916-1922 - Model 490 Needed 490 4 button ignition switch

My 1916 Chevy ignition switch on button keeps popping out and shutting the engine off. I can hold it in and the ignition keeps running. I opened the box and saw that a contact is loose which may be the problem.
I would like to buy a different 4 button switch or send this off to get fixed.

Is the switch heating up? There is a thermostat control that kicks it off, if it gets hot.

Are you running the resistor on top of the coil? This could overload the ignition switch and cause it to "pop" out. It needs the resistor.

Loose or corroded contacts will heat and cause the switch to open.

My '17 490 has the original Connecticut coil. I do not see a resistor on top of the coil, but it appears that the top cap is removable. I have never had this cap off. Is there a resistor underneath this cap or should there be? Would be good to know for future reference.

Thanks,
Gary

I don't understand about the switch heating up. If it does what do I do then?

If a switch heats up it indicates a high resistance. It will be necessary to either clean the contacts or replace the switch. If nothing else get a good fire extinguisher. If the switch heats up enough you will need it.

We must not overlook the fact that the switch gets hot in order to break the connection to the ignition. It is the heat that makes the switch work.

I was driving Solan on April 1st and on the hilly road to Holmenkollen the engine suddenly stopped. I did not think it could be something else than dirt in the gas and perhaps a blocked nozzle in the carburetor. So in the meantime I rearranged the fuel line and put in an old glas fuel cleaner to have a closer look at what was going on and return to the original item.

On last Sunday we went to a meeting and after 25 km the engine shut down. No spitting or jerking but sudden stop just as it would be if I turned of the ignition. After short time we pulled Solan to a new start and drove 15 km more without trouble.

On the return to home near the same spot, the engine started spitting and jerking for some seconds, but we drove on.
After 35 km we got two more engine stops like the first that day, but after short time were able to start again and drive on home.

I am pretty sure this is no gas problem (as I thought before), as the glass only contain pure gas. But I have the feeling it is the ignition "knob" on the dash board making the fuss, by some kind of overheating the inductor = cutting the current = stopping the engine.

If so what do I do to clean or repair the inductor inside? Luckily I have an old book describing about that system and a friend running an electro business for cars. I think he could rewind the inductors if needed.

Can I check this to find the reason/failure (when it appears) by connecting a direct link between the battery and the coil, but without destroying the inductor(s) by doing so?

The ignition is one of the last systems on Solan we have not checked thoroughly yet, so it could very well be the bad guy".

I have a main current switch between the battery and the ignition, also closing the current to the starter. If the inductor becomes too hot (smoking/burning) I suppose I can immediately turn off the current by using the main switch??