VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Headlight switch nut size?

Let me try this again.

The "device" is in two distinct parts.

1. The pull rod which it attached to the dash

2. The actual switch itself

The two parts ,after being assembled,make a switching device.Seperately they do nothing.


Agree?

That's the way I see it anyway.

You were confusing me by saying that my pics only showed the "linkage rod" that makes the switch work when in fact the complete switch is pictured. You then posted a link to a switch on ebay noting that it's what the switch looks like, implying to me that my pics didn't show that part when in fact they do, just with the pull rod & knob as well. Re-reading it I think you can see where the confusion came in????

BTW I still haven't found a 1/4" nut anywhere on either my old switch or the new one. I don't believe the parts (bakelite & metal) were intended to separated. If yours was different I'd like to take a gander. Still have the pics on your computer?

More confusion - you have to remove that nut to remove the switch & that entire assembly IS the actual switch. Below is a different angle that I hope will clarify. Still no 1/4" nut to be seen.

Tiny, do you have to remove the knob and shaft first? Then remove the nut to take the assembly out of the dash?

The knob,escutcheon and shaft are one piece. The nut must be removed to remove the knob,secutcheon and shaft, when that assembley is removed the only thing holding the switch is the wireing.

The nut holds everything in place. It screws on to the collar that the shaft passes through. You put the collar/shaft/knob assembly through the dash then slide the switch assembly over the shaft/collar from the backside of the dash. When you tighten the nut it holds everything in place. Kind of a PITA IMHO.

You're gonna make me take that ashtray assembly out and take a photo.I've got a question. When you removed this part did the electrical black part of the switch face toward the drivers side or the passengers side?

Another thing..I only have two screws that are screwed into the switch. Lights and running lights. What are all the other screws going to? My wiring is not orginal.

Okay..I looked at the electrical print. Can you turn on JUST the dash lights? I can't.

The bakelite terminal block points toward the driver's side. I had to pull my cigarette lighter and drop the cowl vent support to get enough access to remove the nut. I could touch the nut through the ash tray opening but there wasn't enough clearance to allow a full length wrench to turn more than a couple of inches. I fixed that today by buying a cheap chinese 9/16" twelve point wrench at the pawn shop today to cut down. I'm going to cut a notch to allow it to slip over the shaft and onto the nut then I'm going to cut it to length to clear the ash tray surround. Hopefully going back together will be a lot easier.

The dash lights come on with the park and head lights. Stock wiring doesn't allow turning on just the dash lights. You can see on the wiring diagram the dash lights tie in to the tail light circuit which is hot when the park and main lights are on. There are five lugs on the switch with wire(s) connected to them.

Before and after.

I guess I'm gonna have to crawl under the dsah. I took the switch out to replace the pull rod but I didn't remove the vent handle or linkage. I need a photo, I'll do that in the near future.

I think the instructions are too easy. You must loosen the nut shown in the picture so you can disengage the switch from the lever. Then you can take the nut off and remove the switch.

Hay wawuzit, what is the relation between your last picture and removing the headlight switch?

Hate to disagree Ray but the nut must be removed completely to remove the lever. It also loosens the switch body from the dash.

Remove the nut and remove the switch. Helps to have very mobile fingers and good sense of feel.

My 38 MD switch is like Tinys, remove one big nut and the switch assy is ready to remove. No small nut on it. The switch does not separate from the bracket.

I wish I had seen this thread several days ago but I haven't been on the site in a while. Perhaps I could have saved 3 pages of used space. Tiny, I like your solution to the problem of getting the nut tightened - use a better nut! Back in the day, I ground a cheap open end wrench (don't recall the size) to the thickness of the original nut and as I recall, I also put a small bend in it so it would clear behind the dash better. However, that is long gone from my tool box. When I put in a new switch a couple of years ago, I just struggled with different pliers to get the nut tightened. Beamer

I had a small fire under the dash and I want to replace all the wiring, including the switch. It looks like a real pig to remove, and my 80 year old bones are not what they used to be.

Remove the ash tray delete or the ash receptacle if you have an ash tray. It opens up a more comfortable access hole.

It still looks like a mighty small place to get a wrench into. My thought is to remove the switch, replace it with a universal switch, which would be a lot easier to work with, and rewire the whole dash area.
Does anyone know what the letters S H and R mean?

S is the parking light terminal (S for safety???), H goes to the headlight dimmer switch and R runs to the tail light(s).

Also you can make a wrench that works fairly well by going to a pawn shop & buying a cheap 12 point 9/16" wrench. Cut a slot in the box end so it'll go over the switch shaft. Cut the open end off making the overall length 4". Now you can fit the wrench over the nut through the ash tray opening and the 12 point wrench allows enough "teeth" to grab the nut so you can get a bite on it without having to turn it a long ways. You'll still likely utter a few bad words since the stamped steel nut is VERY thin but it's far easier than trying to crawl under the dash. Below are a couple of pics of the wrench I modified. Make sure you cut the notch in the same place that I did so it'll slip over the switch shaft at the same angle you're reaching through the ash tray opening.

Tiny
Your idea of the spanner modification is good but with a "thin" nut you could also trim the edge down so that the box teeth are flush.
Tony

Excellent input Tony.

Thanks for that info. I'm even more tempted to install a universal switch just left of the instrument panel. Plenty of room there.

I am not trying to resurrect this old discussion, I am looking for some technical help. Tiny, your wiring diagram came from the tech sheets, one of 5 or so sheets of specs. I have the same for my 37, but the sheets are getting so old and grimy, I have trouble reading some of them. Trouble is, I cannot for the life of me figure out where I printed them from. Can anyone direct me to where I can download them again? Thanks for any help.

First thing that came to my mind, but I sure do not see it there. Anyone else have any ideas?