VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 engine oil weight and type

I've searched the site for info on this topic but did not see anything specific to this question.
I wanted to ask if anyone has long term experience with detergent versus non-detergent oil use in the 216. I have used non-detergent 30 weight in summer but have recently been told that the detergent/multigrade oils are just as acceptable in these engines. Before making a change I wanted to ask for some input from the experts.
Thanks for any help offered.

I have used nothing but 10W-30 detergent oil in all of my cars.Thats what keeps an engine clean.Detergent will not loosen sludge as is commonly said...it may slowly disolve some but changing the oil removes it.If the engine is a little "loose" #30 detergent also can be used.The most important thing is to change the oil.I prefer to change mine in the fall -reason-to prevent the "dirt" from setteling in the bottom of the pan during the long winter nap.
The advantage of 10W-30 also is it circulates faster in a cold engine due to being the viscosity of #10 when cold.Also the anti wear, anti-friction and anti foaming additive package adds extra benefits.

Gene:

Thanks. I asked because I'm changing the oil for the fall season and wanted to get away from the straight 30 weight. Based on your input I'll go with 10W-30 detergent oil and add a bottle of slick 50 at the same time. I've run the slick 50 in my model A roadster and it makes a significant difference. Should perform the same for me in the Chevy.
Thanks again for your help.

Funny why you didn't come across anything. I thought there has been discussion on this before, with the consensus being that, if it's a rebuild or at least a clean engine, detergent oil is fine. Perhaps I'm confusing "shop talk" with "Chevy Chatter".

Is "Slick 50" the same as good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil?

Ed:

I'm no expert on slick 50 but, I've used it in this car for the last 10 years and it seems to quiet the engine down a bit and ease friction. I don't add it at every oil change but I generally see that my cars get a quart at least once a year. I will also add a few ounces of marvel mystery oil to crankcase and fuel tank about once every three months. I can't swear that this does any good, but it certainly hasn't caused any harm.

Modern oils have their own additive packages and therefore I do not use additives in my cars.Sorry-but if I were to use an additive Slick 50 would not be the one.Also adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase will be unecessary with 10W-30.I do used a heavy concentration of it in my gas before putting the cars away for the winter.Also never start the engines till spring and the driving season arrives.

Chevgene is right. There is no need to use anything other than a good grade of 10W-30 in these older cars and I would be wary of using any of these super concentrated additive packages and especially Slick 50. This one has colloidal teflon in it and despite their claims to the contrary, these colloids DO coagulate and can clog oil lines, etc. Matter of fact the company that makes Slick 50 recently paid some heavy duty fines for false advertising. We used to call these Super additives "Mouse Milk" in the lubricant industry.

:rolleyes:
DocB

Tom, I have seen Slick 50 used in cars and aircraft engines since the late 70s, I never used any but some pilots and drivers swear by it, I call it a "Makes you feel good additive" sometimes that is a good morale booster, don't know about it plugging lines but anything is possible, I ,like Gene, use Marvel Mystery oil as an upper lube, and it has a pleasant smell that I like, Yum! Yum!

from earlier this year:

oil


epi

Chevgene, epi, DocB, MrMack:

Thanks guys. Guess I've put too much faith into slick 50s advertising.
I drive my 39 MD sedan year round but, far less often during winter. They throw salt on the roads here in Jersey, so it never leaves the garage unless we have a cool dry day with no salted roads since the last good rain. Same for the Model A roadster, except I need a warm day for that one.
Not sure why my initial search didn't find the message traffic from last year concerning oil. I'll try to figure out how to do a better search.
MrMack referred to aircraft additives. I too have an aviation background. I'm now in my 37th year in Army Aviation. Took my initial training out in Mineral Wells, TX in 1968. Began flying helicopters with the Ghost Riders, Co A, 158th Avn Bn, 101st Airborn Div. (Viet Nam, 1969-70). Always enjoyed North TX, nice people.
Thanks once again to all for your help and support.

I do not find motor oil additives to provide any better protection from friction and contamination than timely changes of high quality multi-grade oil. You should avoid leaving the oil till it turns black or shows any signs of moisture. I always use a full synthetic like Mobil 1 in all my internal combustion engine powered vehicles and tractors. The engines stay clean and sludge free, and the superior anti-friction, heat breakdown protection, and cold start protection is well worth the $4.00- $5.00 price per quart. When you consider the tremendous task that tiny oil molecules are expected to do in keeping highly stressed metal parts from failing, the use of superior type lubricants is well worth while if you want to keep a well built engine running at peak performance for a long time.

Tom, the people of North Texas think that Army Aviators are ok folks too. The last two years the Mineral Wells Swap meet has been held at the old air base about 12 miles West of Mineral Wells, maybe you could attend sometimes and meet some other VCCA folks.

I knew a guy that drained the oil out of his Cessna engine after treating it with Slick 50 and then flew the standard takeoff and landing pattern without any trouble, that is what I call "a believer" If it gives you satisfaction that is a good enough reason for me not to bad mouth the product.

How about STP?

STP is a "thickening" agent.Will change the viscosity #30 oil to #40 as an example.Would never use it in a good engine.May help quiet a worn engine - but then just dump in #40 oil.

MrMack,

Actually, that's an old trick - a dog and pony show. Some advertising company did that (drained the oil out in mid flight and then circled a couple times and landed) with an oil additive I developed for a company in Cleveland. I was really proud of that until I found out later that this will work with any good, fully formulated oil. That really rained on my parade.

Doc

A dog and pony show it is. I have seen the demo done with almost any additive I can think of on several vehicles and airplanes including a Viper.

It would be more enticing and interesting IF they would give you a written warrenty covering engine replacements for 10 years or 300,000 miles.

In 1951 I had just rebuilt the 216 in my 38, the Rislone rep came to the service station where I worked and was busy telling every one that if you added a quart of Rislone to the engine and then drained it you could drive to the coast and back (about 120 miles) I offered to try it with the new engine and got a real firm no, and a nasty look from my boss.

Guys:

Thanks for the additional input. I changed the oil to Havoline 10W-30 this morning (no additives). Wife and I then took a 60 mile cruise through the South Jersey Pine Barrens to enjoy the fall foliage and visit her parents. The car performed very well. Engine was smooth and quiet and actually seemed to accelerate better, with a bit less ping.
Anyway, thanks again to all for the valuable insights concerning oil and additives for these engines. I feel far better about my choice of lubricants since this exchange of ideas. You guys are great.

I have used havoline 10 w 30 in my 216 since I rebuilt it about 1000 miles ago and she runs smoothly also and doesnt use any so far