VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 1930-32 Electrolock

i have an original 1931 Chevy used electrolock has 4 terminals on side 2 per side. the key works it but not click left-click right, just like spring loaded no detent so key springs right back when release...no matter what position key is in, can't get continuty bat-to-coil/gauge for power and allways have lower coil-to-ground connect....i can coax the pop-out with key out by depressing locking plunger but what is next step to dissasemble? any help appreciated....

The 1931 electrolock only has three terminals, not four. The fourth "terminal" that you see is actually a blind hole that connects to a ground tab on the inside of the electrolock.

When turning the key to the right and releasing, the key should spring back to the vertical position on it's own if the lock cylinder is working correctly.

Once the lock cylinder is removed, then you can remove the plunger assembly, the coil spring, and the flat washer (if your electrolock has one).

To remove the internal wire, you must remove the shrink ring that is on the base of the lock cylinder and plunger housing assembly and then remove the housing assembly and one terminal block. The other terminal block will remain because it is soldered to the internal wire.

The terminal stud retainer, the terminal stud, and the spring/brush wire all must be removed from the distributor end of the electrolock before the wire can be removed from the lock cylinder end of the electrolock. There is a solder terminal that is soldered to the internal wire that must be removed as well before the wire can be pulled from the front of the electrolock cable. After the wire is removed you can also remove the Bakelite insulating cylinder that is in the end of the electrolock cable.

Keep in mind that there are two fellows on this site that can restore your electrolock for you if needed.

I took some pixs i can send to anyones email if interested. When the 'pop-out' button is OUT, i can't remove the key. When the 'pop-out' button is IN, i can remove the key. I can't see anything behind the lock cylinder down in the barrel that would be engaged by/with the tang (that moves with the key turning) on the backside of the lock cylinder. Perhaps i am missing some parts here or perhaps i don't understand the sequence of motion here. If the key is supposed to spring back not toggle, i guess i don't understand the off/on positions.

Hi denson,

The electrolock switch is "on" when the button is out, and "off" when the button is in.

From page 13 of the 1930 Owner's Manual:

"To unlock the ignition, insert the key and turn to the right. The lock barrel will be extruded and thus close the ignition circuit. The key can not be withdrawn until the lock is locked."

If you have not yet obtained an Owner's Manual and a Shop Manual, they are both very worthwhile investments. The Filling Station carries both of them. (Part # DG-A31 for the Owner's Manual, and DG-118 for the Shop Manual)

Also, Junkyard Dog does electrolock repair work. I've had him rebuild a carb and a generator for me and can attest to the quality of workmanship.

Happy Motoring,

Dan

That is exactly how the lock cylinder is supposed to work.

There is a plunger behind the lock cylinder that engages with the contacts on the inside of the terminal blocks thus activating or deactivating the electrolock when the lock cylinder is unlocked or locked respectively.

Thanks all for setting me straight on the operation....The problem finally I figgured it out...the potmetal barell is shrunk with age so the plunger is stuck all the way in...i finally got it out then I reamed the inside of the barrel out with a 7/8" bit then a brake cyl hone. Now i find the long wire inside the armoured cable is fractured and there is no spring in the ferrule at the dist end. Truely this Electrolock would cost a fortune to get repaired professionally so i will keep working on it.

Can you restore my 1930 electrolock?

The Junk Yard Dog no longer posts on Chatter. He often reads the posts and continues to rebuild electrolocks as do I. Either of us can replace the center wire and other missing parts. So far the lock cylinders need to be functional as some of the lock parts are not currently available. I am working on getting some made but it is a slow process.

Do you want it restored to as new appearance or just restore its operation? Requires nickel plating some parts, zinc or cadmium plating others, as well as cleaning and painting the armored wire and replacing the yellow inspection mark.

The lock was working but the key broke and the other keys I had made years ago do not turn the cylinder. Other than that it was working fine.

Just the operation.

Did the key break due to the cylinder become hard to turn or to try to get it to turn? If the first it might be able to be made operational. If the second it likely will need to have so far unobtainable parts to repair it. There is a project to make some parts available but not yet.