Looking in my 1929-1930 Master parts list looks like I should have Flywheel Part No: 836363 and the one I have is Part No 836218 (see Pictures Above). If I recall Correctly there two (2) were different size clutches ??
Do I need to find Flywheel and Clutch Assembly Part No 836363 & Mating Parts ?? or will the 836218 Work, and what should I know and do for it to work. From My Research Looks like the 836363 is the correct part and applicable, was 836218 a replacement for the original ?? or ?? Seems liek from the Part No that it was an Earlier Version, or was it a Version just for the 1/2 Ton Pick up ??
What year does Part No 836218 Work on, or moreso what Year was it introduced/ Released ?? It does not show up in my 1929-1930 Master Parts List nor my 1929-1932 Master Parts List I have on hand.
Any insight and Help would be Greatly Appreciated. When I ge home tonight I am going to see if I can gather Part Numbers from the other Driveline COmponents Directly related to the Flywheel & Clutch Assembly. Anyone with Pictures of HOW the Assembly goes together, with what goes where would be GREATLY Appreciated. I have the Master Parts List & the Maintenance Guide, but looking for Actual Photos !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
The clutch pressure plate and clutch plate in the photos are not 1930 Chevy. The pressure plate should have four lever arms and corresponding slots in the throwout bearing plate. The three arm was 1932 and later. Same for the clutch plate with springs. Looks like someone changed those parts in the past.
As Chipper said, the clutch in the photos is not a 1930 issue.
Also, keep in mind that a casting number that appears on the various parts, such as the flywheel, is usually not the same number as the part number that is listed in the parts book.
I do think the bolts that secure the clutch originally had holes drilled through the bolt head perpendicular to the thread, then a wire was placed through and twisted and then proceeding to the next bolt head continuing the daisy chain until back to the original bolt completing the wiring. The purpose of this was to prevent the bolts once torqued to spec from loosening and falling out inside the bell housing and damaging the internal components. Jmm
1930 Chevrolet pressure plates did not use wired bolts. Fortunately they did use lock washers. The old question was "What is the difference between a Chevrolet and a Buick?" Ans. The Buick has lock washers.
I would not use the flywheel, pressure plate and the clutch disc that you have since they appear not to be correct for your 1930. The correct parts are out there so to save yourself a lot of grief down the road you should probably get the correct parts.
By the way, just curious, but didn't you mention awhile back that you were selling your canopy express?
I will tear it down and check for casting numbers on all the parts, and any other stampings.
What about the Clutch disc itself ??
Also will take some pictures of the Throw Out bearing and Fork. See what I have, and what i need.
As of now focused on the Frame and getting it primed, then painted. Next will be the suspension and steering components/ axles. haveto stay on track but research the next phase to stay on task and make sure i have what i need !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
First shots are of the Clutch Assembly in the box from Resto Shop, then a shot or two of the Clutch Throwout Bearing Sleeve, then shots of Clutch parts in my Misc Boxes.
Now could this be the Right Flywheel ?? and was paired with this Second Clutch Assembly Plate that I have in my Misc Box ?? Also noticed that on the First Clutch Disc is 10" and the Second one is 9".
Per Chippers comments, this look like the Clutch he remarked on ??
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
1- Clutch Disc Since I have a 1/2 Ton it should have a 9" clutch disc, which is what I found in the Scrap/ Misc Parts Box. Can you use and run the 10" Clutch Disc with Standard Pressure Plate & Flywheel ?? Pros and Cons ??
2- Pressure Plates Does NOT look like there are ANY numbers or marking on either Pressure Plate. Would like to find out what YEAR and Part Number I have on Hand, per the Pictures in my Post Above.
* Looks like the Pressure Plate and Clutch in the Box were ran together, based on the wear patterins in wach. I wonder if the Flywheel that is in the REstoration Parts was the original Flywheel, they cleaned up and got a new Clutch Disc and Cover/ Pressure Plate Assembly to build the NEWer Clutch Assembly that I have in the Pictures ??
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Hi All, With my motor out and the cab off of my ”˜29 LQ 1.5t truck, I thought it would be a good time to check into my clutch and transmission. I reviewed my Service News, ”˜29-’32 Repair Manual, and Aug 1930 and 1929-1941 Master Parts Price Lists. The Repair Manual indicates that trucks should use a 10” clutch disc, but the ”˜29-’41 Parts List specifies 9” for my LQ truck. Mine is 9”, but it appears to have moulded facing and not woven as the List specifies. The Service News describes different combinations of pressure plates and flywheels, but most of my parts are either not identified or have different part numbers than those specified in the SNs.
The attached DropBox link shows pics of my parts, part numbers, date codes, some discriptions and related ”˜29-’41 Part List info. My father-in-law said the truck was driveable in the late 1980’s, but the motor was frozen in 2015 when I got it. My expectation is to make the truck driveable again, but I do not expect to put it into serious truck service.
1.Based on the above, I am inclined to stick with the 9” disc. Its existing facing appears to be moulded and has .055 - .065” of remaining wear available. 1a. Should I re-face it? 1b. Should I re-face it with woven material?
2.If a 10” disc is recommended, how do I insure it will be compatible with my other parts?
Remember MOST of the numbers CAST in the parts are the CASTING numbers NOT Part numbers, sometimes a single CASTING number was MACHINED into various parts numbers. so don't worry about that.
also is your the LQ specific repair manual ??
in my 1929 Master Parts Price Lists (1929 ONLY) it only list a 9" clutch, but two type floating (which has a special flywheel & pressure plate with a counterbore) and a riveted clutch My understanding was that the 1.5 ton trucks used a 4 speed and 10" clutch setup (flywheel, clutch, & pressure plate)
and me for the cost, i would put in a new clutch to be safe. just in case that one has dried/hardened or been damaged in some way, done want to have to rip it all apart to replace it later. the clutch disc in my 1929 looked good, but was replaced anyways.
also count the splines in the clutch disc , mine has 10 splines, and approx 9" diameter, this is the 3 speed transmission on my 4door.
have the pressure plate and flywheel resurfaced.
based on the dates and marking on the flywheel and pressure plate, would have to say the flywheel was replaced somewhere along the line. being February 3, 1930, the pressure plate being September 23, 1929 may be original. and my flywheel and pressure plate are just over 9" dia, as the clutch disc covers the surface area. so looks like someone has been running the smaller clutch disc in the larger 10" setup. figure both work just not as much surface area on the clutch and wear the other out unevenly !!
Last edited by BearsFan315; 08/18/2107:14 PM.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
So there were at least three renditions of flywheel and pressure plate variations in 1929. I can not tell by the picture which one Bearsfan has. On the true 9" combination the 10" disc will not work because the recess inside the flywheel shoulder is only about 9-1/4" wide. If you do decide to resurface it, you must take the same amount of material off of the flywheel lip as you do the flywheel friction surface. That way the geometry of the pressure plate will remain the same. If the friction surfaces do not look blued and heat crazed I usually just use some sand paper on all the surfaces. These are not high heat heavy duty precision applications, just plain old cast iron. If you don't want it to grab too much put a 32 to 37 clutch disc in there with the spring type hub.
My Flywheel is only machined approx 9 1/4" inches dia or so, as you can see the clutch literally covers 95% of the machined area, only about 1/8" around the edge.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Thanks to all for your insights. My Repair Manual that specified 10" discs for trucks was not LQ specific, and was for yrs 29-32. Based on this, my other docs and your feedback, I'm concluding: The LQ was originally set up for 9". Subsequent models were changed to 10". At some point my LQ's Fly and P Plate were changed to their 10" versions. (My Fly does not have an internal shoulder and has a ~10" OD friction surface, as does the P Plate.) But the 9" disc was kept! I can run the 9" disc but will look for 10". (I just found a NORS disc for the 10" 837011 on ebay. But the description says 9" !?!?)
Regarding resurfacing... my machine shop resurfaced the Fly's friction surface and 'lip'. See pic for my understanding of the 'lip'. I'll confirm they took the same off of each. They also resurfaced the P Plate's friction surface.
Sure looks like you got it to me. Last thing to do would be to balance both units. Between the pressure plate alignment pins in the flywheel, and the pressure plate mounting bolts there is only one way it can be bolted together.
The 9" disc is much easier to find, and should work fine. In one of the manuals there is a section on re-establishing the "houdale" waves in the actual plate. Not sure I got that term right.
