Looks interesting may be worth a try. The point of there being spots in the engine that are not getting coolant to them is right especially in a non-pressurized system.
Their website is very informative and gives a very good review of the cooling system. While it may help cure your problem, I would suggest a cooling system check-up prior to installing.
I recommend everyone open the link http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm It is the site of a competitor so needs to be read with an understanding that not 100% is unbiased.
As I have written several times, the use of Evans non-aqueous coolant risks serious engine damage due to higher internal metal temperatures.
Hello Thank you all for reply, After reading the test of Evans waterless coolants,I think I will stay with the old water type. Mybe I need a new radiator. Best regards Arvid
Hi there Chipper, I have been reading the previous posts with great interest. I too have been having problems with my cooling system that I have documented elsewhere on this site.
I removed the radiator before Christmas and it is now cleaned out and ready to be refitted.
I have also purchased some special cooling system de-rusting compound from the following company, here in Australia. They have a very good reputation around the clubs for their products.
I will use this product in addition to the cleaning of the radiator.
AS a last resort, I had considered using the "waterless coolant", but will see what happens with plan A. Plan B is very costly so will wait as see how A turns out!
I spend may years working on coolants for one of the largest manufacturers in the world. We worked with all major automotive, truck and heavy equipment companies. Researched a multitude of cooling system and coolant options. Had the capability to supply the same coolant mixture that Evans does. I can assure you that water is by far the best coolant. Unfortunately it has too bad properties. One is it expands going from liquid to solid. That breaks things like cylinder heads and blocks. Adding a freeze point depressant helps. If the depressant is ethylene glycol then a 50% mixture makes a non-crystalline mush at very low temperatures and also inhibits the hydrogen bonding so the solid does not increase in volume. Second, water is a major component in rust and can accelerate corrosion, so inhibitors are used to protect metals such as iron, steel, brass, aluminum, solder and other cooling system materials. Despite claims by some people (who incidentally are trying to sell you their miracle product) water and water based coolants are still unsurpassed for our cars and trucks. If you doubt it contact your modern vehicle manufacturer and tell them you are going to switch to Evans Coolant. Then ask what it will do to the warranty? If it were truly better they would factory fill with it.
Just want to point out that just cleaning a radiator does not equate to maximum cooling.
I had a 1958 Chevy panel truck that had the original radiator. On a road trip, I had an overheating problem. I had one place flush the radiator, and then a radiator shop 'rod' the radiator, thus cleaning it out completely.
But alas, the old core just couldn't transfer heat well because the tubes separated from the fins.
I expect some response on Tuesday, today is a public holiday,(Australia day) and will keep you posted as to the result.
I expect the s..t to hit the fan on Tuesday and it will be interesting to see what liquidintelligendce have to say for themselves?
Maybe their product is the ultimate of all the extravagant claims floating about? The majority of the people employed by the company are industrial chemists and I did manage to chat to one several weeks ago about their rust removal product for the radiator, and found them to be very patient in explaining the properties of the magic potions they sell. We spoke for over 80 mins, a trunk call ....long distance...
look at these 2 links on Evans waterless coolant, and make you own mind up.
I received a reply from liquid-intelligence and they know about Evans and have a great respect for there products, for they are very similar in all regards.
I wont publish the letter because it may infringe some legal rights or something, but they say that the test results by Noroson are naturally biased towards their own products and reflect their own products in a better light.
Enough said, look at the youtube links and do as you see fit..
Hello Peter Thank you for interesting link on youtube. My question is. Are the one person who read this forum/post who have try waterless coolant in his old 1925 - 1933 Chevrolet? And can he tell us how waterless coolant have ruin the engine or not. And what about tempratur / boiling uphils / warm days? Best regards Arvid
hi there Arvid, thank you for your interest in this matter.
I too would like to find a person on this forum who has used either an "EVANS" product or the "liquieintelligence product".
I have been having enormous problems with my system overheating. Today, I spent all day installing the liquid intelligence system cleaning radiator solution. I followed the instruction to the letter, and it still boiled within 5 mins.
The engine became so hot that at one stage I thought that it was starting to "seize". yes it was very sluggish in turning over and I thought . "this is it", bugger...
Well the battery was getting discharged and I connected the charger and it gave it a bit of a boost after 20 mins, life was restored to my little patch of Australia... it burst into life again after a suitable cooling down period..
I pursued this method of cleaning for at least 3 hours, as per instructions,the system is now flushed, naturalised and flushed again. It still boils after 15 mins now , an improvement of 10 mins over the last test.
I did a test, recommended by my radiator man, invert a clear plastic bottle (1 litre) half full into the fully topped up radiator and run the engine. The test: if bubbles are coming up from the rad it "may" indicate that gas is present and it is coming from the combustion chambers in some form of other? My results: very small, very tiny bubbles came up and I did this test several times to get an average reading. The radiator man said, and I appreciate that he was guarding his own back , that no bubbles should be present. so I reversed the car back into the shed for further attention.. I am now complementing Pulling the head and seeing if the gasket is blown or possible the head has cracks that have mysteriously appeared?
Hi Again. I have change to Evans Waterless Coolants in my 28 Chevrolet. After about one months of driving in normal summer temperature, I can tell you.IT WORKS GREAT. No more "next to boiling". If I ruin my engine, I will let you know. But so far. I am very satisfied with Evans Waterless. Best regards Arvid
I wish you luck. You will need it! It is the internal engine temperatures that you can't see or even get a good indication of that will go up with the lower heat transfer coolant. Accelerated wear will be the result.
I researched this a while back before changing the fluid in my 28 Business Coupe. First I did two flushes with a radiator cleaner, then I put in the 'old green antifreeze". I read many people saying NOT to use any of the new or extended life coolants, but just the old stuff. The new fluids do things you don't know about on the surface, more than just temperature control, and will cause problems long term.
I'm not one to take a chance for the few bucks antifreeze costs, so I put two gallons of the green stuff in. Works well and my moto meter never shows any signs of overheating. I can change it every year for $10 and some time. Adding some rust preventative helps the cause. Not worth trying something new I know little about. Same goes for a lot of lubes and oils. Stick with the old tried and true, and even it is far better than what they had in 1928.
I have a 1919 Harley Davidson, 2 cylinder, 1000 ccm (air-cooled) I will take a test drive, use a IR temperature instrument and see the engine temperature on my 1919 HD and my 1928 Chevrolet.I am sure. The HD engines run at much higher temperature than a 1928 Chevrolet engine.How can a HD engine survive the heat? Both engines have cast iron cylinder/head, aluminum piston,and same type valves/valve seats. And the amount of oil in the HD Crankcase are only a few table-spoon.
My -28 engine run 6 to 8'C higher temperature than my friends -28 engines, drive the same test trip at the same time.
The engines will have been designed for the expected operating conditions based on experience and testing. That includes the amount of oil fed to various parts. Lifetime is based on the design (metallurgy, thickness, reinforcements, etc). Heating and cooling of the parts are a major factor in longevity.
It will take some time for any damage to surface. Most likely it will be just a higher wear rate and oil usage. However it can be more rapid (and catastrophic) if the expansion/contraction exceeds the capability of the metallurgy to absorb the stress.
Thank you for reply. I run a small trip with my Harley Davidson 1919 yesterday. Outside temp.was +15'C. After about 1 to 2 minutes idling, the temperature right behind the spark plug was 322.7'C. Over tree times above what a -28 head will have!!!
The Harley run better today or it done when I restored it in 1993 - twenty years ago.
So... I think I will sleep very well with a temperature increase 6 to 8'C from a water coolant to a waterless coolants in my 1928 Chevrolet engine.
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