Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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In stripping my Frame for prime & paint, I went to remove the brake rods, clevis, & pins on monday. I removed the carter pins, and then went to remove/ pull out the pins, however they would not come out easily. Thought they should jsut slide out, maybe with a little pursuasuve efforts. Any thoughts, suggestions ?? do not want to destroy or damage any parts.


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Pins should slide out easily. Try giving them a shot of penetrating oil. Probably gummed up with grease.


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You might try the heat-cool-heat- procedure.


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RAY


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

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I had a similar problem and the heat method works great. Just remember to be sure when going back, they must be free to move to avoid brake lock up.

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Thanks for the advice...


I will try some penetrating oil first see if that helps, if not will clean them up and then try the heat -cool -heat method. Dp not want a fire from the oil and heat !!
when you did this what did you use for the heat, and about how long/ much ?? I have a small propane torch which i bought for when i had to do some copper plumbing work. Or should i use something else ?? and if they are hard to get in and out, should i look at replacing the pins, or drill out the clevis and rod holes ??


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They should come out with a firm bang with a hammer, since they were only a snug fit to start with. If they are original, they are probably worn in the center and need replacing anyway. Most fastener shops carry a wide array of clevis pins, but I caution some are a touch longer than the others, such as on brake pedal shaft connection, emergency spring connection etc. And if you get new ones, get new cotter pins to match, but not too heavy duty as that makes them difficult to bend the forks.

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I used a gas welder, but a propane torch should work almost as well. A squirt with a water bottle takes care of the cold. If you decide to run a "chase" on the holes, be sure and test the new pins for fit.


Agrin devil


RAY


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http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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HI.
I use a heatgun for all stuck parts, sometimes combined with rust remover to ease things up a bit.
Using torches or alike in oiled areas seems a bit fire hazard to me.
Heatguns warms up to 150 C+ easily, more than enough.

Olle

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Light heat from a propane torch is what I used but no penetrating oil first as this can cause some unwanted flame up. My pins were worn a bit and I had to get a few new ones. The pins need to be a good fit. I used motorcycle chain lube on the clevis pins and on my cables. Stays put and is a bit water resistant. Good luck with your truck and stay with the folks here as they are the best.

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Awesome... Love the support and ideas i get here :)

I tried the hammer and knockingthem out, no avail !! so I will try the heat n cool method see if that does any good. Will let you guys know how that works, may be a few days before I get a chance to try.


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I used PB Blaster and rotated the pins until they came out. After that, I hot tanked and glassbeaded all the brake hardware and rodson the 34 Master I am restoring. JIM

Last edited by james_h; 01/24/13 02:10 PM. Reason: forgot information

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