VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Universal Joint

I have read the "oakie" postings. Now, to me is the question, should mine already have an Oakie? Then I guess I have a problem. Can i only just remove the rear axle tube to drive out the bushing to the front? Just unscrew and screw firmly back, with a new gasket? No adjustments to the Diff. Gears?

If you look in the shop manual I think you will see that it all has to come apart to drive out an Oakie bushing. If you remove the yoke, as original there would be two distinct bushings in the tube. The Oakie assembly has two bushings within the assembly. Also with the Oakie setup, there shouldn't be any brass dowels or pins holding the bushings in. The Oakie assembly is retained by an interference fit.

I have successfully done 2 okie bushing repairs. Both bushings came from Jim Carter. I will tell you what I did.

The first repair the bushing was 2mm oversize and I had to turn it down on a lathe. The second was a few thou undersize and I used some green (640) locktite to retain it . Quality control in the manufacture of the okie bushes was very poor.

To remove the front bush from the torque tube , I first removed the lock pin near the tip of the t/tube, it can be hard to see, it was about 8mm Dia and peened into the tube, I had to drill the first one out , a bit messy (especially laying under the truck) then turn a fresh pin to suit the hole left. The second pin was 180 degrees away from the first , that is , it was thru the top side of the t/tube .

After the pin is out, I used a slim punch to drive the front bushing forward several mm, (by driving the pin punch thru the lock pin hole), just enough to get the big grips onto it as it protruded from the t/tube , It was not too hard to wiggle the bushing out from there.

The okie has a seal at the rear end, this goes in first and the seal can be ruined easily if the d/shaft splines have very sharp edges from wearing out a bit. I used an oil stone to scrape the sharp edges off as best I could .

I made a bushing driver , it is hollow to go over the d/shaft and stepped to locate the bushing and protect the end face . I drive it in using a heavy copper hammer till the okie hits the original oil seal bush that was left in the t/tube. (we only removed the front bush). One of the okie bushes was flush with the housing , the other was 3mm protruding , I left it that way.

The lock pin I loctited in and did a little peening to ensure it would stay there .

Both trucks have done lots of service since then .

I hope this is of some help.

That is very helpful, thanks.
One question, in my opinion the original bushes are two. What did you do with the rear one? Let him inside? I read in the mounting instructions by Chevs that you can let it inside.
Why did you use a new pin, i thougt the oakie is pressed in, where should he go? Or just for safety? But there is no hole inside for the Pin.
Tomorrow i will go to the garage and test it.

Yes , I left the rear bushing in the t/tube .

I drilled a shallow hole in the loose okie bushing and used a pin along with the loctite to give me peace of mind that it was secure.

O.k I understand. Good Idea, because the original Fit was not the best
Can you or somebody else tell me something about the shape from my Pressure Plate and the Synch. rings? Change or not?

Can anyone tell me the inside and outside diameter from the bushing? And the diameter from the Axle Shaft, please.
My car is far away at the moment and i need the dimensions tonight.

If you look here Old Chevy Manuals I think you can find dimensions of the original bushings. I would try the oldest manual that still has your year.

Good idea,
i found it over number 3652601(front) Dimension is 1 5/16" ID and 1 3/16" Long