VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 I have to start over on building a 216 for my 41

I just recently completed rebuilding the engine in my 1941 Chevy Sedan. I've been tuning the engine today by adjusting timing and valves. While out test driving it around today, noticed what I thought the valves get really loud. Then the engine began to miss, pop, and crack. It then quit. I pulled off on side of the road, called my brother for help. We found the engine didn't appear to have compression. I called a tow truck to take it back to the garage. When I took the valve cover off, I found that a valve had dropped into cylinder #2. I found a few pieces but the rest of the valve is in the cylinder. I also found a valve on the #5 cylinder jammed all the way up and wouldnt move. I can only imagine what's going on inside the cylinders as I'm sure the dropped valve has probably knocked a hole in the piston and has probably scarred the cylinder walls. With this engine being bored to 0.60, I'm sure this block is shot unless I sleeve it. I happen to have another rebuildable block but after spending over $2,000 on this motor, it's kinda hard to swallow having to start over. It'll be a few days before I really learn and understand what went wrong. For now, I'll just keep feeling bad.

Check to see if the timing gear stripped. Does the rotor turn when the engine turns over? Are there bent push rods?
Sorry to hear about your problem. Keep us posted.

I haven't begun to really figure out what went wrong. But I do know that there are bent push rods. The timing gears are not fiber but new metal gears.

I would suspect the guides are too tight and the valves stuck in the guides when they got hot - or there is varnish on the stems from old gas.

I know it's not old gas or varnish. Everything is new and clean. I went through that a while back. That's why every part of the fuel system is new along with this rebuilt motor.

Brandon, I very much hope the damage is minimal.

Brandon, What a terrible setback! I hope you can come up with a logical sequence of what failed first and why? I am worried about my rebuild, as I'm sure some others are if they are not rebuilding these engines on a regular bases. I hope you have taken some pictures to share with us for opinions? I want to remind everyone that I used a Kanter kit for my rebuild and the valve springs were wrong, as well as the length of the push rods and pistons, and someday I will know if the rear seal leaks and the machine shop did a good job? I hope your block is okay and that if their is a problem with a cylinder wall you can resleeve it. Can you make a list of what you know did not cause the problem? Like it had good oil pressure, no cooling problems, no parts were loose or missing? Good luck, Mike

Brandon, very sorry to learn of your engine failure. It is a real kick in the head after you did your best to have everything just right. It is terrible! We all feel for you.

As bad as it seems, you may escape without cylinder wall damage. Hopefully, you can salvage most of your investment and just have to buy a few parts. We certainly hope so.

The bad part is taking the front end off AGAIN ! Nice paint job in danger?

251213604641 Ebay item number

Ready to bite the bullet and get it over with? grin Wish I had it. If I weren't so lazy I'd pull the front end off and buy it and a new clutch.

What did you find? That number doesn't work on ebay for me.

Had my engine in and out three times before it waS all said and done. Main thig is try not to get too frustrated. Maybe take a few days away. I know that feeling...............

It works for me

251213604641 Ebay item number

rebuilt engine

Sorry to read of your bad luck. I know too well how frustrating it can be . After installing my engine and getting it running I had to replace the rebuilt clutch disc as it would not release. It never seemed to break in as it started using oil and slight smoking. The end result was four loose wrist pins and a badly scored block which had to be sleeved. To top it off the machine shop would not stand behind their work(installed std pins when .005 over came out) so it was a battle over who would pay for what. Ended up splitting the $3000.00 second rebuild, but not on the friendliest of terms. If you installed aluminum pistons theres a good chance of the cylinders being ok. When you do get it apart be sure to clean out the oil passages etc so no hidden metal remains behind. Once you do get it running properly it will be all the more satisfying.

Strange - I still can't pull 251213604641 up on ebay! I even logged on and couldn't find it. 'Got my curiosity going. I like to keep up with what is "going on out there". I even searched "6 cyl Chevy engines" and didn't find that item (??)! 'Guess I ain't holding my mouth right.

Works for me also.

I was not impressed with the fact that the intake/exhaust ports and other openings were not covered for painting. It would make me wonder what other minor details were skipped.

New valves intake and exhaust

Steel valve seats for burning unleaded fuel

Remanufactured Valve Train and Rocker Shafts

New Hydraulic Lifters

New Camshaft

Remanufactured Cranshaft turned to a 10/10

Rods have been Reconditioned

New Pistions .060

New Rings

New Main & Rod Bearings

New Rear Main Seal

New Timing Gear set

New Front Crankshat seal

New Oil Pump

New Gasket Set

Head has been competely remanufactured and re-surfaced

Block has been bored and re-surfaced.

216 Front plate for installation into later model Chevrolet

New Thermostat 180 degrees

For your consideration, and I greatly value your time. This is a remanufactured 1958 Chevrolet 235 engine. The engine was rebuilt with the upmost attention to detail and tolerances. This engine has a 216 front plate for drop in installation in a 1939 through 1954 chevrolet where the egine monts at the front plate. The engine can be equiped with a new water pump with the standard shaft for a 1955 through 1962 , or a short shaft & pulley for a 1939 through 1954 with no modifications needed. The block Casting number is 3764476, and the head casting number is 3836848. I prefer local pick up, but will assist in placing the engine on a pallet for shipping arrangments made by the buyer. If you live local, I can complete the installation for a reasonable fee. The additional parts included are the beel housing and flywheel which will be installed once the engine is taken off the stand. This engine has been completely gone through with the following new parts

That's alot of new parts and a 6 month warranty. Of course if it gives a problem you can remove the entire front end AGAIN...and do something else.

The big question is will it leak oil. "Some" say they ALL leak oil. For $2200 hopefully those guys are wrong.

Apparently he is offering some type of warranty. What is interesting is that he does installations. Also, he has a seller rating of 100%. One complaint would spoil that number for quite a while.

As far as the search, I don't see how it can fail. Call up Ebay and plug the number into the search field with no other information. The search button will bring up the item.

Trying to do the work on a 60 year old engine by asking questions and getting someone local to help out might work and you might save a few bucks...on the other hand....it might not.

CA is a 5000 mile trip from TN. If I were standing there looking at it,I'd probably go for it.

The engine has a lot of new parts and if it were going into a 58 would be fine. This engine is basically a "long block", no manifolds,carb, electrics,distributor,or fuel pump. Also I believe it would require a new exhaust system for the 41. Determining what's wrong with the 41 engine would be a good place to start.

Now that my blood pressure is back down to normal and I've had some time to think about this frustrating situation, I've decided that I'm going to remove the hood, remove the radiator to cowling supports and remove the head from the engine while still in the car. I'm going to inspect for damage and decide what to do from there. If the cylinder walls are fine and I do need to change a piston, I can still do that with the engine in the car. I have access to a car lift so I can work from the bottom. The head will go back to the machine shop that did the valve job. For the moment, I'm going to take a few days away from my car and do some other things. I'll get back to it soon enough. Heck...I've only been working on the whole car for 16 years!

That sounds like a good plan, Brandon.

Thanks wawuzit - 'don't know why I couldn't pull it up.

Tempting, except for distance and freight. If it was here in Chattanooga, I have a '67 Saganaw 3-speed with overdrive I'd hang on the back of it. 'Like to have a 235.

That is less than I would take for my rebuilt 216 and a whole lot less than the PO spent on it.

Brandon, we all hate whatever caused your engine problems and whatever damage you have experienced. Have you had time and inclination to look into the matter and to see what may have caused it?